There is a book written by an American, (fairly recently) who travelled up the river by public ferry and then bought a pirogue to paddle back down to Kinshasha with. (Sorry can't remember the title, but a thorough google should find it)
Good tale (although you get the distinct feeling it has been 'modified' for dramatic purposes!). He bottled out partway because of nerves and a sick guide.
Don't know the current situation apart from what I've read on the web, but I don't think anyone would describe that route as 'safe' at the moment.
Be interested to hear what you find out.
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