Hey guys,

We're currently in Iran and exploring route options toward Turkey. Has anyone traveled Iraqi Kurdistan recently?

It seems like people have been able to travel via bus using the Sulaymaniyah border from Iran and the Zakho border into Turkey. The bus route seems to avoid Mosul and travel through Lalish to the north.

We understand the situation in Kurdistan/Turkey isn't ideal but we're looking for practical information. We have New Zealand passports, 2 motorcycles and understand we should be able to enter Kurdistan without a visa, we have a carnet but information also suggests this shouldn't be required.

Does anyone know how safe Kirkuk is at the moment for travelers? Anybody know anyone in the area that could recommend routes?

We've recently traveled through Kashmir and Balochistan so we've had some experience with regions of instability and are reasonably clued up on the basic precautions.

Any current info would be much appreciated

I drove through in October 2014 and I don't think the visa situation has changed. Check the Lonely Planet Thorntree for info.

There is only one border with Turkey; Imam Khalil / Habur, which is north of Zakho.

There are two border crossings with Iran, the one close to Suleymaniyah is known as Beshmakh on both sides.

I crossed both these borders with a Toyota pickup in October 2014; no real problems though they are not really used to foreign tourists with their own vehicles.

No problem to avoid Mosul

Kirkuk was great when I was there, spent two days and it was by far the most interesting of the cities in the north. It does have a history of bombings and trouble, though generally this seems to have improved since the Kurds took over in June 2014.

Lalish is amazing, highly recommended. Alqosh also. Mar Mattai was a bit close to ISIS for safety at the time (you could already hear shelling around Alqosh).

My route was Beshmaq - Halabja - Suleymaniyah - Kirkuk - Erbil - Soran - Amedia - Lalish - Alqosh - Ibrahim Khalil.

I don't think Iraq recognises the carnet, I did not use mine. I paid about $20 for a TIP when entering and a few more when I left. Did not buy insurance.

Good luck,

EO

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Thanks for the reply. Good to hear most places in that area felt relatively safe although yes things change quickly so we'll ask around for some more recent info about some of those spots. Thanks for the tips about lalish and Alqoah - def on our to visit list now

StepThruPanAm, did you do the trip with the bikes?
Would apppreciate your first hand experince.

Hi there,


I have just successfully ridden through Iraqi Kurdistan ( cycling ).


I entered through the Beshmakh border crossing ( Marivan/Iran to Suleymaniyah ) and exited at the Ibrahim Khalil border crossing ( Zakho to Silopi/Turkey ).


Iraqi Kurdistan felt very safe, at least in the areas I was in ( my route was Suleymaniyah-Dukan-Koya-Erbil-Soran-Barzan-Amedi-Zakho ). I was there for a couple of weeks, although I was given a one month visa at the border. I obviously stayed clear of Kirkuk and Mossul. Lots of checkpoints everywhere but no real hassles. The route up north along the Iranian and Turkish borders is stunningly beautiful in the spring. I freecamped when I had to, if not there are plenty of cheap hotels near the bazaars in every town. People are welcoming, but more reserved than their Iranian counterparts.


Turkish Kurdistan is a different story. The vibes are bad, and the army is all over the place, a consequence of the 2015-2016 Kurdish uprising in the area. Towns like Silopi, Cizre and Midyat are really, really tense. The checkpoints are thorough, all of my stuff was searched on a few occasions. Outsiders are viewed with extreme suspicion by the Turkish military. Don't expect smiles. I had to change my route a few times. From Silopi I looped around west to Midyat and up to Hasankeyf, Batman and eventually Tatvan. I couldn't use the straight route from Silopi to Tatvan via Sirnak and Siirt. The tension eases up a notch when you reach Lake Van. Also note that the road that skirts the Iranian border South of Dogubayazit is currently closed : I was stopped by the army up the pass 40 kms short of town and was unceremoniously turned back. The only way to get there is via Ercis and Agri.


Hope that helps.


Levelo.

Thanks @eurasiaoverland and @Levelo for the updates. I'll be coming into Iraqi Kurdistan via Ibrahim Khalil in August on a motorcycle, traveling across to Erbil and Suleymaniyah via some of the sights. I'm considering leaving my bike in Erbil for a break and coming back in a few months... not sure if anyone knows how strict they are on their import/export regs but I hear it's a great place with great people.

If anyone has a list of must see places, let me know...

Keep moving!

Charlie

Hi guys. Do you have any updates about Iraqi Kurdistan from this summer? Considering same route from Suleimaniah to Silopi/Zakho.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I arrived into the Kurdistan region on a KTM990 from Turkey at the Ibrahim Khalil crossing on 23rd Aug and am still in the area. You mention traveling from Sulaymaniyah/Slemani to Silopi/Zakho... and that is a very secure route if you dnt stray too far south e.g. to Mosul or Kirkuk.

I rode from the border crossing to Dohuk, then Amedi, Barzan to Soran, then south East to Slemani. I went on to visit Halabja and the Iran border region east of there... Tawela is beautiful. Since then I went over to Erbil...

There are security check points in Kurdistan every 30-40km. They are, of course, more sensitive near the borders and on routes to conflict areas.

In Turkey, there were checkpoints that became more rigorous within 100km of the Ibrahim Khalil border. I avoided saying that I was going to Iraq as that makes them twitchy, I just mentioned the next big town ahead, but eventually, the road only goes to one place and there's no alternative. At that point, I said I was crossing into Iraq and I was held for 90 minutes while the local police got clearance from someone up the chain.

In Turkey don't use the word "Kurdistan"... that might be obvious, but it makes them take against you.

The Kurdish are amazingly hospitable and make great tea... but August is hot!!

Happy traveling

Charlie

Hi I am interested in travelling from Turkey to Azerbaijan through Iran . Or possibly from Iraq through Iran.

I will be riding a Honda Goldwing so I need some form of hard stable surface.
I would really appreciate it if any of you could let me know the road quality.
Hard earth sand and loose stones are no good on the goldwing.
Thanks for your time.
John

I m planing this August my trip ro Iraq, any updates?

2 nights ago 15 members of an Iraqi paramilitary unit from Basrah were killed when they were abushed by reminents of IS in the area of Kirkuk

Also the Turks attacking the PKK positions in Northern Kurdistan is still continuing for the third day.

IS killed 20 Iraqi security personnel, night of 18th Feb South West of the Kirkuk area

I am not saying dont go.......but just remember to stay alert a lot of people do it safely and having worked up there years ago its a nice place
Currently in Basrah now.
Also things maybe different in a few weeks, months.


Wayne

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hi,

Today I reached Iraqi Consulate in the UK, they have told me that they do not issue Tourist Visas to enter Iraqi Kurdistan (Only business, Journalist ...). They told me I can try again and ask in Summer.

Are there any other information out there about possible visit of Iraqi Kurdistan? I am going to Iran (From the EU) in spring and was planning to go through Iraq...

North Iraq-Kurdistan it is safe to ride
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...5&share_type=t

Asphalt all the way on the main roads.

You can enter the Kurdish regions of Iraq (KRG) without an Iraqi visa, but you must stay in kurdish-controlled areas.

There has recently been an attack on Kurdish forces by the Iranians from across the border. This happened in Koya (roughly halfway between Erbil and Sulaymaniyah). Something to monitor. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-m...-idUSKCN1LO0KZ

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EurasiaOverland a memoir of one quarter of a million kilometres by road through all of the Former USSR, Western and Southern Asia.