Right! Pre 1996 Suzuki Japan made at least 3 model variations going back into the late 1980's. A bit confusing for sure. (See Zenseeker : http://dr650.zenseeker.net/DR650History.htm )

In 1996 Suzuki introduced the DR650SE ... which pretty much superseded ALL previous DR models. And, far as I know ... is now the ONLY DR650 model in production save the Suzuki Freewind.

Nothing has changed with the bike since 1996. This means lots of cheap parts, owner and after market support available. The "new" (post '96) DR650SE was never imported to the UK. Some EU countries did import it for a while but stopped years ago. (not sure on exact years, country to country)

Australia and NZ both got the DR650SE all along, continue to import it today. And of course it continues for sale in the USA and Canada largely unchanged since 1996.

Starting 5 to 7 years ago, several S. American countries began importing the DR650 ... at first as Police bikes, but now are for sale with VERY high import tariff. (at least 100% ... or more)

Also, Suzuki now has an assembly plant in Colombia where several Suzuki models are put together. DL650 and DR650SE are two confirmed models, probably others as well.

DR650SE's were discontinued in UK and EU due to not meeting Euro zone pollution standards. (uses a Carb vs. F.I.) So far, American Suzuki have managed to lean out the DR650SE enough to pass our ever more stringent US EPA and California CARB smog regulations. But how much longer?

Suzuki claims to be working on an "ALL NEW" version of the DRZ400S.
When? No one is talking ATM.

Yeah you've got the older RS model, I had a German '93 650RSE model similar to yours, it was a good bike, but totally different to our post 96 650SE bikes. I racked up a lot of kms riding it all over Europe and even ragged the crap out of it around the Nürburgring quite a few times when I was living in Germany, before some F*&k#r stole it in the UK.

Watch the wheel and cush drive bearings as the factory ones are a bit weak, and the design is poor on the cush drive (like our SE bikes) I had a couple wear out in a few years, make sure they are well packed with grease, apart from that it was a pretty good bike, enjoy!

__________________
Cheers
Grif

'11 KTM 450 EXC
'09 Suzuki DR650
'00 Discovery Series 2 V8
'95 Defender 90 300 Tdi Overlander
http://gipperstravels.blogspot.ca

I'm not sure if this is still relevant..

I've travelled two up with my girlfriend from Cape Town to Ethiopia and had a few other East African trips as well.

I'll always go for the simplicity and comfort of the DR, with a Corbin and Alaska sheepskin it's the best RTW bike for me.

Al.

It's true ... a good quality wide seat truly transforms the DR650 ... I harp on this all the time ... you can't really judge the DR's two up ability fairly with the crap stock seat.

My leather Corbin shown below has seen 55,000 miles, done many 400 mile days, back to back to back. Remarkable really.

I've not done much two up, but when I've ridden with a "normal" sized pillion things get tight. But my girlfriend is just 5', 105 lbs. so she fits on there OK. I'm only 5'7", 185 lbs. Bigger folks will would need to extend the seat longer, onto the rear rack ... or ? :confused1:

The Corbin is firm but somehow works on a long day. Many other companies now offering good seat alternatives (or seat kits like Seat Concepts) for the DR650. Just a basic mod ... has to be done!

I have 2008 DR650 that I have been using as a backroads travel bike for just over 2 years now. In my opinion, riding a DR 2 up on a long trip would be similar to using a 250 solo - something that is becoming increasing popular as people realize that low cost, light weight, and simplicity are often more important then power.

Stock the DR is so-so, built to a budget (but at least built to a budget and priced accordingly!). However, as many have already pointed out there is fantastic aftermarket support for suspension, tanks, seats, etc. as the bike has been pretty much unchanged since 1996.

In my opinion, the DR would be a good 2 up choice for the following situations:

1. You and your back seat companion are relatively small and short. The DR is one of the few 'dirt bikes' with an accessible seat height, and can be easily lowered.
2. You are looking for a low cost starting point. Fuel economy is good, overall running costs are low. In North America these bikes are comparatively cheap new and used, and in general the tanks, seats, suspension mods required are affordable as well. I figure that a DR can be pretty well set up for travel (including suspension & luggage) for $2000-$3000 if you can install parts yourself, much less if you can live with the stock suspension - but IMO there are very few bikes with stock suspension that is up to an RTW trip, and I wouldn't consider the DR650 2 up without at least replacing springs front and rear.
3. Your intended riding terrain is rough and the ~100+ pounds that a GS800 or 1200 type bike adds will be more of a hindrance then the extra HP will be a help.

Personally, I like the DR650 because it is sized and priced like a 250 and I can manage it off road much better then I can taller/ heavier bikes. 99% of the time I don't miss the extra HP of a bigger bike, but I always appreciated the low weight.

Having said that If you and your partner are larger/ taller, a bigger bike will probably offer quite a bit more comfort and carrying capacity.

