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  #16  
Old 18 Feb 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genghis9021 View Post
The DRZ OEM battery is notoriously poor. Thin plates mean it likes to degrade rather gracelessly and at all the wrong times.

An option to put a more appropriate battery is offered by a VERY respected DRZ engine tuner (Eddie Sisneros) whose built not a few 50+ HP engines.

It helps ALOT to re-wire the the VRR output directly to the battery adding about .5 volts at the terminals. Japanese bikes are notorious for skimpy wiring (the headlight connections on the DRZ are 20g !

I run an HID on my DRZ that allows others to see me in daylight reduces anxiety considerably at night - you can actually SEE ! But it did require a relay and heavier wiring that using the skimpy OEM harness.
I did that mod. Not off Sinsero though.

He just supplies a 10a battery off a fireblade. It actually fits in the stock battery tray if you cut the back out of it and replace it with a velcro strap or something similar. Pictures on my website.
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  #17  
Old 18 Feb 2013
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I have a DRZ e with an electric boot and an aftermarket kicker.

The following might be useful/ contradictory.

*I’ve found it’s a real b!tch to bump it.

*Once you’ve got the technique, kicking it is straight forward

*I prefer the electric boot over the kicker, in fact I bought the drz over the xr4, cos the xr4 is kick only (I known about aftermarket lekkie kits for the xr ) Coincidentally, my DRZ had a kicker kit already installed when I bought it

*When really mudplugging the bike does overheat, despite using water-wetter in the rad. I just stop for 10 mins and ride on and remember to top up the rad fluid when the bike is cold.

*When riding “normal” trails or liaising between trails, I’ve never overheated the engine.

*If I could be bothered to get round to it (and had the skills) I’d try to fit a fan to the rad.
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