AT, definitely.

More aftermarket parts
More comfortable on asphalt & better off
More reliable - has the magic Hona badge
Engine understressed
Lots about - you'll find a good one
Build quality is brilliant

Everyone who has a SuperTen has one because they couldn't afford an AT, in my experience.


I rode one with 128,000 miles on it the other day and it felt like new. Amazing.

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=-=-= ON THE EDGE! =-=-=
My XR650L Pan-Med Expedition Site!

Thank you all for your replies. It seems to me that the AT is the way to go (or ride?), even if giorgioXT makes a good point regarding the XTZ. And thanks for pointing out the model shift issue, Frode. Wasn't it also a different and somewhat higher bhp output in the earlier 750 models (91-93?)than in later ones?

Again: Thank you all. AT it is for me, then.

Ride safe!
Regards
Indu

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HansP
All you wanted to know
about riding in Norway

If i'm not wrong about bhp
RD03 58 bhp 1988-1989
RD04 59 bhp 1990-1992
RD07 62 bhp 1993-1995
RD07/a 60 bhp 1996-2003

And as i see it:

RD04
+ Suspension-better and rebuildable
+ Stronger frame
+ Higher
+ Fuel light

- Weight
- Fuel economy
- Airfilter

RD07
+ Lower center of gravity
+ Airfilter
+ Lighter

- Suspension not rebuildable
- Fuel pump
- No warning light for low fuel

RD07/a
As RD07 but with even cheaper suspension parts with no adjusment besides spring preload on the back.

RD07 and up is equiped with safty rims that makes roadeside repair more difficoult.But may save your ass when having a puncture, loaded up with passenger and equipment.



[This message has been edited by frnas (edited 29 January 2004).]

Some confusion here... the XLV750 is Honda's offroad shaft drive (1985 and 1986). Africa Twins are all chain-drive XRV650s and XRV750s. All great bikes, mind you.

Just rode my 1990 AT 12,000 km through Europe. No problems. My 1992 AT has now done 70,000 km around Oz and still feels like a new bike.

My four Honda V-Twins (XLV750, XRV600, XRV750, XRV750) have done a total 250,000 km without any major problems. Sold the 1990 XRV750 to a young bloke in Holland... and he's rapt. He rode a similar AT around NZ
and crossed Oz the hard way, without any problems.

Africa Twins rule. OK?

Paul



------------------
ozcan

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ozcan

Hi Everyone


Go the Africa Twin Bring them back into production as they were.
Dont have one and unless they are bought back into production am never likley to have one here in OZ
Being mechanically minded I love their reports, their apperance alone is a stand out in the crowd.

Cheers Champ
Go the AT

Sorry, another AT vote here. Mine was a 1998. Just run-in at 19,000miles when I got her.

The bits that break are well known and fixable in advance (fuel pump, choke cable, regulator/rectifier). Can't imagine why the frame needs strengthening - we did brighton2capetown with loaded, large, metalmules. The bike was well over 300kg on the scales and the subframe was straight even after all the crashing I indulged in! People are carrying that AND a pillion too. I did replace the rear shock with an Ohlins partly because the originals are ALL tired by now and the variable ride-height adjuster was a nice thing to play with out in Africa.

__________________
Find out details of my 2011 trip to Siberia on a lightweight dirtbike:
www.brighton2expeditions.co.uk

Over the last 19 Years i drove 160000 km with my ST in Australia,NZ,US,Asia,Europ.
No Breakdown's, exept Weelpunkture,s.
New Valveseats at 70000 km was all wich was be done on the Engine.

Now everything on the Bike is worrn out, but the Bike is still running Superb.

Greetings Peter

Yep, you're right. XRV - not XLV. On the ruling issue, however, I'd guess there are some dicrepancies between your view and, say, the average BMW rider ;-)

__________________
HansP
All you wanted to know
about riding in Norway

I have had XTZ 750, now riding XTZ 660, several friends ride AfricaTwin. My opinion XTZ 750 vs. XLV 750? Africa apsolutely!

