My first post on the forum
Looks like this post has been around a while. But as i've just stumbled on it i'm sure i won't be the last. So for what it is worth, here's my 2 cents..
Repeat traveller to and rider in VN. First few times I went i hired a bike in Saigon (Pham Ngu Lao). First time i tried 5 'shops' before i could find one that would rent out for an indefinite period and number of km's. The others would only let them out if i stayed local. Had to forfeit passport, and kept colour copies of it for the hotel checkins. I never went to far that time, just to Ba-Ria Vung Tau and Dong Nai provinces. Subsequent trips travelled most of the country on bikes borrowed from friends.
Every time i've been i've only ridden, never bus or drivers. Everytime i've been stopped at least once, usually more times. Sometimes my own fault for speeding on the highways (like 80km/h when most are only 60). One time i'm sure it was a dubious 'roadworks zone' at 40km/h limit. Most other times i was spotted weaving through the trucks and cars so couldn't complain.
Had wide variety of experiences.
1) The gun toting top gun guy who's patience i tested by pretending not to speak vietnamese (moto bike, my firend, ho chi minh, bike my friend) who yelled at me in Vietnamese to just 'p*** off' and i gt away without a fine.
2) Being given a caution down in the delta (when i was doing that weaving i mentioned). Was fascinating for the locals to watch me, i think they were perplexed why no cash or paperwork was exchanged!
3) Being fined proper. Not advisable if you're in a hurry... Fine on afternoon day 1. Overnight in nearby provincial centre (Vung tau that ime so i as lucky i knew my way around... but i WAS on my way to Mui Ne on the south coast). Next morning to main office to register. Sent to cashiers office on the other side of town. Then sent back with the receipt to the main office. By that time spent a second night in town before day 3 getting on my way.
4) My now preferred method, in some ways, and no in others. Nam Tram. 500K dong. About 20-25 dollars. Mentioned by one expat on here already. Never leave home without it now. First time i cottoned onto this they were loading up locals bike on the back of the truck (confiscating them until the fines were paid). There's a place underground next to a carpark in Saigon where there are hundreds of cobweb covered bikes i imagine started out like this. I was asked around the back of the truck with the fine book. Nam Tram is a bit rich compared to local doations but i'm not complaining. I don't ever have an A1 or an A2 license, and often no rego papers.
International license states accepted in VN. It isn't. I always carry my one from my country but just for photo ID purposes. I've ridden everywhere, anytime and crack downs or no crack dons, between my 5 tram and Viet language skills, and a happy manner with the guys it's no trouble at all.
Beware now, road cops have breathalisers and radar guns. I was zapped by a guy hidden in a car who radioed his mates down the road with my description and speed. This was on a rural route in Nhon Trach (back way to Vung Tau from Saigon).
Hope this helps some future travellers! Happy to catch up by PM/email however it works on HUBB) if anyone's interestd down the track. I've written an unofficial guide to the 'road rules' and 'etiquite' in VN. Propbably be my next post!
Stay vertical!