Hey,

just wanted to share the newest info on the unofficial Peruvian version of the Death Road of La Paz - the road from Cuzco to Santa Maria/Hidroelectrica and eventually, Machu Picchu.

First off, the road from Cuzco to Santa Maria (the closest village to Machu Picchu accesible by bike) is tricky all year round: because of landslides, waterfalls, springs and streams from the snow-capped mountains and good old negligence, sometimes the road is blocked. Because Peru is, well, Peru, the police sometimes don´t bother to stop you and inform you there´s a roadblock or a bit of a road that´s actually been destroyd completely; there have been numerous bikers having to turn around mid - way simply because the police officers told them to go back in the middle of the road instead of the very beginning of it due to mis-communication or simple laziness. So once you reach Ollantaytambo, it´s a good idea to check with the local police and make them tell you whether the road is accessible.

If however you still get stuck, there are quite a few villages that have hostels with garages for bikes (especially Santa Teresa) as well as gas stations or locals selling gas.

And finally, as you get to Hidroelectrica (the hydro-electric plant), that´s where the road ends. Literally. The only way to get to Machu Picchu is either taking the ridiculously expensive train (USD 50 one way for a 15 minute ride), or hiking (around 7km, but the views are totally worth it). As you reach the Hidroelectrica, there is a tourist check-point sort of post. Ask for the security guards; they will happily watch your bike for 15-20 soles (around USD 9) a night while you make your Machu Picchu hike.

The other thing is, most people stay the night in Aguas Calientes, or the Pueblo Machu Picchu. This is however a horrible, overpriced, stifling, tourist-packed sort of place. I highly recommend staying the night at Jardines de Mandor - a lovely quiet hostel on km 114 along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. It´s cheap, comfy, quiet, has great food, great trekking if you want to stay a bit longer, the manager speaks good English, and is incredibly helpful. It´s only 2 km from the actual Machu Picchu and around 2,3 km from Aguas Calientes (where you will inevitably have to go just to purchase your Machu Picchu tickets).

cheers

I recently did this exact trip and no offense but the previous post almost sounds like it was written buy whoever sells the train tickets from Cusco directly and is basically making it sound horrible. To be honest, riding from Alaska to Chile, taking the "back door route" to Machu Pichu was in fact one of our most favorite roads of all. And we did it two up on a KLR. The other couple we were with were on a KTM 990 and a BMW f600. The ride itself was spectacular. There are MANY places to stay along the way that are beautiful little villages along the river and there was gas a plenty. In fact had we known now what we didn't know then we would have stayed a few nights along the river and not so many nights in Cusco deciding wether to take the train or not. The death road was absolutely stunning, granted I can see how it could be dangerous in heavy rains but other than that it was AMAZING. And the drive through all the villages between Cusco and Agua Caliente were stunning themselves. As well as the roads and huge windy beautifully paved mountain passes between them all. There is even a town where if the rain is to bad and you can't ride on where you can jump in the train from there and continue on. But if you can make it ti Aguas Calientes, there you will find one of the most stunning hot springs in the entire South America. We rhode our bikes down into the canyon and put our tents up and stayed for I believe 5 usd if not free. Then there is a hostal where you can park your bikes indoors for again I believe 5-10 usd a day while heading to Machu Pichu. Cheers and have fun...

The Train ride from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Caliente is 50 Soles or about $18 US each way. Not $50!
The train ride is 11 kilometers apparently... I am not sure I didn't measure it... anyway it was easy to walk next to the tracks in 2 hours and quite a lot of people do it.
The last train from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Caliente leaves at 4.30pm.

Aguas Caliente is indeed expensive and full of tourists, which Mirrors the situation for its tourist attraction of Machu Pichu. Tickets were booked out 4 days ahead when I went there, and the online payment system was crap and never worked for me.

There is parking available at Hydroelectrica with some guys that live there. They do this for anyone that needs it - motorbikes, bicycles, 4wds, trucks or whatever you have. I have no affiliation with them but enjoyed their friendly and convenient service. They gave me a flyer they had just made up to let people know where they are

Cpaulson,

as for my post, I simply wanted to point out a few things that I think are worth knowing.

I absolutely agree that the road is stunning and the views are amazing, but I´m new to motorcycling and had I known the condition of that road and how mental all the collectivo drivers were out there, I probably would have thought twice before doing it.

