Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Planning, Trip > Trip Transport
ferry Turkmenbashi (TM) - Baku (AZ) ferry Turkmenbashi (TM) - Baku (AZ)
Register FAQ Calendar Today's Posts
Trip Transport Shipping the vehicle and yourself.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



Hill Shipping - Motorcycle and car Shipping Experts!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 24 Jun 2003
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
  
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Genova, Italy - Kabul, Afghanistan
Posts: 201
ferry Turkmenbashi (TM) - Baku (AZ)
Anybody know somethink about the ferry across the Caspian Sea from Turkmenbashi (Turkmenistan) to Baku (Azerbaijan)? I mean timetable, reliability, possible limitations for motorcycle or western travellers, etc..
Thanks a lot
Pietro
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 22 Jul 2010
Contributing Member
HUBB regular
  
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: London
Posts: 46
Just did the crossing - here's my account (from my diary)
*Caspian Sea, 18th July 2010*

And so at 7:00pm, with the help of my Iranian friend, I dashed for the ferry hoping to catch a boat that night. I was in luck. One was due to leave within the hour and had space on board for me (the ferries primarily transport railways carriages trucks of freight, not passengers). The exchange of $200 dollars later (I had been quoted $120 the previous day) and I had a ticket. I was all ready to board but then, of course, Azerbaijan had its last bite of the money cherry. Oh Mr, where Turkmen shtamp? What this? as a rather jolly, or at least he had been five minutes earlier, Azeri customs official looked through my passport. Oh God, how to explain?

I had applied for my Turkmen Visa in London and had a letter of approval to say all was well. I was not to get the actual Visa until I reached Turkmenbashy. (you are allowed five days to get to across Turkmenistan. How long the ferry takes to get there from Baku is anyones guess. So I had arranged for my Visa to be issued upon arrival.

Problem? I said knowingly

 Yes, big problem, You go to consulate and come back

Bollocks.
An hour later, the ferry held, waiting for some extra readies and there was a small breakthrough. An English speaking Azeri customs officer was summoned to the office.

Not possible, what this? as he looked at my letterPerhaps if you have fifty dollars I can help you.
I nearly laughed. I only have ten, your port has claimed the rest! But, I am very upset that you
ask me for a bribe in this situation!

Bribe? He was knocked off balance, No bribe! This bad word! Please no say
my friend. Ok, ok !

I was through.

The ferry across the Caspian was an experience I hope NEVER to repeat in my life. As soon as I was on board I was led to a different cabin than that named on my ticket. It was pretty dire. If I wanted the one listed on my ticket it was extra $20. If I wanted food or water, $10 a pop. (ticket for bike and me cost $200 US!!!)

This Cabin OK I smiled. Yes, Ok if you like ants, shit stained mattresses and the smell of thirty years worth of Caspian bustle thinks me. It had two bunks. I offered the other to a Turkmen, Rustam. He was a professional violin player and returning home to Ashgabat from Baku where he studied. He was about my age and had s, cigarettes and broken English but no money. We got on very well and soon were joking about Azerbaijan and its Polis. And then we were moving - twelve hourswould be on the other shore.

Twelve hours passed and I saw land. I had slept well and was feeling good. If I saw land, it was some time until I was to be on it. The ship dropped anchor at 7 am.. By 2:00pm, chatting in broken English to one of the Naval cadets, I found out the reason for our pause. It transpired that the president of Turkmenstan was visiting this part of Caspian for a holiday to sail his yacht and accordingly, the port would be closed until he left. In this case, Sunday which was three days later. Anyone who knows my impatience would be stunned to hear that I actually accepted this with good humour. Perhaps it was because I already harbored an expectation of delay. It is well known, or at least it alludes on the HUBB that the ferry can easily take 36 hours due to fierce Caspian weather. Anyway, I had Anna Karenina to commence.

Over the following two days, I became well acquainted with the naval cadets, all aged between 20 and 30. I got on particularly well with Boxer, a strapping fellow who I trained and did some light sparing with (putting to good use my Fitzroy Lodge training). I also learned of the Cadets respect for Boss the biggest and meanest looking man on the boat. Boss stormed around filling every corridor with the breadth of his shoulders and casting a very ominous shadow wherever he walked. It turned out Boss had been released from prison last year after being convicted of two murders. The cadets were petrified of him and to be honest, so was I.

Thankfully, Boss looked on me favorably and decided that English, good boy! I was told I should be grateful for his approval so I thanked him. I also asked why he was not in prison. The response came (through a friendly translating cadet). Boss was in prison, for eight years and then, corruption (It seems the inevitable response in Azerbaijan) Boss also says, if you ever have any trouble with Armenians, call Boss, he kill them for you! Hmmm

Waiting for something you want but having no control over it, or knowledge of when it will happen is a torturous pursuit. I knew this and tried to avoid it, instead just letting what would be, be, instead reading my book and writing. Still, when there was hope, every time the anchor chain creaked or an engine was fired up to power the captains air conditioning, my heart jumped with excitement. But worse was being told that we were going to move only for it to be a false start.


At ten thirty on Sunday evening, I was training on deck with Boxer we were doing sets of pushups 50 a set. One goes whilst the other rests (tough) Luckily just as I was about to commence the fourth set, a crew member walked past and said something to Boxer. I immediately enquired what he said. He says we will be in port in one hour!

I couldnt have moved faster. I jumped up questioning really? Then, within five second I bolted down two flights of stairs, through countless gangways and burst into our Cabin. Rustam was lying on his bed smoking a cigarette and reading my Lonely Planet. I jubilantly announced the news. Yeah, Oh yeah, oh yeah!!! We were ecstatic. All of our patience and virtue that we had built up over the past three days evaporated there and then. **** the boat! shouted Rustam. I jumped up and gave him a high five. We then danced like idiots for a minute flat at least. I was doing some sort of Morris jig and Rustam playing air fiddle! I have never been to prison but I think three days on the boat from Baku to Turkmenistan was a rather good try before you buy session. No thanks!
Reply With Quote
Reply

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

ALL Dates subject to change.

2025 Confirmed Events:

  • Virginia: April 24-27 2025
  • Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025
  • Germany Summer: May 29-June 1 2025
  • CanWest: July 10-13 2025
  • Switzerland: Date TBC
  • Ecuador: Date TBC
  • Romania: Date TBC
  • Austria: Sept. 11-15
  • California: September 18-21
  • France: September 19-21 2025
  • Germany Autumn: Oct 30-Nov 2 2025

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

Adventurous Bikers – We've got all your Hygiene & Protection needs SORTED! Powdered Hair & Body Wash, Moisturising Cream Insect Repellent, and Moisturising Cream Sunscreen SPF50. ESSENTIAL | CONVENIENT | FUNCTIONAL.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook

"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

Your ad could be here, on EVERY page of the HUBB, or the whole website, or as many as you like!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 17:14.

Contact Us - Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers Website - Archive - Privacy Statement - Top