your only supposed to put a tiny dab of loctite on the thread, it stops the fastener vibrating loose not glue it in there.

if you find it hard to undo a screw then you probably did it up too tight in the 1st place, there is no need and you strain the metal. standard torque for a 5 or 6mm bolt is only between 5-10Nm, easy for the average person to do with a screwdriver let alone a spanner!
TREAT YOUR NUTS PROPERLY AND THEY WILL LOOK AFTER YOU FOR A LONG TIME

__________________
dave

Impasto, you probably have got the message by now.

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Dave

There are different grades of Loctite some are permanent, others are designed to be dissembled .
Heating to above 350 degrees will break the seal and allow the nut or screw to be undone .You can heat it with a soldering iron [ if it's a small screw for instance ] or with a propane or similar gas torch .

Stubborn or rusted nuts can be loosened by heating to cherry red and allowing to cool a little .The heating and expansion breaks the ring of oxidation and allows the nut to be undone , it's best to heat the nut quickly so that the bolt does not get too hot .[Oxy acetylene or propane torches are best for this or take the end off your butane soldering iron ] .

If all else fails ,soaking with a penetrating oil or WD40 overnight may help on rusty or stubborn nuts .

To prevent nuts from backing off due to vibration ,use ,Nyloc nuts, lock washers ,tab washers , spring washers or double nut the bolts .

Copper coat is excellent stuff and you will bless the day that you discovered it .

Electrics - I'm sure that you will want to learn how to use a soldering iron [ the little butane powered ones are my favorite ] .
Then try and dispense with as many superfluous connectors as you can . Either run wires staright to where they need to go without connectors ,or solder the bared twisted wire ends together and cover with splicing tape or shrink-on tubes .
[The critics and experts may not approve but years of living in salty corrosive conditions brought me to this conclusion] .
Use vaseline on bullet or spade connectors and battery terminals .

Make a note of every spanner that you will need on your bike and try to buy a longer version of it for more leverage ,in some cases this will not be practical .A small length of pipe can be slid over ratchet handles to give more leverage for sockets .
Legs are stronger than arms , a gentle push on a spanner with your foot will often do the trick .

Getting an assistant to give a bolt head a whack with a hammer whilst you apply pressure with a spanner can also break nuts free , this also works with screwdrivers .

If you mess up a Philips screw head you can cut a slot in the head with a hacksaw , or better still , use an angle grinder with a thin "Zipcut" disc to cut the slot . Then you can use a big beefy screwdriver to undo the screw [ the heat from ginding also helps] .

Six sided ring spanners and sockets are less likely to round off the corners of nuts than 12 sided ones and are usually stronger .

Doing the girly thing and waiting for a Knight in shining armour won't always work ,[ I suspect you're kidding anyway ] , so eat British Beef , drink pints , do strength training and learn to string about 7or 8 swear words together really vociferously and I think you'll find that any nut will come undone .

__________________
Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

Some can be tight (they are waterproof).

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Patrick passed Dec 2018. RIP Patrick!

If you use only a small dab of Locktite you will still have the corrosion-problem and bolts might be hard to get off.

I agree, a lot of electrical problems come from tight wire clips. The area around the steering head is esp important (lot of wires and movement).

Yes, this is also a technique I have found to be extremely useful over the years. Research suggests a carefully applied sailor's expletive adds up to 20 lbs per square foot over a standard grunt and up to 25 lbs over a 'blimey' or an 'I say!'.

Stringing several together is a skill that increases the force exponentially and is easier than might be expected. Adding 'ing' to the end of 99% of swear words enables them to be followed by another expletive of similar colour. For example "b*ll*cking, sh*tting, f***!" has worked well for me in the past.

Swearing can also be used to relax between failed attempts to loosen stubborn fasteners. Anthropomorphising your vehicle in combination with offensive insults is proven to be eight times more effective than yogic breathing. For example my Enfield more than once suffered the soubriquet "You unspeakable f***ing, c*cking, a*seing bast*rd! I hate your sodding guts! As soon as we get home I'm going to buy a Yamaha!" Allowing yourself to go red in the face while shaking your fist in the direction of the vehicle is a more advanced skill, but is easy to master with practice.

The soothing effect of this has enabled me to retain a healthy, loving relationship with both my Enfield and my Yamaha.

Hope this helps.

Matt

__________________
http://adventure-writing.blogspot.com

http://scotlandnepal.blogspot.com/

*Disclaimer* - I am not saying my bike is better than your bike. I am not saying my way is better than your way. I am not mocking your religion/politics/other belief system. When reading my post imagine me sitting behind a frothing pint of ale, smiling and offering you a bag of peanuts. This is the sentiment in which my post is made. Please accept it as such!