Good post!
But it's important to point out that "built to a budget" should not be misconstrued as "Cheap". The Suzuki's DR650 motor is one of the best ... if not THE best single cylinder motors ever built by anyone.

Hard to match it's utter simplicity combined with modern utility. Really quite impressive for a design from 1995. The SACS Air/Oil cooling system means the DR can go many thousands of hard miles with just minimal maintenance. It really can take a hammering. Trust me.

The "budget" part (as you've pointed out) is more reflected in the mid level suspension components. But at least Suzuki had the vision to use a nice, stout 43mm fork (Compare to other bikes out there today)
That KYB fork has potential and with valves & springs is not bad.

The rest is just plain old Good Japanese Quality and superior Design. As an example, compare electrics with any BMW single or KTM. The Suzuki is a simpler and more reliable design.

The chassis and rear sub frame is another stand out area. "Cheap" bikes don't get such good frames (like the KLR) ... I'd put the DR's frame and sub frame against BMW/KTM singles ridden loaded up on rough roads for 50,000 miles any day. There is Cheap and then there is Good Value!

"There is Cheap and then there is Good Value"

Agreed! Re-reading my post I certainly don't want to suggest that the DR is a poor bike, far from it. IMO it is the best choice out there for the type of riding I do, which is just about everything. Out of the crate it doesn't perform at the level of a more modern design like a KTM 690, but then it is almost half the price. Ironically, even a 690 needs work to be a decent travel bike.

The DR650 is a great starting point, and can be cost effectively developed into a very capable travel bike as long as you can work with ~40 HP and a 225 watt alternator. There are very few 'issues' (NSU switch, rear drive seal, upper chain roller, soft springs, poor seat) with the design and these are well documented and easily fixed quite cheaply. Even the potentially weak 3rd gear has a fix if you really want to reduce all risks of failure.

After living with the DR for a couple of years now, I am more confident about it's combined reliability and capability to get me anywhere then any other bike currently on the market.

Spot on Timo!
I guess we're both kind of "preaching to the choir" here.
Most everything about the DR has been said already. But hard to over emphasize the great versatility of the DR650. As you've said, all bikes need upgrades for LD travel. The DR is no exception, but costs are relatively low.

I'm amazed at the number of converts that have come over from BMW's, KLR's and even KTM 640's and Huskies.

Oddly, one weak area is the point of this thread: It's NOT a great bike two up, the reasons already made clear many posts back in this thread. But as stated, for some smaller riders traveling light, it can work.

We've now fully kitted out our new DR650 for a RTW trip.

I'm noticing the side stand is too long when the bike is fully loaded, the bike sits almost vertical with stock suspension compressed.

We have a major concern than some people are pointing out to us - the gear box.

A bike dealership in Sydney say they have seen 3 different DR650 riders who have had to pull out of their RTW trip midway through because of gearbox issues, usually 3rd gear specifically. They said it usually blows up during acceleration with riders accidentally missing a gear on the way up. Whilst the engine is indestructible, the DR650s gearbox was never designed for all the extra weight associated with RTW luggage, safari tanks etc.

This was news to me and may have changed my decision to go with a DR650 for a 2-up RTW trip.

Cheers,

J

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If you look into to the "3rd gear" issue you'll find some interesting history, facts, speculation and fantasy.
Below I quoted back something I wrote back in 2012, below that is a link to the ADV Rider thread on the subject. Below that ... a list of reported failures. As stated, very few of these guys ever posted details or ever posted on ADV Rider, so it's sort of "heresay evidence" from one very bitter guy.

I also make the point of all the failures in Australia vs. very few in USA. I attribute this to how the bike is used down under. Turns out DR's are raced and even used on Moto Cross tracks. TIP: The DR650 was NEVER made to withstand racing or Cross Country race events. Not in it's DNA.

Also note that with most of the listed failures we don't know if it was the NSU bolt that came loose and ruined the engine or if, in fact, 3rd gear actually broke. Hard to tell after the fact ... but MOST Of the guys listed apparently never did the simple preventative FIX of securing the NSU bolts with Loc-Tite.

If you believe in percentages ... then you should probably relax. Go easy on your bike, don't LUG the motor, don't bang shifts ... and DO the NSU fix! All good.

American Suzuki sell around 5,000 DR650's every year in USA (give or take 10%) and have done since 1996. There are around 1700 Suzuki dealers in the USA. The number of 3rd Gear failures is small when put against overall units out there. (about 90,000 units, give or take)

The fact the Oz and NZ units fail has, IMHO, more to do with use/abuse than product failure.


"Nordie boy seems to be the "keeper of the stats" on this issue. Below is "The List" of blow ups. Posted back in Feb, 2012. There may be more current updates, dunno. (it's a big thread!)

