I want to visit Aksum from Lalibela in August 2016.

I had in mind the direct gravel road shown in the picture. According to Google maps this is 389kms.


Can anyone help me with a few questions?

What are the road conditions likely to be in August (rainy season)?

If you have done it roughly how long did it take you?

Can it be done in one long day (starting at sunrise, and not riding in the dark)?

Is it possible to wild camp along the northern part or any accommodation options?

Were you able to get petrol on the way or did you need to bring it with you?

From blogs i have read (e.g. Amsterdam to Anywhere, Slow Donkey - p.s. these have been an AMAZING help, thank you!) the preferred route seems to be via Mek'ele and Adigrat (and using only the southern half of this road). Is that a better option - if so why?

Any help really appreciated.

Cheers
Andy

In case anyone else is looking into this in future I have now found accommodation at Abiy Addi (www.mylominlodge.com).

Would still be interested to hear anyone's experiences of this road though - looks amazing on google earth!

We drove from Lalibella to Axum in November 2014 in dry weather in a day and several hours. We stopped in a garage and for photos on our way and finished early on day 1. So, in dry weather it is possible to do it in one day. The road was fairly decent but I do not know what it looks like during rains.

It is possible to wild camp but we preferred to camp in a hotel compound for a price of a dirty room 1-3 dollars a night. We used the room for its toilet only. I do not remember the name of the place but the following day we reached Axum in 3 hours (we were not a hurry).

I do not remember about the fuel, but I think there were some places on the way to fill in.

We did not go the other way. I think it is longer but the road is better. But you will need to double check it. Enjoy Ehiopia - one of the best African countries.

In November 2013, we did Gheralta Lodge near Hawzien to Lalibela in 10 hours. It is a long, rough ride, but beautiful. Recently, we know of others who did Mekele to Lalibela also in 10 hours. But we don't know about to Axum. We went Axum to Gheralta, and then Gheralta to Lalibela.

But if you have Tracks4Africa on your GPS - and you ought to - then some of these routes are on it (we put them on) and it might give you a clearer idea of timings. But this is rough, but beautiful country with many, many ups and downs which you definitely wouldn't want to do in a rush or in the dark.

Thanks both - looking forward to it :-)

Lalibela to Mekele in 8 hours in the wet...the last couple of hours in the dark...lots of fun...watch out for Hyenas! We had a Delorme InReach tracker with maps, plus Google Maps. They don't agree with each other but was easy enough to find our way!

The Danakil Depression | Vegan Without Frontiers

Are the previous respondents to your question 4wd-drivers or motorbikers? That makes a lot of difference. The road you suggested is pretty rough and there are virtually no facilities. Fuel is a problem in the whole of Ethiopia. I tried that road in 2010 but turned back because I met several people in 4wd's saying "no fuel". The road over Mekele is good, there are facilities, fuel too, interesting to ride and it takes two days. Of course you can always try. Ask locals about fuel situation. By the way: don't use offroad tyres. These are too soft for the very stony track!

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Voorbij de horizon / beyond the horizon: www.wonderfultravels.nl

Thanks - good info.

I am worried about fuel - do you know if gasoline is available in Lalibela (i gather lots of places have diesel only)? If so i should be able to carry enough to get to Aksum from there.

I am planning to fit Heidenau K60 (scout?) tyres for my trip.

Looking at the latest sat images it appears they may have tarred the bit from Abiy Addi north - i read on a blog somewhere they were starting this.

We were in a Land Rover Defender. Like most of Ethiopia, there are no facilities on this route once you have left Axum or Lalibela. Unlike motorbikes, we carried sufficient diesel to enable us to travel over 1,000 kms.

I'm thinking i might need to fit a bigger tank. IMS do a 10 US gallon version for the KLR660 which should give me around 600km range.

We travelled in 4x4 from Lalibella to Axum and did not have problem with fuel anywhere in Ethiopia or for that matter anywhere in Africa (I crossed 40 African countries on my way) except for three occasions
1. In Sierra Leone I ran out of cash and had to use one jerry can of spare fuel. So it was not a fuel availability issue. That was the only time I had to use a Jerry can in Africa.
2. In Nigeria there was a strike and long lines and fist fights at the Abuja fuel stations. As a foreigner I was given a privelage to get fuel without a queue at a minimal markup. I kept my jerrycans for emergency which never happened.
3. In Malawi we started a cross mountain trip with half empty tank and we were almost empty by the time we reached a fuel station. Plain stupidity as the best rule is to fill up regularly. I lost my jerrycans in Gabon, so I could not use one in Malawi.

The important thing is to be aware of emergency situations and this may happen in any African country with no notice.

I think the Lalibella - Axum road (the shorter and rougher one) was easy in the dry season and there are facilities on the way. Wef fixed a car in a garage on our way. At the end of day 1 my girlfriend had a medical emergency and I had to drive her to the nearest medical clinic which was only a hundred meters from our camping place. She received basic medical help and spent a night there. Interestingly the doctor refused to take any money from me except for medicines (£1-2). In a similar short term emergency in Israel I had to pay $500.

I believe that for absolute majority of issues on the road I found help from locals (either free or for a reasonable fee) within 15-30 minutes in different African countries. I feel less secure on the European roads.

Thanks - i assume your 4x4 is diesel? Did you notice what availability for gasoline was - i have read that many stations in Ethiopia only have diesel.

Also the range on my bike is around 200 miles. Would that change your view?

Hmmmmm, not sure the same courtesy would apply in the UK in the reverse scenario :-(

You are right, I use diesel, so I never paid attention to petrol. If you get into a situation without a fuel station or a fuel station without petro I would recommend to ask around. Locals often store fuel for sale in remote locations. I saw them selling petrol in Guinee Bissaru even by bottle.

200 miles is not a safe range in some African countries.

As to the UK, I am not sure people even stop if you break down, in Africa they will

Hi - yes, 4x4 Diesel...2x90l tanks so range of up to 1600km. 200 would be tricky many places I suspect? I remember passing through a couple of biggish places, but my only fuel related problem was getting Meths/Alcohol for my cooking stove all the way from Turkey to Kenya.

Thanks all - that gives me a good picture. My current plan is carry 2x5 litre fuel bladders - should five me range of 500kms give or take if I use them.

What routes are you riding Jmi?