Originally Posted by DR650Bandit

Yes I said it was pointless if we are locking up a bag, as the bag can be just cut. I was talking about securing the actual bike. I really don't know what you mean by a padlock it a false sense of security? yes a crappy cheap or poorly made padlock can be broken with a hammer. so can a cheap anything. Yes steel is stronger than brass - However as i mentioned myself and 3 others spent 45 minutes smashing a brass lock with an axe. After 45 minutes, our axe was stuffed, the gate was bent and one of us had a blister the size of a 50c piece where a bit of hot metal flew off and lodged in his arm. I am over 100kg (just ) and would like to think I can swing an axe pretty hard. This was a $50 lock from Lockwood. I'd like to meet a thief who would spend 45 minutes trying to cut through a lock with an axe and not be heard. You also say the wedge only engages the bolt on one side, also not always true (true for cheapo locks yes), see picture. this is A $40-$50 lock which peeled the teeth off my bolt cutters when i lost the key and it was stuck on my boat trailer. You might be able to get through it with a $300-$400 set of 36-48inch cutters, maybe. But then again a $60 battery powered angle grinder will cut through anything, but it wont be quiet.

Yes you are right that the shank diameter isnt that important. It's more important what its made from. when traveling I take a AssaAbloy with boron shanks and when im locking stuff up at home its an Abus Rock and 16mm high tensile chain. Also no point buy a amazing lock if its stuck on a rubbish chain, both have to be as strong as each other.

Cable locks can be good - But again, if you pay peanuts, you get a monkey. a $15 cable lock will break with a hammer, a $200 one won't, same story with pad locks. Difference is a good quality pad lock is a shite bit cheaper than a good quality cable lock, then then you have to buy the chain Nothing is 100% proof, but if you can stop people doing it quietly, either with cutters or a hack saw then its a big win. I dont know many thieves, but im sure most wouldnt want to use an axe, oxy cutter or angle grinder.

While my bike security is heavy to carry i prefer it to anything else as i know i can walk away and feel confident it will be there when i return. Horses for courses really.

Originally Posted by realmc26

I recently used a 2 metre cable and padlock with my Giant loop in Laos.
I just looped it through the ring on top of the Bag then through my helmet and jacket and around the frame and usually anchored to a pole or similar.

Sure they could cut the Ring away but they cant see where it attaches to the giant loop,all they can see is the cable with the helmet on top.Also I had the lock inside the helmet so they could not see what type of lock it was.

Just used this if I was away from the bike for a short time having lunch or shopping. Enough to deter the opportunistic thief hopefully.

On a bigger trip would still take the cable and lock(quite light) but definitely take a cover.

Originally Posted by croissant_warrior

I am looking into a solo RTW and since I have had my bike stolen off the streets once, want to make sure I do the right thing. I am using soft luggage.

Here are some thoughts open for commentary/advice:

I read in my threads the advantages of a bike cover; I have one but it is a small Aerostitch one, covers mostly the top half of the bike, and not even sure it would cover luggage that was left on bike while shopping at the street market.

I could pack a 1/2" braided cable and small u-lock so the bike is attached to something, if hotel does not have covered/secure parking

I don't think a Packsafe will work when using the Giant Loop Great Basin luggage; maybe a small deterent

I also have a small 3/8" braided steel cable I could use to "secure" the luggage on the bike.

Open for debate.

Alain

Originally Posted by tmotten

Alarms are great. But in Mongolia and Kazakhstan locals set ours off for amusement. They all stood around giving it a kick over and over again. at the same time.