Thought folks may want to know a bit of info about travel in Mauritania. I arrived home just before Christmas after riding to The Gambia with me mate Dave. This was the Simon Milward Memorial Run. Riders for Health is a great place to visit in The Gambia. We buried a 'time capsule' of Simon's personal items at RfH for the Milward family.

When planning the journey, the new road through Mauritania gained mythical status, with all kinds af varying reports about it, so here's some reasonably up to date firm news.

The road was finished in October 05 and is was extremely good and smooth on the way down to Nouakchott (we were travelling down in Nov). Tar all the way from Nouadhibou to NKC. As of Dec 05 THERE IS STILL NO PETROL on this route! You need gas for 470km, we carried jerrycans to supplement the 17 ltr tanks on our GS650 Dakars. There are some fuel stations being built, but the people we met didn't seem to positive about petrol being available even then... (though one gas station owner tried to swap his baby for my GS...) Diesel can be bought en route from the side of the road (Bottles, big plastic cans and fuel 'bladders'.)

Fuel situation in Nouadhibou can be flaky. On the way down, we had to search hard for petrol, finding some in the end. On the way back every station had petrol. If you need to carry a fuel can on your bike, I recommend that you fill it in the Western Sahara -- just in case. Oh for bigger tanks...

On the way north in mid Dec, we noted that lots of sand was starting creep across the new road, with several large berms forming. I don't know how often this is cleared, but beware of this, particularly if travelling at night.

The locals have also started 'nibbling' at the road in one or two places (Seems a Mauritanian pastime to steal the tarmac for other uses, like sealing roofs. Even saw guys digging the road up and carting it off under the noses of a police checkpoint in Nouakchott)

Road from Nouackchott to Rosso is OK for a gentle cruise, but full of holes. Bits of it have been carted off and there's a 300 yard section completely missing. Lots of potholes 20-30km from Rosso.

Rosso border is a total nightmare. Watch out for fake cops. If you value your documents and your wallets, turn off in Rosso and head for Diama Dam. The piste along the River Senegal is 100km and mostly good. Plenty of sand traps for the unwary if travelling on the path below the dyke. Stay on the dyke if you want an easier ride. It's a lovely route actually and fun for even nervous piste travellers. We only had road tyres and didn't have problems. Enjoy.

At Diama Dam, Mauritanian formalities are straightforward and should cost about 10 Euro, plus a small fee for being in the national park. Once over the dam, you pay 10 Euro to a guy who guards a pole barrier (an unofficial road toll), then between 20 and 40 euro for customs and police. This is unofficial rip-offs of course, so if you've got the time to argue... (we didn't)

Don't even try getting into Senegal without a Carnet. There was one guy who was stuck because he didn't have one. There are rumours that a short terms pass is available, but frankly I wouldn't bank on it. If available I expect it will cost the earth.

Gambia in revenge for Senegal insisting on the Carnet, now also ask for one.

I have lots of GPS waypoints and a reasonable plot of the new road on the Michelin 741. Please email me if you want these.

Cheers!

Craig

__________________
www.motorcycleoutreach.org
www.globebusters.com

Thanks Craig! that's precisely what I needed to know and have been trying to find out.
Many thanks
Denis

Thanks.

More about Rosso.

If wanting to attempt Rosso border going south, bear in mind that the gate to the customs/police compound seems to be guarded/looked after entirely by unofficial people. The crowd of waiting hustlers is quite large and this can be very disorientating. I expect that Cadeau could be pricey.

I came back through Rosso going north with my wife on the back after a pleasant evening at Richard Toll.

While staying for a few days at Zebrabar a few days before (Go there it's a fantastic place and very welcoming), We asked plenty of questions of folks who had tried (and in one case failed) to get through Rosso. From this we figured that arriving at the crack of dawn ups your chances of avoiding being totally ripped off.

It certainly helped and we avoided paying over the odds to get through the Senegal side, partly because folks were still half asleep. Free carnet stamp, free visa exit stamp. About 5 euro to get into the ferry/police/douane compound and the equivalent of another five for vehicle (de)registration by the police.

Tip.. Whatever you're told, get your carnet stamped first. Once your exit visa is stamped all kinds of 'problems' can be invented concerning your carnet -- and they have you by the balls if you've officially 'left' Senegal.

You pay for the ferry on the Mauritanian side.

Another tip... The Douane guys at a checkpoint just outside Rosso-Senegal are honest and helpful.

And another... Make sure that you ride straight through the queues of lorries to the gates of the compound. Push in if you have to. Ignore anyone who tries to get your attention.

Rosso Mauritania is more difficult. Once off the ferry from Rosso-Senegal you get accosted on the ramp by genuine police who take your papers. They won't let you go to the offices with your papers. I had a stand up row with one of them and only gave in when things started to get nasty. This guy really held his ground.

