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8 Dec 2011
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Bringing M8 bolts down to M6?
All the bolts on my crankcase are M6's except for the ones going through the oil filter cover, these were once M6's too but thread was stripped and they were tapped up to M8 (only option on the road at the time). The metal around one of the bolt holes through the oil filter cap has cracked open because the increased bolt size means bigger hole for the bolt means less metal around it means less strength.
There seems to be a bit more metal around the holes going through the crank case cover and crank case itself so I'm not worried about them (yet!)  but if I replace the oil filter cover and drill it bigger again it's probably going to happen again.
I was looking into helicoils and time serts but they seem too thin to take hold in the enlarged holes.
Anyone have any bright ideas?
I had thought of a time sert within a time sert or something like that but I have no clue about these things so I'm presuming that'd be a bad idea. 
Thanks!
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8 Dec 2011
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8mm aluminium bar threaded, screw it in tight, cut it off and file it flush, fit the outer cover, use a snug fitting drill to dimple/centre the plug you've installed, drill it 5mm then tap it 6mm........
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8 Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oothef
8mm aluminium bar threaded, screw it in tight, cut it off and file it flush, fit the outer cover, use a snug fitting drill to dimple/centre the plug you've installed, drill it 5mm then tap it 6mm........
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Yeah.. That sounds like a good plan.
However, I would put some serious thread locking compound or even some chemical metal on the threads of the bar to lower the risk of it eventually spinning..
You can actually fill and tap the higher quality metal putty compounds. Although I haven't tried it personally, I've read plenty of cases of it being done successfully. The oil filter cap is low load and low torque so it 'shouldn't be a problem.
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8 Dec 2011
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Or, fit the aluminium bar then file out where the crack is and have someone fill it with a fat seem of weld. Then file down flush on the face, obviously.
I think that would be the most secure in the long run but also the most work/cost.
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Did some trips.
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Fix them for a living.
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8 Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oothef
8mm aluminium bar threaded, screw it in tight, cut it off and file it flush, fit the outer cover, use a snug fitting drill to dimple/centre the plug you've installed, drill it 5mm then tap it 6mm........
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Great idea! I knew I was thinking of it arseways! Will use a locking compound alright.
Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
Or, fit the aluminium bar then file out where the crack is and have someone fill it with a fat seem of weld. Then file down flush on the face, obviously.
I think that would be the most secure in the long run but also the most work/cost.
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The work I don't mind but cost is another story! But if you're going to do something you might as well do it right.
Thanks for the info, it'll take me a while to get it done but I'll post back the results.
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8 Dec 2011
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Yes, vee out the crack and weld, just make sure the welder knows their stuff, and disconnect the battery if you're doing it in the bike.
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9 Dec 2011
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I was looking at Loctite 270 to lock the thread of the 8mm rod in the crankcase, its service temperature range: -55°C - +180 °C. It's location though is right below the cylinder, think this temperature is good enough? Recommendation for alternative if needed?
As for filling aluminium cracks I was looking at Loctite 3479, I have a few small chips and cracks that need fixing so this might be just the thing for me. Anyone got any experience with it or similar products?
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9 Dec 2011
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I don't know where you are but I've got some 270, I bet the filler won't be cheap, but if you are going to shell out your hard earned on that, why not just use that on the threads as well? you could also "pop" on the casing, using a sharp punch, just on the outside of the hole/threads in two or three spots, you'd have to smooth back the mushrooming.
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