Hi, I just felt the need to post a brief account of what I have done in Pakistan. I am a solo rider with a British passport going from the UK to Nepal.
I spent three weeks driving through Iran and had an excellent time there, everybody very friendly.
I crossed into Pakistan at Taftan, on the 29th July and left at Wagah on the 1st September. In that month I have driven over 4000 MILES. I spent most of my time in the North driving from Lahore up the KKH to Gilgit. This I used as a base to go out to Scardu, Hushie and the Deosai plain. I then continued up the KKH to Karimabad then onto the Khunjerab pass, the border with China. Crossing the lake with my motorbike by boat Fantastic. Then from Gilgit I drove to Chitral going over the Shandur pass. Driving this way to Chitral you DON'T need an NOC permit, going from the other direction you do. Unfortunately I couldn't drive to visit the Kalash as the road had been washed away in two places, so had to walk and catch transport on the other side of the landslide. Then from Chitral down south and back to Lahore.
The point I am trying to make is that the whole time I have been in Pakistan I have received nothing but friendship, generousity and kindness. A lot of Pakistani people are really finding it Tough at the moment. The tourist industry has been hit really hard this year. In the Month that I was there I only met less than 12 Europeans, there are a few Japanese and Korean's. I am not telling everybody to drop everything and go to Pakistan, YES there are SECURITY issues, yes you do get ARMED ESCORTS in some places.May be I was lucky. All that I can say from my personal experience is that I really loved my time there and was sorry to leave.

Inshallah I will return.

Thank you digger1 - this is helpful info.

Just a couple of questions, if I may:

1. How did you go about organising your Iranian visa?

2. I assume you had already sorted your Pak visa before leaving the UK, right?

Thanks again

Keith
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Hi Keith,

I got my Iranian LOI through Persian voyages £80, more expensive than others but worth it as they were quick. I then flew to Dublin to get my visa issued, a. £40 flight return to Bristol.Do not use Iranianvisa, I have tried twice on two different occasion to use them and have not been impressed with there 'service' or lack off!. This is my own personal experience, other people might have had more luck??.

Yes I got my Pakistan visa in the UK, I used Lost Horizons Trek & Tours from Gilgit, Pakistan to help with the supporting documents. Good service.

I hope this helps.

Hi Digger, you don't mention the situation with the police in Chitral, still the same re escorts ? Also which route you took from Chitral to Lahore ?
Cheers UB.

Hi uselessbaba,

As mentioned it was a brief post, the situation in Chitral is that you have personal protection where ever you go in town. An armed policeman in plain clothes. Mine was a very nice man who I spent 4 days with, he even had to come with me when I went to visit the Kalash. Over the top in my opinion. The journey from Gilgit to Chitral I only had two police escorts for no more than 40kms of the entire distance, this could very well be different for the next person. The escorts vary from place to place.
I then drove south from Chitral over the Lowri pass, very dusty (the tunnel still isn't finished,but they are working on it) to Mardan, where I spent the night,then onto Lahore. On this section I had no escorts, again this could be different for the next person. I personally had to go to the police station in Mardan to check in an inform the police I was staying the night in town.

I hope this helps.

Hi Digger, I was in Baltistan on my bike for 6 weeks last year, we actually had a young cop called Abdul escorting us in Chitral on his own bike ( a 125cc honda), he also accompanied us as far as the Lowrie tunnel, the pass was closed, so we went through the tunnel and stayed the night in Dir. I doubt it will ever be 'finished'. I just wondered if the situation had changed, as I personally didn't like having 24hr police 'protection', young Abdul even slept outside our room at the Chitral inn !
UB.

Thanks for your post, am really excited about spending some time Pakistan soon.

Was going to be next year but I am having to delay until 2015 due to work and funds

Hi Digger1,

I'm about to enter Pakistan on Thursday 24/10. Then head up the KKH from Lahore/Islamabad (Besham via Mansehra) to Gilgit/Hunza and return (Muzaffarabad via Babusar Pass, if possible). Did you need any NOC for these regions?