Question: Are we sure everyone of these so called 3rd gear blow ups was actually 3rd gear letting go? Or could it have been an NSU bolt come loose and wrecked havoc? Once metal starts bashing round in a gear box ... may be hard to tell where it started or what let go first. Did everyone of the reports include a total tear down of the motor? There is a reason I ask this. (see below *)

Funny, I've only ever heard or seen posts from a few of the guys listed below. Perhaps they post on the OZ forums and not ADV? On the 16 million view/90K post BIG DR650 thread on ADV Rider, in 8 years I've seen only about 6 reports of either NSU or 3rd gear failures. What does that tell you?

Note of the 28 listed, only 8 are from the USA. Yet the USA accounts for 40 times more DR sales annually than Oz and NZ combined. Oz/NZ are a tiny spec of the market ...yet somehow account for a majority of the "problem". Why?

*Actually ... our '96 DR650 should be added to the list. Problem is I can't confirm whether it was an NSU problem or 3rd gear problem. Sold off the broken engine to someone who needed a case, never fully opened it up, just removed from frame. Never heard what the problem was or if it was even identifiable. I did pull on side cover and saw inside was a disaster. I feel this is exactly what most owners do ... and they go no further to investigate.

Based on what we know in terms of blow ups (probably somewhat under reported in the USA) and putting that against the number of DR650's Suzuki has sold in the USA since 1996 ... I'd place the 3rd gear blow-up percentage at less than one percent among USA bikes."

Find 3rd Gear Blow up thread here:
DR650 3rd gear blowups - ADVrider


Originally Posted by NordieBoy
Another one.
From Oz, the land of the low mileage blowups.

DR650 3rd Gear Blowups...

NordieBoy (NZ) 2001 60,000km
Transalper (NZ) 2001 55,000km
Rosscoact (AU) 2004 13,000km
Mardy (US) 1997 53,000km
Haddon (NZ) 1999 40,000km
RubberCow80 (AU) 2001 25,000km
Philth (AU) 3 bikes <20,000km
BikeRooter (AU) 2006 10,200km
Madsdad (US) 2005 16,000km
briangv99 (AU) 2006 21,000km
bluebye (US) 2004 37,000km
Coyote X (US) 2007 33,800km
DRjoe (AU) 1997 100,000km
DRJens (SE) 2001 23,000km
DRjoe (AU) 2003 15,000km
Miniroot (NZ) 2007 39,200km
Helicopter (NZ) 2002 ???km
Klay (US) 2001 29,000km
RobTheButch (AU) 2007 17,000km
Ganjora (??) 2009 36,857km
shdashley (AU) 2006 17,500km
Scary fish (AU) 2010 21,000km
MrHilux (AU) 2007 7,000km
cva4259 (US) 2010 22,500km
ChromeSux (US) 2003 13,000km
Willson (FR) 2007 40,000km
Chupas (US) 2009 34,000km
002 (AU) 2002 18,500km

I'm not familiar with the Loc-Tite method of fixing the NSU. I thought the NSU issue was the rarest of rare occurrences. I wonder if there is a better explanation to why Aussie DRs are doing this.

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NSU issues not rare at all. But Failures caused by errant NSU bolts ARE rare.

You can read reports from hundreds of DR650 owners who have checked their NSU bolts ... and found them quite loose. Loose, but not missing!

Starting in round 2011 ... Suzuki changed the NSU bolts from a JIS head to an Allen. Also, on newer bikes these bolts have been found to be consistently TIGHTER than in previous years. Not sure if Suzuki are applying Loc Tite at the factory or not (they should do!)

Pre 2011 owners would find NSU bolts quite loose ... even from new.
Suzuki don't tighten NSU bolts very tight because it bears down on a plastic spacer ... which can crack if NSU bolts are over tight. Make sense?

So what owners do is to either use Loc-Tite on the bolts ...or...safety wire the bolts in place. (total overkill IMO). I found the NSU bolts loose on my 2006 DR650, used RED loc-tite on bolt threads. Easy fix.

If you re-read my post above ... you'll note my "theory" about why the OZ bikes have most of the problems. If you follow the OZ DR forums, ADV Rider and others where the DR is discussed, you'll learn about how the bike is used in Australia and New Zealand.
To them, it's a "Race on Sunday, Drive to work on Monday" bike. I've followed the DR threads and forums since 2006 ... after a while a pattern emerges.

That's reassuring. I have a 2013 model, bought new for this trip. Would you agree that I shouldn't need to worry about the NSU bolt? I'm quite conservative and cautious on the road, but I feel I'm carrying a bit too much luggage. It is a sloppy gear shift accident at 80kph from 4th to 5th with a pillion and full luggage going up a steep hill with headwind which is my biggest worry.

While on the topic, would you go for a windshield for a RTW trip? Or is it just a noisy pain in the a**? The wind resistance against my body at over 90kph is the only aspect which is leading me to weigh this one up.

