Senegal - Diamma Update
Hello,
We crossed the border into Senegal at Diamma yesterday, here is some up to date info for anyone going this way.
Piste - It's easy and smooth all the way, few bumps and holes here and there, but really nothing. Perhaps a little trickier in a car, but on a bike it's a breeze.
Mauritanian border - About 10km before you reach the border there is a 'checkpoint' charging 5 euros per person 'park tax' for the National Park. We stood and negotiated for some time, but there seemed to be no reprieve. The receipt book was unfortunately empty and so a receipt could not be issued, though they assured us that other people had been given a receipt.
At the border, the police charged 10 euros per bike and 20 euros per car. This is double the previous rate and we were told it covers the 'overtime' rate for the police since the post is open 24 hours. Obviously this accommodates the well known 4am rush at Diamma!
The customs then charge 10 euros per rider/driver. We didn't crumble quickly to either of these demands and the Mauritanian officials became increasingly abrupt, receipts were available from both police and customs. It seemed neither charge was negotiable, maybe someone else has recent experience here too?
Finally we were asked to pay the communal tax for the village, which may or may not be real but since I'd already forked out 50 euros I'd had enough. The charge started at 5 euros per vehicle, then went to 3 euros, then 500UM, then finally 300UM per vehicle. The final amount then was small, but it felt like we were being taken for a ride so we waited it out for a while and they let us through with no payment.
Once through to the Senegal side, the bridge fee is 8 euros or 4000CFA per vehicle regardless of bike or car. The Senegalese police charge 10 euros per passport, nobody else asked us for money.
If you want some brief entertainment, make the bridge guy wait for his money, he locked the barrier and was purple with rage by the time we agreed to pay. Sorry if our obstinacy makes it difficult for any future travellers, but I figured if we gave up and paid everything at the first request it wouldn't help either.
A note about insurance, the Carte Brune insurance is available at the cafe at the Diamma post and is valid from Senegal to Nigeria inclusive. We paid 42.5 euros per motorbike for 2 months cover.
Hope this is useful.
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