generally, i don't ride during jan-feb, so still looking forward to nice autumn rides.
and thanks for the link; let's see what/when i'll have to hone after this, but will consider dedicated tool for that.

i understand that life situation poses some challenges, but not sure your engine will understand.... your DIY hone might or might not work, we dont even know what grit you used, if it was emery cloth or plain sand paper and even if i knew, i could never tell if it'll work

in my 45 year of wrenching, I never did it by hand, neither heard about anyone doing it. draw your own conclusions

your motor, your choice.

By the way, if you use google translate on xtrock's link, you will even see the are noting all the paramters to reach good honing,

regretfully, that link goes up only to 60mm bore, youll need bigger than that of course


this ones are also cheap and adapt to any bore


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSqgJh0Ed5o

Well i didnt link for him to buy here, it was for him to find correct tool for job, offcourse it will have to be correct size, you write like others are idiots here! You dont get the perfect cross honing with your link, cross honing is what machineshop use so ye buy it. https://www.mscdirect.co.uk/abrasive...ning-tools?p=2

well, indeed agree about the risks of not achieving needed finish.
but still had decided that this attempt at least would be better than leaving cylinder wall like it was - with the signs of glazing...
"tool" was plain sandpaper (320) along with the engine oil.
and i do realize that in the scenarios like this at some (increased) extent will have to rely on the crossed fingers..

well, meanwhile carbs arrived. as noted earlier, finally decided to try ones from raptor 660 (chinese copies).
first impression was about weight - 200grams more than original kit.
then, about cleanliness - just ok, not super-clean. no big deal since there's lots of studying / tuning times ahead, naturally involving cleanings as well.

Cant imagine you get any quality that will work over time for 35euros, let us know the fuel consumption, bet its not accurate. I was down to 0,34l 10km last trip with KN filter, fully exhaust Yoshi and stainless downpipes + dynojet kit. Good luck!

sounds you've got pretty nice kit on the both sides of the engine )
well, considering that during the last month or so bike consumes 0 fuel, feeling that any positive number will be better..
also, pardon me bringing maybe too much of subjective perspective, but for now this chinese kit is the best kit in the world for me, as it's only option to get the bike running again.
otherwise, if/when the future lets, still thinking to install normal ydis. it's one more reason for which i'm trying to keep the original airbox setup.

ok, some updates -
this new kit is 1.25cm shorter (filter-engine axis), so thinking to craft some aluminum adapter plate between engine and manifolds.
speaking of manifolds, using pair of right (bigger) intake manifolds of xt, one assigned on left with 180° flip.
also, as these carbs have shorter fitting ends towards the engine, had to cut 3mm from manifold lips. afterwards they join well.

on the airbox side, right (bigger) air duct fits. but had to modify left one - cut ~1cm on the carb side and with scalpel and sandpaper made more or less soft (curvy) transition inside.
then took raptor's air duct and cut ~4cm from it (also carb side).
afterwards fitted that cut part over xt's duct like sleeve.
appeared pretty tight. glued with gasket silicone.
offset is about 1 cm:


these carbs are taller and their both lower and higher ends are more bulky compared to xt's carbs. had to play with some cables to make the fitment easy.

main problem for now is the distance between diaphragm vent passages and bike frame. it's too close even without that adapter plate:


seems it's possible to cut some of their length.

in the case of raptor, these vents are connected to air ducts separately.
does this setup of raptor affect the diaphragm response?
what if i connect them to just the atmosphere with some sort of filter (like it's in xt's case)?

as for the adapters, you could also make them from nylon, its fuel resistant and a bit more forgiving to mount than aluminum.


for the vents, you just need a simple rubber elbow, and route from the 2 tubes to somewhere clean. the carb does not constantly suck air from there, its just to allow free movement of the slides, so a filter is nice but not a must, its more of a venting.


yes, they could be shortened too.



something like this for example (not sure if this is the exact size you need, but to get the idea)


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-4...ef_=ast_sto_dp


Hope it all works for you.

nylon sounds nice and lighter. easier to craft as well.
that elbow setup is clear. main thing is knowing that it's not necessary to connect these vents to air duct/airbox.
as for filters at the end, i don't think about dedicated mushroom filters, rather some simpler solution to block dust.
thanks for good infos!

long story short for now, carbs are installed and bike runs.

making adapter plate, finally decided to stick with aluminum, as melting temperature of nylon felt somehow as not on the "peace of mind" distance from possible surface temperatures of the engine run by carbs yet-to-adjusted..

used some gasket silicone to mate head and this plate.

for diaphragm vents used hoses already shaped with 90° corners, something like this -


cables. was lucky to find flexible steel tube with 6mm outer diameter.
cut threads, bent and pressed into the carb body. smaller (more bent) is for choke.


more photos and complete story later, when jets, needles etc. will be finally chosen/adjusted.

having these questions for now:

1. what if using smaller hoses for diaphragm vents (attaching them by pressing inside the steel tubes on the body, rather putting from the outside)? will this reduction of diameter affect how diaphragms will work?

2. needle jets had this cylindrical rings attached, supported by jets:

these rings have 4 holes on the sides and reach almost till the bottom of the bowl.
problem is that in the jet kit i've got all main jets have the base (where screwdriver goes) bigger than inner diameter of this ring. so had to take these ring away and attach jets directly to the needle jets. btw, just like in the case of original carbs.
what it the function of this ring? maybe it worth to find jets with smaller base to let these rings make their sense?

nice!


HOW does it run then?



1. as long as you have 2-3 mm free internal diameter, i think the tubes will be fine.


you can try riding the bike with them disconnected for a few minutes, nothing will happen, then put the tubes on and see if they make a negative impact on riding. again, they are just vents to atmosphere to balance pressure



2. guess those jet protectors are for ATV to maintain fuel around when off roading.... i would say not a problem to remove. again, you are on your own here, see how it works with/without



compliments on the persistence!

turboguzzi, thanks for the answers etc.

good thing is that bike starts easily, generally feels bit more powerful, compared not only to the last days of previous carbs.

things to solve for now are rich-ish mixture (overall) and possible lug/delay which could happen somewhere between 25-40% of throttle opening. currently manipulating with needle positions.
temperature keeps changing here pretty sharp day after day these times and feedback seems complicated.
hopefully will manage to test exhaust with the mixture gauge.

maybe before worrying about that jet protectors, will consider to check fuel level in the bowls. thing is that these carbs now are somehow inclined forward compared to their intended use (raptor), maybe 15-20°.

smaller diameter vent hoses could make removal/installation times bit easy. yes, it's still pretty hard process (especially installation), so every cubic cm of saved space matters a lot...

sounds like your jetting is close,
the 1st thing that you have to find is the main jet, leave the needles in original place and just try +/- 5 in the mains, find what works best,


only then move to needle height (if still needed)
these carbs can work ok with +/- 10 r even 15 degrees of tilt, so dont touch their fuel level for now. easy to mess that up

thanks again for a good advices, turboguzzi.
good to know that carbs are ok in the given setup.
let's see by which jetting i'll end up with...