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Photo by Andy Miller, UK, Taking a rest, Jokulsarlon, Iceland

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Photo by Andy Miller, UK,
Taking a rest,
Jokulsarlon, Iceland



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  #16  
Old 27 Aug 2008
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Beddhist, I moved my fuel inlet pipe because I wasn’t able to run the 33 L Aqualine tank on reserve without doing so.

First, I would put the carb in a vise and let the connection point steep in Liquid Wrench or similar.

To actually move it, I put the inlet pipe in the vise and moved the full carb assembly. It’s important to have the pipe positioned precisely in the vise. You want the pipe/carb connection point as flush and tight as possible in the vise so that the force you exert cannot kink it.

It takes a LOT of force to move it – at least it did with mine. Finally, it gave just a bit. It’s easier after that.

I did it in about four sequences. Removed from vise, examined, and repeated the procedure until I had it where I wanted it (9 o'clock, which has worked fine). Now in one of the sequences I didn’t position the pipe/carb connection as flush and tight as possible in the vise (fiddling around with some rubber I was using to protect the pipe from the vise). It might have been off just 2 mm. That was enough to kink it just slightly, not a big deal but ! & lesson learned.

After this mod I can run the bike down to like a half liter of fuel, which is great. Good luck ~~
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  #17  
Old 28 Aug 2008
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On the carby inlet pipe. Rather than bend it around .. with the possiblity of damage (pipe or carby body) I simply cut the pipe where it begings bending ... dremel cut off wheel and time.

Ther will be an air vent for the fuel tank somewheres. With the tank at leat half empmty .. try running with the fuel cap loose .. if the problem, goes away you have identified the source...
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  #18  
Old 28 Aug 2008
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Thanks for the pointers, guys. I don't think I'll attempt the carb modification. I can run the 25l tank practically dry. I just have to switch to reserve immediately I think the bike MAY be starting to hesitate, especially if riding at highway speeds. Naturally, the cap is vented. There is some kind of valve in there that lets air in easily, but out not so easily. In any case, that can not cause the problem, as it would be worst with a full tank.

My bike was bought in the EU and did have the vacuum tap. The conection on the carb is plugged now, as the Acerbis tank has two normal taps.
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  #19  
Old 16 Feb 2009
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Replacement throttle sleeve
I just installed the Dual Star heated grips on my '07 recently. I tried removing the throttle grip from the throttle sleeve and ruined the sleeve. As it turns out, the stock sleeve has the grip glued to it. So, I ordered a Motion Pro throttle sleeve (MP Part #: 01-0093) from my local dealer, price $10, and was good to go. You can try removing the stock grip from the sleeve if you like, but $10 for a new sleeve is a deal!
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  #20  
Old 16 Feb 2009
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Going back to watt draaw and battery chargng:
I found this infomation on ADV relating to DR650 wattage traits. May explain the dead battery and 20W draw question earlier. I think a higher output stator would be a great help...

"With no additional load and headlight on high beam the DR650 will charge the battery at idle.

With an additional 50 watt load engine speed has to come up to 1900 rpm to get charging voltage back into positive territory.

An additional 60 watts load needed 2200 rpm

An additional 70 watts load needed 3200 rpm

With an additional 80 watts load the charging system could barely bring the battery voltage up to 12.5v even at 5000 rpm.

I'd say you should be pretty safe up to 60 or 70 watts. If you run the headlight on low beam and run an LED taillight bulb you could free up another 10 watts.

The DR really needs a higher output stator for serious adventure riding. I'd like to be able run additional lighting and heated grips and a heated vest. Looks like I could have more light or heat but definitely not both."

HTH
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  #21  
Old 16 Feb 2009
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This is pretty good advice!
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Last edited by mollydog; 25 Mar 2009 at 09:13.
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  #22  
Old 16 Feb 2009
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That stock rubber grip is a Bitch to get off! (as you found out!)
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Last edited by mollydog; 25 Mar 2009 at 09:13.
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  #23  
Old 17 Feb 2009
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Patrick,
Do you have pics of how you installed your switch to control your headlight. I like your idea and will try to attempt. I've got a datel volt meter, but am running heated jacket, with heated grips as well, so any saving without compromising safety is worth investing time in.
Daryll
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  #24  
Old 17 Feb 2009
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Might want to do this opposite of what I did?
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  #25  
Old 18 Feb 2009
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Thanks for the tips.
I've got a safari tank sitting in my study that needs to be installed as well. Slowly but surely.
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  #26  
Old 18 Feb 2009
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Ignore the wire, got trapped last time I had it off.
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