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AnteK

i used an XTZ 750 to go from England to Cape Town in 1995 2 up and then solo around the middle east for 2 years in 2000/1.

Because it was cheap to buy, I bought h/d white power fork springs, and an Ohlins rear shock because I knew the suspension would take a hammering and left the engine standard.

the bike was 100 per cent reliable on both trips despite minimal maintenance

Super Tenere's biggest problem is a weak frame, specially around the upper engine mounting bolts - bit of welding needed to strengthen it properly.

The engines last: I've seen several Supers with +200.000 km in their clock without any greater problems. Biggest reason for reported bad mpg is wear of carb needles and specially needle tubes - have to replace them every 30.000 km or so. The nature of the engine is more rev-happy compared to AT; some say it's because of the tilted carbs of Yamaha's Genesis concept giving on-off response (also the position is the reason for needle tube wear), some say because ST pushes 10hp more than AT. I'm happy with certain point-and-shoot power delivery; certainly a big grin factor on gravel roads...

Parts availability shouldn't be any problem specially since the differences between year models are mostly different colours and stickers... The best EU source for parts & accessories must be German KEDO (http://www.kedo.com) - specialized in 1- and 2-cylinder Yamahas (and nowadays also DL- and SV-Suzukis) but basic service parts should be found from any general Yamaha shop.

My "Winter Project '05/'06" is a '89 Super Tenere. Into bits and pieces (see www.heikkil.com/supertenere/pics/runko.jpg) and back to life again. As Dick previously said, the price difference between ST and AT gives a chance to upgrade suspension properly and also bolt on other goodies (here we go again... :-) ).

Indu: Have a GREAT time in Iceland! I spent there 11 months 2001-2002 and the place is just amazing!


[This message has been edited by TenereHeikki (edited 09 November 2005).]

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- Heikki & R1200GSA + V50 Monza -

Hi Heikki,
Can you explain more clearly exactly where and how the frame needs strenghtening on the XTZ. I'd like to do it as pat of my rebuild but would like to get it right first time so that my welds don't interfere with reassembling the bike?

1st of all sorry about late response...

The most important welding point is the rear upper engine mounting area; see http://www.heikkil.com/supertenere/vahvistus.JPG It's easy job for professional welder and engine fits in w/o any problems.

You could also weld the holes that hold the spark plug wire supports (those black plastic things) and in case you plan to carry heavy side / rear bags also subframe.

Here the completed ST: http://www.heikkil.com/supertenere/valmis3.jpg

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- Heikki & R1200GSA + V50 Monza -

Both bikes have their pro's and cons, as riding bike's is an emotional issue get what you like, personally i find the AT more of a Touring bike, so more comfy on highways, and Tenere more suited for off road riding, and easier to ride off road because it pulls from 1500 rpm and the power is linear, so lots of traction in poor conditions, and you can ride the bike slowly off road, The AT below 3000 rpm therés nobody home, but goes better to 7000 rpm's, more shifting needed, than a super tenere, AT tends to stall if you ride shiftlazy, the super you can idle through deep sand, and town, and will go 200k.
I've riden both Supers and AT's extensively, also in Enduro's, both wonderfull bike's, and like both alot, both bikes are very reliable, and both have their isue's that need dealt with, if they would be cars i'd say the S10 would be the Landrover and the AT would be the Range Rover, his and hers
Good luck shopping
Just get what you like

If you get A super Tenere, from ''94 they have the relyable clutch and rectifier, no issues, very 40k's replace emulsiontubes in carbs.
Also check floatbowl levels, often the reason for rich fuel mixture.

AT different issues, mainly with fuelpump every 40k, not cheap, generatorissue's at every 50 k, so get a heavy duty one, brake calipers need to be cleaned at regular basis, since they are single piston.