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19 Oct 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
Even the manufacturers of chain lube will admit that it does nothing to prevent the life of an O/X-ring chain. But it does prevent corrosion. The grease for a chain is applied when it's made and meant for its entire lifetime. It's held inside the rollers by those sealing rings. Although it could be argued that chain oil keeps those sealing rings lubricated which may prevent them drying out and degrading. .
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Yes lube keeps O-rings lubricated and prolongs their life and also reduces amount of moisture going through in rain/at water x-ings and with temperature change. It could be argued that lube can also revitalize dried out grease on old chain and it reduces roller wear in non-dusty conditions.
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20 Oct 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopathic
... It could be argued that lube can also revitalize dried out grease on old chain ...
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This is a good point, a few times I've bought an old bike that's been sat and as a result has a bunch of sticky links.
With a good clean and re-lube (then a bit of riding and a repeated clean and lube) some of them have been useable for a good while after, the most recent lasted about 5000km after being in a condition many would describe as completely f'd.
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20 Oct 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
Even the manufacturers of chain lube will admit that it does nothing to prevent the life of an O/X-ring chain. But it does prevent corrosion. The grease for a chain is applied when it's made and meant for its entire lifetime. It's held inside the rollers by those sealing rings. Although it could be argued that chain oil keeps those sealing rings lubricated which may prevent them drying out and degrading.
This is why you shouldn't use harsh solvents on a O-ring/Xring chain. And especially not penetrating oils like WD40 which will get behind though seals and clear out the grease.
However, it does prolong the life of your sprockets.
IMO, the absolute most important aspect of chain maintenance to pre-long life is setting the correct tension.
If your chain is sloppy, that YANK when the excess tension is taken up is what stretches your chain and wears out your sprockets.
I've worked this out in the last twenty years of working as a Motorcycle Tech. 99/100 bikes I have serviced in main dealers needed their chains tightening.
The biggest mistakes people make by doing it themselves is:
A) Doing it on a centre stand.... WRONG... (Side stand is where a manufacturer sets the tension)
B) Not finding the tight spot first
C)Over lubricating the chain so it acts like glue for grit and other abrasives.
D) Using harsh solvents which penetrate the sealing rings and wash the grease out.
E) Buying cheap chains. It's seldom cost effective.
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Interesting read Ted, especially the part about a sloppy chain. I always thought the worst I could do to a chain was adjusting too tight as that for sure would ruin the X/O ring seals and ruin the links as well. Therefore I have had a tendency to keep the chains on my bikes a bit sloppy rather than a bit too tight. But now I might have to rethink that….?
Another thing that always seem to occure with chains on my bikes is that the chain can dead tight on the upper level and super sloppy on under level. And if I roll the bike 50-100 centimeter forward or backwards it can be fine or even opposite… another reason I usually keep my chains at the more sloppier end of the scale. Is there a logic explanation to this and maybe something to do about this?
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20 Oct 2021
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The more worrying thing about having a chain too tight is that it can mess up the bearing or seal for the output shaft (or in a worst-case scenario, the shaft itself), which is a problem in the middle of nowhere, and can be expensive.
Chains don't stretch uniformly, thats why the chain appears "tight" on one "side" compared to another - hence Touring Ted's point "B" on his list
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21 Oct 2021
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^^^
Add excessive wear to rollers/sprockets and I had seen chain snap, wrap around front sprocket and punch a hole in crankcase.. I would rather err on loose side.
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22 Oct 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopathic
^^^
Add excessive wear to rollers/sprockets and I had seen chain snap, wrap around front sprocket and punch a hole in crankcase.. I would rather err on loose side.
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So Im not wrong then - about that I rather keep the chain on loose side instead of on the tight side?
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22 Oct 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snakeboy
So Im not wrong then - about that I rather keep the chain on loose side instead of on the tight side?
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You want it at the correct tension. Not sloppy and not tight.
When you set the tension of a chain on the side stand it's meant to replicate the tension of the chain when you're sitting on it. Or close enough. Depending on suspension settings.
If you hold a bike up-right (unloaded) the chain will be tighter than it would be on the side stand.
If you sit on your bike (feet on pegs) and ask someone to hold you level (or lean against a wall), you want your chain should be taught with just slight free-play. If you can slightly move the chain with your finger then it's not going to hurt your bearings or seals. If it's 'Drum tight' then you need to slacken it off a touch.
Running your chain to loose is the of course the safest option if you're unsure about tensions and worried about running it too tight. But it will wear out quickly as it's always being yanked tight when you accelerate and it's also flapping about, which causes premature wear too.
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Last edited by *Touring Ted*; 24 Oct 2021 at 13:51.
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23 Oct 2021
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All good points, the only other thing I can add is if you have a high mileage bike then a loose chain can also cause shifting problems where the bike doesn't want to change gear or finds extra false neutrals, basically being weird.
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19 Oct 2022
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We switched the Tango from the original chinese unsealed chain to a DID VX "X-ring" chain, that bike has a whopping 9hp and there hasn't been any noticeable drop in performance ... however the bike feels much much smoother to ride!
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21 Oct 2022
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See my detailed article here on How to adjust your Chain I wrote for Cycle Canada magazine in the '80's.
You can pretty much ignore the alignment part, modern bikes are assembled much more accurately than in the "good" old days. Also ignore the chain lube discussion - it's for PRE-O-ring chains!
It should answer all your questions .
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31 Oct 2022
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If you ride a small engine bike it is a must to keep your chain well lubricated
as a dry chain will reduce your engine power ........... just try it with some old engine oil and you will feel how much better it runs ! ( dont oil your chain in sandy conditions ) I allways take 2 small bottles with me ( best is hotel shampoo bottles ). never replaced a chain in my life !
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1 Nov 2022
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Hello all,
have read this week Regina chains have just brought out a maintenance free chain,you will still need correct adjustment but no lube,
sounds to good to be true, i live in hope!
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2 Nov 2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrevel
Hello all,
have read this week Regina chains have just brought out a maintenance free chain,you will still need correct adjustment but no lube,
sounds to good to be true, i live in hope!
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That's been out for a while, and has it's pro's and con's.
See this thread for a major discussion on it when it came out.
We live in hope, right?
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3 Nov 2022
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thanks for that will have a look.
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6 Nov 2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrevel
Hello all,
have read this week Regina chains have just brought out a maintenance free chain,you will still need correct adjustment but no lube,
sounds to good to be true, i live in hope!
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https://www.revzilla.com/common-trea...ut-to-the-test
It's gimmick
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