Quote:
Originally Posted by ridetheworld
Thanks all - seems to have gone away completely now, only thing that changed is I've risen in altitude. Could have been just a bad tank of really bad fuel, as if it could get much worse in Bolivia!
Back of Beyond, the ringing bell analogy is very apt - would definitely agree it sounded like that!
Mollydog, if the pilot fuel screw only effects idle, why do people recommend turning in inwards when rising in altitude?
Cheers!
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Good to hear it's cleared up!
Oil weight and level are important. A heavier oil in very cold weather may allow the top end/valves to be noisy until fully warm.
Good question regards fuel screw and altitude.
Several things can help the engine run better at high altitude. You may notice a low idle, stalling and hard starting as you ride higher. Engine won't take throttle, and of course will be way down on power. Read on:
You are correct ... going "IN" on the fuel screw does lean out the mixture but the Pilot fuel screw only affects idle to 1/8 throttle. Running lean in this circuit will save fuel on the overrun (coasting with throttle shut) but YES you will get back firing.
Keep in mind it's likely your new Honda is already super lean in stock form. (as most ALL bikes are these days) Should run OK up to about 2500 mtrs.
But going "IN" on the fuel screw will help with a smoother idle and starting once up over 2500 mtrs or so. Also will help initial throttle response. But in conjunction with leaning the fuel screw, you should raise the idle speed as well ... and there is more ....
Two more steps for VERY high altitude riding:
Open air box, either remove side cover or cut open a hole, remove snorkel or do whatever to get MORE AIR into air box and engine. Motor will run smoother, idle better and run more normally with a bit more power.
The last, and most effective thing ... but also the most work, is to change your main jet to a smaller main jet. One or two sizes DOWN (smaller number) will help a lot at high altitude ... and save fuel too.
Problem with that is, once down at lower altitude, you really should change back to original main jet. Running TOO LEAN (smaller main jet) at sea level in hot weather is NOT good for the engine.
When riding at high altitude I do steps above in the order I listed them. However, on my bike, the air box is already opened up. An aftermarket header and exhaust can also lean out mixture and help performance at high altitude.
All these elements work together and every change affects outcome, all are integral and related.
Also keep in mind
ALL engines lose power at altitude. F.I. (fuel injection) keeps mixture right, which means even at 5K mtrs. engine will start and idle fine. But it will be WAY down on power, same as a bike with a Carb.
The fiddling I describe above will get your bike starting, idling and running a bit better, but it will STILL be down on power, especially higher than about 2500 meters.
At 4000 meters my DR650 felt like it had lost half it's power. So don't think anything is wrong .... it's physics of internal combustions engines is all.