okay many thanks guys

It has given me something to mull over. I will let you all know when I have selected the right bike

+1

__________________
3mountainsadventure

We used our 100GS to travel from Devon to Cape Town in 1991/2. We were two up with 90 odd kg of luggage. The shaft survived only finally expiring in France on the way back. The bike really doesn't have a hydraulic clutch as my overdevelopped left forearm will contest. It also doesn't have a kickstart although one can be fitted but the bike is very easy to bump start on a solid surface.

We still have the bike which is used for regular trips and if I was to go back to Africa it would be the only choice. I also have a KTM690 which is much lighter, much more economical, much better off road etc. there's no room for the missus!

EDIT: Having now read some of the other comment I ought to mention that our gearbox survived but it is a known weakpoint, you will need to be a competent mechanic because these are old bikes with some inherent problems. The early G/S subframe was weak but can either be modified or replaced with the 100GS one which is stronger. The wheels/tyres on the GS (not G/S) are tubeless which proved to be a liability in Africa so we soon fitted tubed tyres. The GS has the paralever driveshaft which has 2 ujs which are known to fail. The G/S shaft s stronger/more reliable. Front forks on the G/S are poor. The OE rear shocks on both models are crap.

David as you are obviously obsessively worried about not being able to start your eventual choice of motorcycle, here is one solution that will 'fit' all brands.
It is also a cheaper alternative to your 'finding/fitting' a kick start; it would be to have one of those tiny portable power packs no bigger than an old Walkman. I use mine to recharge all my electronic stuff via its usb output and as a backup to start my fuel injected F650 if necessary.
It can be recharged via mains or 12volts. Having the right tool for the right job is very good for keeping blood pressure normal.

p.s there are a bunch of other non-electrical related things which can prevent you from starting your moto especially in Africa...!

Some nicely done R65s here- no hydraulic clutch but worth a look I reckon
Rooney Cycles | Rooney Cycle

__________________
Our FB page: https://en-gb.facebook.com/Africa2Up/

I agree some lovely bikes there. The hydraulic clutch as standard is not a big concern as I have seen some nice custom solutions which I may do.

Plus whoever said hydraulic clutches are overrated I disagree. Anything that makes the clutch lighter is a bonus, as I had an industrial accident some years ago and now experience pain in my hands. I can live with this pain, but why make things harder for yourself if you don't have to? Plus the hydraulic clutch means easier maintenance as there is no cable stretch to deal with.

Hydraulic clutch on small cc bikes are not common. KTM dirt bikes have them ... but their Japanese competition have a LIGHTER pull on their cable clutches.

Cable stretch is a malady left over from 60's/70's Brit and Spanish bikes. Not much of an issue on modern bikes.

My 9 year old DR650 original clutch cable is now at 65K miles ... pull is a bit heavy now (wear), but no stretch, no adjustment required. A new cable is due now but no rush. :smarts:


Comparing my V-Strom 1000 (hydraulic) vs. my cable clutch 1050 Triumph Tiger ... almost NO difference in pull effort. Some hydraulic units are better ... some not so great. Be careful what you wish for. A hydraulic clutch is just one more thing that can go wrong and one more thing to maintain.

A properly engineered and maintained cable clutch should not be high effort ... especially on a 650cc or smaller bike.

JUST about my own experience .
Point one : the weight is depending of the type of travel.
A good twin old style will be good and not expensive, easy to fix, to look after
Like an old kind of BMW ( air cooled, series 6 or more NOT 4 cylinders)
or any 500 honda, kawasaki or suz'

point two ; if the roads are not good , a trail will be better .
A XT a DR or else , old style too ( i dont like transalps too heavy or 1000 stuff like varadero, DL etc )

point three; clutch cable is easy to fix , a kick si nice BUT in trouble on dirt tracks a starter is nice ( recently tested on morocco tracks with the drz , yes , hard ones ! )

and so , no way to choose the bike first , except if you have it
choose your trip
the weight to carry , the roads/tracks to take
and then ask AND TEST SEVERAL ONES
and ,
mostly
TRAIN
good trip

riding since 72
north cap in 74 with a stinger 125 Suz
France to Dar es Salaam in 80 on a good old times' XT
touring in tracks on morocco withe a DRZ
curving in Pyrenees with a Brutale 800