I got in a short "backpacking" trip to Nepal and I found Kathmandu to be OK for me. Sure, it is dusty, crowded, full of people, traffic, rickshaws, bicycles, motorbikes and sacred cows, but it is lively and the capital has vitality + the locals, throughout the country are very friendly.
I didn't feel ripped off, but I have worked and lived in countries where there are at least two economies - that for the local people and another, more expensive one, for the expats/visitors. I am happy with this when the circumstances warrant it; in the case of Nepal, they have come through significant political turmoil and civil war so they are only now dealing with the associated problems. Most of the population are still, literally, dirt poor.
I did do some haggling over prices, but not too strongly on my part.

As for the driving, those vehicles are talking to each other by using their vehicle horns; it seemed to me that the use of a horn by a vehicle was well recognised by those it was aimed at and those hearing it reacted correctly - here in the UK, the use of the horn is usually an act of beligerance, to be ignored, or worse, by those it is aimed at!


Just to confirm, Hearts and Tears is based in Pokhara, about 200 Km west of KTM ( i.e. it is not in the capital) and it is closed; in fact, around the time I visited Pokhara H & T was advertised as up for sale; I spoke with some folks there who explained that the owner had contracted cancer and had returned to the UK for treatment.

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Dave