These bloody police then disappear and give all your papers to a huster who then insists on 'guiding' you around the various formalities. I suppose in effect, you pay to buy your papers back. (not my carnet though, I wrestled it out of the huster's hands after it had been stamped...)

Keep cool (it's quite chaotic there) and make sure you go everywhere with the huster. Fortunately, I had my wife to guard the bike.

We didn't pay a lot in European terms for the whole deal (about 35 Euro for customs/police/ferry passage/money for huster a/money for undisclosed service from huster B), but they sure make a fair living out of the whole sorry mess and if you're on a really, really tight budget, it ain't worth it in my view. Go to Diama Dam for an easier life.

Don't be put off Senegal though. The other border crossings seem relaxed and mostly hassle free. Besides, the country is an amazing African jewel, with great people, food and countryside. Shame it's being made difficult for overland travellers by things like the stupid carnet and institutionalised corruption.

Regards

Craig

__________________
www.motorcycleoutreach.org
www.globebusters.com

Really useful Craig. So I guess the moral is go via the Dam or be extremely laid back......

Incidentally do you reckon a 4x4 10 tonne truck could make the dam route? It's 2.4 metres wide, 3.5 high and about 9 long.

All the best
Q

Hi There,

The dyke on the Diama Dam route has the occasional dirt and sand berm to stop people from driving there for the whole route (OK for bikes though). It's also quite narrow in one or two places. This means that you'll probably want to mostly drive the route alongside which has regular softish sandy patches, but is more than wide enough.

In some places the piste brings you to the top of the dyke anyway (quite steep angled slopes up and down, but OK). Easy going then.

However, we saw a reasonable amount of larger 2wd vehicle traffic and there's a regular community 4x4 'bus' service. My guess is that you should be OK. The sections with the softest sand are between 5 and 20k from Rosso and a number of firmer alternative tracks have been forged alongside these bits.

Also, from memory, the sand can be quite soft at times just outside Rosso and it's probably the most bump section, so you'll very quickly know if you can get along it OK.

Mostly, the piste is a mix of packed sandy mud, with gravel sections thrown in. Mild corrugations occasionally.

Best of luck!

Craig

__________________
www.motorcycleoutreach.org
www.globebusters.com

Do you have a waypoint/instructions for getting to the barrage?

cheers
Andy
TLC H60
Landy 101 ambie/camper
1968 morris minor traveller

__________________
1990 Landcruiser H60. Full rebuild completed 2014

Quintin,
We did the Diama Dam going North in Oktober 2001 with our Mercedes 1017. 4x4,10 tonnes,170hp, extended wheelbase. Nice trip. The 100km took us 6 hours because of the mud. It rained about a week before.
Near the end we saw a roadsign "closed for trucks", but nobody complained. Customs even had a "official" price list for all kind of traffic, including trucks.
Good luck,
Deser Phantom

Hi Andy,

I'm sending you a mail.

Craig

__________________
www.motorcycleoutreach.org
www.globebusters.com

What are the west saharan/ mauretania and mauretania/mali border crossings like. Any info would be great, but it seems the only place on my journey that needs a Carnet is Mauretania. I hear the Carnet is very expensive, are there ways round not getting a Carnet? I hope to sell my vehicle in Mali, so the less hassle the better

cheers

WS/Mauri border was straightforward enough.

Stop in layby at WS border. This is about 5k after a large taxi rank, which looks a bit like a border post

Go to building on the right. Left hand door for police. Collect form and fill in outside, put this in your passport.

Go to middle door for vehicle doc checks etc.

Then go back to police and get passport exit stamp.

Then see customs guys who seem to hang out in layby. After that ride 25 yds to border 'gate' where you may get quizzed by a guard.

Set off into Minefield. 2-3km of bad, but navigable piste. Stay on tracks! avoid epileptic chasing dog owned by someone who lives in the scrapyard in this odd spot.

You can stop in no mans land. There's even a nice little 'car park' decorated with car wrecks. Useful for a quick break and a chance to sort out your papers, plus the obligatory 'this is me in a minefield' photo to awe and amaze your family and friends when you get back.

Watch out for sand traps and razor sharp rocks.

Arrive Mauri. First hut is the Army checkpoint. Then ride/drive to Police. 3-400 yards. They may invite you in while they take details etc, some lucky folks even got a glass of tea. You pay 10 Euro. Go to Customs. 300 yards or thereabouts. Ride/drive down.

Either they will ask you to buy a Mauri Carnet for about 10 Euro, or if you already have a full Carnet you can show it there.

