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13 Jan 2017
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The franglais-riders
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
I don't believe that burning oil is attributed to them being small bikes. Both my WRR's and previously TTR didn't burn oil. This sounds more like it wasn't worn in properly. The rings need to be seated right straight of the bat. For this the engine needs to get worked for the first 100km or so.
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Well, our small bikes are all old and have been trashed by previous owners / amateurs "mechanics" who have seriously messed up stuff tinkering with the engines. No amount of prepping up the bike can go through everything unless spending too much on those old steeds.
All our small bikes consumed oil through our trips. We had to add some on occasion.
We never had those issue on old "big - aka 650cc FI " bikes. Mainly because they contain much more oil that small bikes? I don't know. All I know is that all our small (old 2d hand) bikes have needed to keep a close eye (and top up ) oil very regularly.
It could be different on new small bikes these days. Ours are 10 year + and off eBay.
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13 Jan 2017
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Registered Users
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The technology is the same. Compression ratios do change. But saying small bikes burn more oil is like saying small bikes break more head light bulbs more often. My first 650 went through oil. All my other bikes didn't. We baby'd the first 650 after a rebuild. I have no doubt that's the reason.
If your burns that much oil that it's an issue I'd open it up and see if the piston needs changing or new rings and the cylinder needs work.
It's another reason I like new bikes. I know how it was worn in.
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13 Jan 2017
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Location: Back into the hamster wheel again, in Oslo - Norway. Did a 5 year RTW trip/250 k kms, 2014-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
The technology is the same. Compression ratios do change. But saying small bikes burn more oil is like saying small bikes break more head light bulbs more often. My first 650 went through oil. All my other bikes didn't. We baby'd the first 650 after a rebuild. I have no doubt that's the reason.
If your burns that much oil that it's an issue I'd open it up and see if the piston needs changing or new rings and the cylinder needs work.
It's another reason I like new bikes. I know how it was worn in.
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Smaller bikes are often ridden harder and tougher than bigger bikes and by that I mean at higher rpms and more of the tourqe are used in general. If you ride a 250 like a 650 valves, valveguides, pistonrings etc will wear out faster and start to use oil earlier on. Simple as that I belive....
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13 Jan 2017
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That's true and that has a consequence on the degrading and service interval of the oil depending on the volume of oil that they have. Burning it is not a consequence of that. It should be a sealed system. Well designed or built engines are better than worse ones off course. But that's not a factor here.
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14 Jan 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
That's true and that has a consequence on the degrading and service interval of the oil depending on the volume of oil that they have. Burning it is not a consequence of that. It should be a sealed system. Well designed or built engines are better than worse ones off course. But that's not a factor here.
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Well Im not a mechanical expert but with worn pistonrings and/or ditto valveguides etc an engine will start using/burning oil - the way I have understood it at least. But I might be wrong....
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14 Jan 2017
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That's right. Has nothing to do with engine size though is my point
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14 Jan 2017
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It's not that small bikes burn more or less oil than bigger bikes. It's that smaller bikes have less oil to begin with. Whereas on a bike with 3L oil capacity can lose 500cc and still run fine, a bike that only carries 1L of oil could blow an engine if it loses 500cc. That's why I check the oil more frequently on a small bike. But really, whatever the bike, if you're on tour you should check it at least once a day.
On the positive side, a small oil capacity can be good in certain cases. Blew a clutch deep in the jungle. I had 700cc of spare oil. Replaced the clutch, changed the oil and kept going. Not easy to carry an entire oil change on a bigger bike, but with a small engine you can get away with it.
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14 Jan 2017
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Yup. I change it more frequent but it's really quick.
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16 Jan 2017
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I'm a bit green here so can anyone enlighten me on oil change intervals of bikes of this size... I read on the TTR forum that the TTR250 should have a change every 600miles.
...Is this accurate and true of all 250's?
...Would this not be a royal pain in the arse on a RTW?
Cheers 
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16 Jan 2017
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Engine oil change intervals is dependant by the engine characteristics (high performance or a tractor, etc) and the amount it carries. Oil degrades so the more you have in there the longer the change interval. That amount changes for every bike. The TTR was originally a race bike so they don't need to carry much oil. Dunno about the interval anymore. But if you're selecting a bike that would be a key parameter.
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16 Jan 2017
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R.I.P.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny Gauguin
I'm a bit green here so can anyone enlighten me on oil change intervals of bikes of this size... I read on the TTR forum that the TTR250 should have a change every 600miles.
...Is this accurate and true of all 250's?
...Would this not be a royal pain in the arse on a RTW?
Cheers |
As mentioned, oil capacity plays a big role here. 250's don't hold much, so more frequent changes in order. But some other factors at play:
If just cruising at moderate speed/rpm the oil will not be stressed as much, so longer interval may be possible.
If you could always have access to quality synthetic MC oil, this too could extend change interval. Going RTW, don't count on this.
Only So-So no name oil means YOU MUST do more frequent changes.
Many 250's will use some oil if ridden very hard, under load and kept at or near
redline. Otherwise, very little oil should be consumed by most of the bikes listed so far.
The TTR's are good tough bikes if you can find a "fresh" one that can do a full RTW and get it set up right. Old tech but a good one.
But for me .... first choice is WR250R. 2nd CRF250L. The WR has more power over CRF, better suspension too. Both reliable.
Those two things alone put WR250R 1st in my book.
Yes, more money but for all round riding (especially off road) Yamaha WR gets my vote.
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16 Jan 2017
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The Australian TTR manual suggests first oil change at 600 miles, then every 6000 miles thereafter. The US one says every 1000 miles. In the US they were sold as off-roaders only (although they could be road registered) which would suggest an expectation of hard dirt road use. Common sense would indicate that the owner should vary the interval depending on usage and quality of oil available, and I think this probably applies to all makes and sizes of bike.
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16 Jan 2017
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17 Jan 2017
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Nice. Dave built my first ever bike. He knows his stuff. Not a big fan of that fuel tank and headlight rack. Had fuel on the back like that on mine too. Good if you just poodle I guess.
I'd still take a WRR over that.
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17 Jan 2017
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Go the Ttr. Totally ttrs in the U.K. Is the spot to buy everything to set a Ttr up. I am 6 foot 2 and 110kg of chubbiness and I love mine. You can get a lowering link to drop it 2'inches without really affecting the ride if you are short.
I got sick of picking up heavy bikes off road including two GS's a DR and a KLR. I like the Ttr more than all of them. Yes it's a 250, yes it's quite tall standard but these are things you can live with or adapt. I've owned 18 bikes now over more than 20 years and the little-bike-that-could Ttr has been the most grin inducing, reliable bike yet.
The Ttr has a pumper carb for great low down response. The suspension is way better than a DR. An XR fuel tank from acerbis bolts straight on for 23lt of fuel with a kit from zen overland or totally ttrs. Get a bashplate and rack and you're done. Totally fun, reliable and awesome little bike.
Can you tell i love mine?
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