If yes, where did you get them?

Got any useful tips? recommendations?

Jon

Hi Jon,

You will need an NOC to leave Quetta, easy to get. If you stay at the Bloomstar they will inform the police which will collect you and take you to the correct goverment building. They will wait for you while the NOC is issued might take a few hours. If I remember right no fee.

I tried to drive the road from Mansehra to the Babusar pass stopped after 30kms at check point and informed closed to tourists unless you have an NOC. So I did'nt bother.

The KKH you don't need an NOC, but you will be escorted by the police until Gilgit. These escorts are hit and miss. In my mind on the KKH you are better of with out them, as you have more freedom. ie drive at what speed you like. But little choice.

Drive the road out to Skardu, amazing. If you have time continue on to Hushe. Last 30kms off road with some tricky bits. Basic hotels in Hushe. Or drive up to the Deosai plains to the lake. Again off road after the lake near Skardu. Don't go if it's been raining the road up is hard enough.

Do continue up the KKH to the China border, going over the lake with your bike was a highlight for me. 500 rupees one way. I managed to get my bike right to the arched building that divides China and Pakistan. New tarmac all the way to the top. But maybe now it will be too cold??.

In Lahore I stayed at the Lahore Backpackers. I don't know the address but it is in the very next street to International Internet hostel, or some name very close to that. They also have parking 2 minutes away in a locked garage.

I don't know it it is allowed or not but in Abbottabad I went to see what is left of Bin Laden's former home, now demolished. The floor slab is still visable.

Enjoy Pakistan, I loved it.

Cheers for the tips Digger1. I'm excited about going myself. I've got a few contacts in Pakistan that are helping me out but its good to get some tips from another traveller.

Crossing the border tomorrow. Can't wait!!

We also just got a new Visa for Pakistan!

When we went there last year we could stay only one month and was defenetely not enough!

Will wait for next summer though...
I'm already hyper excited about it!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

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Hi All,

I've made it as far as Besham o.k. I did have 3 police escorts today from Battagram to Besham. Friendly enough, just slows you down a little. Heading for Gilgit/Karimabad tomorrow. No NOC required so far.

Jon

Hi BigO, in Gilgit stay at Medina inn, clean, cheap and safe parking in Hunza (Karimabad) roof of the world is a good cheapy. I also tried to get to Muzzafarabad last year and was turned back, you will not get into AZK without an NOC, end of !
UB.

Hi All,

I've just returned to Islamabad from 10 days up the KKH. It was awesome. Escorts started from Battagram as far as Thakot bridge just south of Gilgit. Most of the time I had a guard in my vehicle passenger seat so it didn't so me up to much. After that I was free to travel by myself.

I stayed at Besham Continental Hotel (1500r per night) in Besham, Hunza View Hotel (1000r) in Karimabad and Passu Ambassador (1000r) in Passu. They were all good. I local Pakistani friend arranged these places for me so I got a special price apparently.

Besham I required a guard to go out for a walk in the evening but there wasn't much to see to be honest.

Karimabad in the Hunza valley was sensational. The autumn leaves made for a beautiful sight.

I crossed the lake with my landcruiser no problem. It cost me 3000r each way. It was one hell of a ride on the little boat.

Passu was a good spot as a based to drive up to the border at the Khunjerab Pass. It was bloodly freezing.


Note: they wouldn't let me go up to the border for a look because I was travelling with a British passport. (Same for Americans as well). Fortunately I have a New Zealand passport too. A little banter about the cricket and I was on my way.

The Babusar Pass is now closed. I also tried to come back via Muzaffarabad but they wouldn't let me because I didn't have an NOC. So had to retrace my steps back to Mahsehra. The road past Murree is lovely as well.

I have to second Digger1's thoughts. Fantastic place to visit, very friendly people and one of my trip highlights. North of Gilgit is pretty safe. I didn't see any problems anywhere, that's not to say there aren't any though.

Hi BigO,

Glad you had a fantastic time. I also really enjoyed the trip across the lake.