Just rode up from Islamabad to Besham (about 5-6hrs). There were a few police checkpoints but none stopped me. But 30kms out of Besham I had to get an escort into town and now I've got an armed policeman in the lobby. I think there are only two places they will let you stay here. I stayed at the Continental Hotel (2500 rupees). It was cheaper than the govt motel.
I've got a feeling ill be escorted to Chilas tomorrow. I'll let you know.
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