Has anybody used a Husqvarna for their trips? I've got the chance to get one as a rebuild 'project' and would like some views as to whether or not it's up to the job of RTW and, if it is, are there any mods/frame strengthening tips that would be beneficial.

Thanks

John

The TE/TC/SM610 is really not suited to long distance, high stress, low maintenance travel. Ive been a Husqvarna mechanic for 6 years and the number of problems I've seen on the 610 model would really put me off taking one on an adventure, even if it was very cheap/free.

The main issues are:

The rocker arm shafts wear very quickly due to poor oiling/design which is easily diagnosed as a rattle from the top of the motor, a quick fix is to turn them 180 degrees which quiets it down but they'll wear even faster once that done. We've replaced these on brand new machines after 6000 miles on some customers machines, and they dont exactly abuse them.

When the camchains stretch, they can hit the crankcase reed valve assembly which accelerates the wear on the camchain, sounds like a stick in a lawnmower and spreads bits of the reed valve all around the inside of the motor.

The epoxy on the generator cracks off and floats round the motor, finds its way into the oil pump and wears that out.

The coating inside the motor can also flake off and contaminate the oil.

The airbox inlet is on the side of the airbox, only just above the motor. Any substantial river crossing will drown the motor unless the airbox is modified.

There is no rubber cush drive in the rear wheel, so youll feel every power pulse and the chain and sprockets will wear pretty fast.

The fuel economy of the 610 is poor from standard and rejetting to improve running only seems to make it worse.

Husqvarna spares back up is terrible. Even in the first world. They arent exported to anyway exotic as far as i know and they certainly dont share any parts with any Japanese/chinese bikes.

All Husqvarna bikes are designed first and foremost to be competition bikes. Things like comfort, reliability, range, ease of maintenance and repair are way down the list.

I race a Husqvarna 250 mx bike and its great for that. But the thought of sitting on one for weeks, months, years sends aches, and shivers up my arse!

Having said all that, if you do make it, you deserve a knighthood

Thanks Pancho, I guess I'm not knighthood material though so I'll be giving this beast a miss. Your reply was pretty thorough and, like you, I can do without the shivers up my arse!

Again, thanks for your guidance.

John

Now . . . the TE 630, the replacement for the 610 is FI, has the 610's good bottom-end but a much improved top-end (valve-train) and . . . would be alot more suitable.

The airbox issue remains.

630's can be found fairly cheaply as they were blown out last year, some for as little as $6000 US in north America.

You'll need the Husky FI "PowerUp" kit ($40) and JDJetting (or similar) FI reprogramming kit ($200).

But that bike runs and handles great, has a wide-ratio tranny, cush drive, easy access to racks, larger fuel tanks, aluminum sub-frame, etc.

Having just ridden a 950 KTM from Frankfurt to Mongolia via the Turkey & the 'Stans solo I'll add that you SHOULD know the bike well beforehand so you're prepared for any issues AND . . . I'll use a TE 630 soon on a more remote long-range run.

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Thanks Genghis, it sounds amuch better option. However, I think I'll be looking at something more mainstream and popular!

Hi guys,

I use a 2006 Husqvarna TE610e in desert racing in Chile and after 10.000km of pure competition use never found any technical problems. I think from 2006onwards there engines are bullet proof. I believe the bike is great for extreme off road touring and capable of almost everything, but with a lack of rider´s comfort. So if you think about a long trip and occationally hit pavement, a bike like the Yamaha 660 Tenere is a lot better (I did northern Chile, Bolivia and Peru on a Tenere last year- perfect!)

Get the DRZ . . . it's reliable as hell, once you take care of a few small issues (stator bolts, primary drive, RTV on the waterpump impeller, etc), ditch the PAIR valve and re-jet and if you use a good oiled air filter - do the 3x3 mod and it'll be more powerful AND get better economy. Make sure the fork's have new bushings/seals and fluid and well-conditioned, good fitting boots. Try to re-lube the swingarm bearings and the linkage . . . classic problem spots on that bike.

Try to pack light . . . I "like" my DRZ but will never love it. Kind of like a reliable donkey. The handling is numb.

With a DRZ the ride will be about the road, not the bike.

But there are LOTS of reliable bikes out there . . . and it's ALOT easier to work on a Husky/KTM/BMW that it is on something from Japan that's even vaguely modern.

On a long walk, a good pair of shoes is critical. On a long ride a good bike is critical. Shoes can't be fun. A motorbike can.

Kurt

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Orange, it's the new black.