Avoid the money changers, insurance touts and campsite owners who gather there, if you can. We told them that we had money and insurance.

Then you're out on a decent enough sealed road. Turn right 5-8km later on the brand new road just the other side of the ore train tracks, go to Nouadhibou and buy vehicle insurance. This is valid all over French speaking West Africa. Loads of agents in the town and everyone who hustles you seems to be an insurance 'agent'.

Go to bank for cash, though you can get a good rate in the hotels or campsites. There's an official and unofficial rate.

Nouadhibou is worth a visit if you have time. Canaria restaurant serves and does great fish. Shipwrecks on the Cansado road is a must see, especially at dawn.

Get fuel if needed. However, petrol supplies in Nouadhibou can be sporadic.

I don't know much about Mauri/Mali border. My travelling companion Dave went through there when he went riding on his own for a week later on in our trip. Said it was easy enough, when we came back together at Nouakchott for the journey north.

He crossed the border going north on the road from Nioro to Ayoun el Atrous.

Michelin 741 is now hellish out of date. Road is apparently now very good between Nouakchott and Ayoun el Atrous and onto Nioro. Dave said that the only bad stretch is between Nioro and Diema. Tough going on a bike in sections. Then new road from Diema to Bamako.

However, I didn't ride it myself -- only describing what I was told -- so please ask others about this route.

__________________
www.motorcycleoutreach.org
www.globebusters.com

BTW

Senegal definitely requires a Carnet.

Mauri sell you a cheap one at WS border going south, but will ask you for a proper one when you head from Senegal to Mauri (Rosso). Not sure if you could get away without one.
Gambia asks for one now, but not sure if it's specific requirement, or just the Gambian being difficult.




</font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

__________________
www.motorcycleoutreach.org
www.globebusters.com

Great stuff Craig!

I'd greatly appreicate it - and so woud others in future - if you could go to the "Border Crossing" section - link on left - and submit your info there.

thanks, Grant

__________________
Grant Johnson
Seek, and ye shall find.
------------------------
Inspiring, Informing and Connecting travellers since 1997!
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

There is fuel between NDB and NKT but only one official fuel station near Bou lanouar after that its people with drums of fuel so best to carry enough as no doubt it's a bit pricey. Rosso seems to have gained mythical status as a tough border crossing it isn't and if you enjoy a good argument it's a great place. They try to rip you off but personally with a hugely overloaded lardy overland bike I'd rather take the piss out of folk for a few hours than ride 100ks unneccasarily on sand. I even camped on the senegal side inside the imigration compound on my way back north which was a lot of fun, got fed by the watchmen and cleaners, yes they actually employ cleaners. I'd recommend Rosso, but I guess it could be daunting for anyone who hasn't been to Africa before or who likes a quiet life. If comming from the south a 7 day transit visa for Mauritania will cost you 20.00 Euros payabale only in Euros which was cheaper than getting one in Bamako but does seem to take a couple of hours or so but that may be cos I annoyed the police chappie who had to go to town to get my passport stamped at the main police station. Don't try this route if you don't have a new bike or a carnet, you will be screwed on the Senegalese side. I was there a couple of weeks ago so if anyone one wants more info on Mauri/Senegal/Guinea/Seirra Leone then send me a mail

Can anyone replying to this on border issues, please start a thread in 'Border Crossings'.


Good to hear the more recent update re fuel. We stopped at the station you mention nr Bou Lanouar. It only had diesel at that time. The guy there tried to swap his baby for my GS though. Surreal.

Yup lots of fuel sellers with drums etc, but we didn't encounter any with petrol, just diesel. But we didn't stop at all these places. Did you find petrol yourself?

Seems logical to suggest that as traffic builds up, we'll start to see a station or two spring up. I waypointed some of the places where there people had lots of drums.

Enjoyed your Rosso persepective. On the up side, despite the hustle, it wasn't a threatening place and we met two memorable charcaters, one genuinely helpful. Was concerned about theft though, plenty of characters trying out the locks on our boxes and other luggage fastenings when our backs were turned. Kids mainly.

You spent the night there? Neat. Everyone has a different experience and I suppose this is why it's gained a mythical status.

Re Diama piste. It's not tough, even with lots of kit on board (we had fairly heavily overloaded GS650 Dakars) and the big upside is that it goes through an absolutely lovely national park. I really recommend it.

Craig

__________________
www.motorcycleoutreach.org
www.globebusters.com

Isn't this such a great site!

Thanks also to Desert Phantom for the info on the Dam route. I wonder if you send me a message to qte at btinternet.com as I would like to ask you about your truck. Mine is a 917 AF which is virtually identical to yours and I'm particularly interested in what you did about diesel tank size and axle ratios

All the best

Q