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If you're concerned about loose NSU bolts, then I'd check. It's unlikely they are loose ... but it's just NOT a big deal to pull off the right side clutch cover and check. If not tight ... then remove bolts, add Loc tite ... and replace ... tightly but not over tight!

The DR has plenty of power and isn't too concerned about what gear you're in. Just so you know ... you can actually wind it up to 85 mph in 4th gear with stock gearing! Yes ... I've done it. Top speed is only 105 mph on a good day.

Overloading is a constant challenge for travelers. Re-think every thing you carry. Will you camp? SO MANY travelers carry a TON of camping gear ...
and then never use it. Certain areas camping is just not practical or even safe.

Wind:
The DR is remarkably stable in most wind. I did have trouble in Baja when Desert winds kicked up to over 60 knots, strongest wind I ever rode in. ... it came in strong gusts so would catch you out.

In a typical head wind, down shift to 4th and don't be afraid to rev it and run hard into wind. Fuel economy will plunge but the DR motor won't mind one bit. It's just so tough. It does like good oil.


High winds in Baja blew rock of this fresh road cut onto road. Blocked road to cars. You can't tell from pic ... but wind was a steady 40 knots with 60 knot gusts that blew me and the DR across the road. I just went slow.
No problemo.

Windshield:
Lots of DR riders run a shield. Several good ones for sale in Aus.

I am not fond of a shield for two reasons:
1. Wind noise. Very hard to set for quiet air. No shield means fairly quiet, steady air flow. But I have a strong neck and can cruise at 80 mph for 10 hours a day. Others tune the shield and get it spot on for a quiet ride.

2. I hate looking through a shield riding off road. Sure, I could adapt ... but prefer not having it there.

This is ALL preference. If riding it very cold weather, a shield makes a lot more sense. I ride California and Mexico ... rarely cold.

More later ...

If you are really concerned about the potential 3rd gear problem, Procycle in the US is now selling a replacement 3rd Gear kit for about $600US:
Suzuki DR650 Parts, Accessories, & Performance - ProCycle
I'm not sure how involved it would be changing the gears, but if my old BMW G/S is anything to go on:confused1:, you might want to have a shop do that for you. At a minimum you would want a shop manual on hand.

As to doing the NSU switch, I'd go ahead and take care of that if I were you. Despite that fact that there is a reported change in the newer bikes, I have not seen any confirmation that the screws are sufficiently secured on newer DR's. It is an easy preventative fix. A couple of notes:
1) It can be done without removing the clutch, but you might have to bend or fabricate some tools to remove/ install the screws (I welded a small bit onto an old flat head screw driver, at the right angle to get at the screws which are under the lip of the clutch basket).

2) I preemptively ordered the gasket for the clutch side, but found that my existing gasket was fine for re-use. If you have access to a local shop and the time to wait if you have to order, you might find it comes off without tearing.
3) if you can't work the screws out without removing the clutch, then maybe they are in there tight enough anyway.

I cannot explain the unusual amount of failure attributed to southern Hemisphere DR's. I find it hard to believe that it is caused by any specifically localized hard use, but I can't refute that either. There are lots of DR's in North America that are 'ridden hard and put away wet' as well. Racing? well, you got me there - I don't know of anyone racing a DR in my neck of the woods, but I'm sure it's been done.

On the DR forums I frequent it seems to be accepted as one of the engine's few, but very rare failure areas. That being said, I'd be surprised if there is a bike out there without a few issues that could end a trip. From what I know, DR's rarely fail other then from old age or poor maintenance.

Windshield - Very personal decision. I took a small universal on my first long trip, and ended up strapping it on the back for most of the days. As Mollydog said, it just made the noise/ wind blast worse, and I didn't really notice any reduced fatigue. However, for my next trip I ordered a shorter fiberglass 'dual sport fairing' that replaces the front number plate style headlight on the DR. It is sold by ADV Monster, and is designed to completely replace the DR's front headlight with two LED lights of your choice. In my case, it has provided 3 benefits:
1) a bit more wind protection, without buffeting or a shield I can't see over easily off-road. Nice and quiet, takes the wind off my chest, helmet is in 'clean' air.
2) The stock light on the DR is, well, not that great (truthfully, most bikes have lousy lights, because one 55 watt bulb isn't enough - cars get two, so we should get 110 watts right?!).
3) but, you can't just add more lights because 225 Watts is all you have (and you do want heated grips and/ or the possibility of a heated vest right?).

So by adding 2 35 watt LED lamps with an adjuster on the low beam to dial it down for safe hwy use, I save a significant 35 watts of power, and get much better lighting (or have all 60 watts on and get 'daytime' type lighting).

advmonster

I'd recommend this, but there are other screens that can work well too, so I am told. Good luck!