Now that I´m more confident after my 11 000+ kms on a bike in South America I´d definitely do it again (actually, probably will once im back from Argentina); all I was saying was that it´s worth taking precautions. Especially checking if there are no roadbloacks, having to turn back when you´re halfway there is no fun at all.

Safe travels

Ellie

Here is a link with a few photos and blog of my trip to Machu Picchu.

Travel the Road

I met a french lad in Bolivia who was disgusted with himself that he had got the train because of lack of information on the road to Machu Picchu so I thought i would update this thread.

Biggest change is the bridge just before the Hydro station is currently not passable. There is a box girder bridge in place but no entry and exit ramps just yet. The workers are getting off their busses, crossing a foot bridge and getting into a bus on the far side. This obviously causes difficulty with parking a bike at the hydro or checkpoint.

From Cusco the road via Pisac is very good tarmac in the dry [non porous so very slippy in wet]. If you don't like constant switchbacks i suggest you get the train though.

Santa Maria to Santa Teresa is dirt as previously stated. One deeper unconcreted river crossing [April].

I followed a previous suggestion and stayed in Santa Teresa [Same hostal, straight on when entering town and last on right before dirt. Marked with a H, glass doors to bike parking inside.]

I paid for Minibus to the Hydro for 5 soles with workers.

There is an early train 08.45, I happened to walk into the station as it arrived and thought it was a sign so i took it. Fantastic journey [28USD] Glad I took it though, on the walk down the tracks i met a lot of tired people before they had even got the chance to roam all over Machu Picchu mountain.

Hope this helps someone else!

Can you give me the 411 on visiting MP by motorycle?

I have nver seen motorycle pictures at the MP site so I guess there has never been a way to get to it on two wheels?

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Bicycles and motorbikes are prohibited along the rail track. Even if you got past the sign in point at the hydro station there's another checkpoint at the bridge from aguas calientes not to mention the entrance gate at the top of the bus track. Don't see why you would bother to be honest!

The walk along the rail line is a nice one.

Thanks for all the great info in this thread everyone. This has long been a dream ride of a mine that I hope to do in the near future. Got me pumped!

According to a post on panamerican facebook, the bridge just out of Santa Maria was just washed away, but maybe it was the one further towards Hydro that someone mentioned.

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Click here for Travel Photos & Travel Map

Daveed,

Nice trip report. Cool you made in on a little Honda 150. As much as I love my big ADV bikes a simple bike like that reminds me of what riding is all about.

The fuel tank looked massive for such a small bike? What was the capacity?

Regarding binoculars, I won't take an RTW or upcoming trip to Alaska without them. Which brand/model number did you take with you?

Thanks!

NC

Hello, thanks!

The fuel tank was 2.5-3 gallons. I never ran out of gas. I bought it at merimoto in Merida Mexico for about $2000 usd. It got me through 12 countries 16,000 kilometers and never had a problem. I called her superhonda although I had over loaded her for so long that 15 spokes gave out and snapped in Between Cartagena and Medellin. One by one I kept hearing pops until my wheel was so wobbly I had to pull over. I had been doing 125 kph just before I realized it. Had to spend the night in a hotel on the river and get the locals to help me out. 5 different people helped and 6 hours later I was back on the road.

Hello, thanks!

The fuel tank was 2.5-3 gallons. I never ran out of gas. I bought it at merimoto in Merida Mexico for about $2000 usd. It got me through 12 countries 16,000 kilometers and never had a problem. I called her superhonda although I had over loaded her for so long that 15 spokes gave out and snapped in Between Cartagena and Medellin. One by one I kept hearing pops until my wheel was so wobbly I had to pull over. I had been doing 125 kph just before I realized it. Had to spend the night in a hotel on the river and get the locals to help me out. 5 different people helped and 6 hours later I was back on the road.

Howdy Peeps!
I have written guide to getting to Machu Picchu the back way, with maps.
Please visit

dags VS the world Peru: Motorcycle the Incas (Machu Picchu) - dags VS the world

for everything you need!

dags

I fully agree!

That sounds rather exaggerated!
We did this road a few years ago. Then it was far from being exceptional bad for Peru and Bolivian roads. Indeed I can´t remember any challenging part. The only issue was snow on the highest pass. Can´t remember the name or the altitude.

The comparison fits, if one means the present conditions of the "Road of death" in Bolivia. Since there´s an paved alternative route for many years now, over which nearly all heavy traffic goes, the old "Road of death" is a walk in the park and maybe one of the safest roads in Bolivia.

As cpaulson said: one of the most senic routes in Peru and a must ride!

Cheers

Panny

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