I also use the Basil Fawlty approach.
Giving your vehicle a sound thrashing with a flexible item of wood is also a good idea.
Research has shown that it is effective in itself. But swearing like a trooper at the same time actually has a compound effect.
The result is more than the sum of the individual actions.

Let me preface my opinions by stating that I have worked in motorcycle shops for 30+ years and I enjoy riding clapped out bikes on gravel roads like the Dempster in canada and around my great state of Montana USA where only 25% of the roads are paved.(Stop by if you are headed north, we live between yellowstone and glacier parks) Electrical connections: the modern japanese ones are great for sealing out stuff especialy if you use a little dielectic grease. But if they have been coated in mud and yak dung the release clips get fouled up. I have done loads of work on Yamaha and Honda 4 wheelers used in ranching and it takes some carefull cleaning and picking it get them apart. For external vibration load fasteners my personal favorite is clear silicone RTV. I use it on the threads of the bolt and nut to seal out corrosion and keep things tight even after occasional removing and replacing. RTV meaning room temperature vulcanizing. Here in the states it is sold as silicone seal in 3 ounce tubes. Various grades of locktite have a use on the proper bolt but it seems working in a bike shop I have run into locktited bolts with a 4mm allen head. The allen head promply strips and is in a place that is hard to get a slot cut in it. Or it is surrounded by plastic so it gets a little dodgy trying to heat it red hot. For a messed up nut or screw that won't come loose I carry a small hammer and a centerpunch ground to a tiny chisel point and a small cold chisel. Use the centerpunch to turn the screw out by starting a notch and then tapping in the direction you want the screw to go. This works on everything including large nuts like countershaft holding nuts. This is mainly useful when I don't have my 400 ft pound air wrench handy. Most mechanical problems can be fixed with 90% patience and 10% tools and knowledge so don't let the reluctant fasteners get you down.

On a more serious note than my last post. Bill hits the nail on the head here.

When I was younger I wondered what it was that made my dad such a good mechanic (he's fully restored two vintage cars, one from a bare chassis) and me such a poor, apopleptic, bleeding fingered, vital part missing, kneeling on the ground shaking my fists at the skies, mechanic. Then, watching him in action one day I realised what it was: PATIENCE!

He always has the time to read any notes, select the CORRECT tools (as opposed to the nearest ones) lay everything out carefully, clean everything up...etc. This approach also meant he often took less time to do stuff than I would (searching as I was amongst the rags, lumps of dried mud and tools for that particular nut) and he would refuse to get angry.

These days, the first thing I do whenever I'm doing some work on my bike or car is try to emulate this style of working.

Matt

__________________
http://adventure-writing.blogspot.com

http://scotlandnepal.blogspot.com/

*Disclaimer* - I am not saying my bike is better than your bike. I am not saying my way is better than your way. I am not mocking your religion/politics/other belief system. When reading my post imagine me sitting behind a frothing pint of ale, smiling and offering you a bag of peanuts. This is the sentiment in which my post is made. Please accept it as such!

Patience is a by-product of raising children !

I used to work for an agricultural contractor , all of our equipment was just about on it's last legs and broke down a lot .
He used to vent his frustration by throwing his cap on the floor and jumping up and down on it . He would then shout "Don't laugh , don't laugh or you're fired !" We usually got fired and went down the pub , he'd arrive a bit later, have a pint and we'd go back to the job .
One day we had a Drott crawler loader break down , something in the gearbox -can't really remember , a proper repair involved stripping the machine down and splitting it ,about a two day job . He went and got his 4 year old son from nursery school , stripped him to the waist and held him upside down in the gearbox by his feet , while the boy with his small hands got between the gears and fixed the machine .
His wife was furious and he hid , while WE got a damn good b*llocking from his missus for allowing it .
Local farmers used to say it was the highlight of their year when we came to do the harvesting as the boss's antics were so entertaining .

__________________
Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

For the electrical connectors use a little Di-electric grease on all of them before you go an bring a little along with you its the right "tool" for the job. Use blue locktight it will hold the nuts on will enof.

To get the nuts off use a breaker bar or a pipe on the end of the ratchet or wrench. If that fails you can shock the nut with a hammer or use the hammer the end of the ratchet or the heat and oil trick. For the electrical connectors there are ears at the side of the thigs most of the times pull them out of the way before you start pulling them. If they dont let go try to wiggle them a bit back and forth while pulling them. Clean off the corrosion and use some Di-electric grease after you get them lose.

Corrosion is what stops most things comming apart easy stop that and you will have much less problems. After that its stripped nuts and bolts they need to be replaced. (bring a few with you on a big trip)

When you go to put it all back together dont over tighten the nuts no one likes that .

[QUOTE=Dodger;179583]Patience is a by-product of raising children !
QUOTE]

Ha! So that's why MY dad is SUCH a good mechanic!

Love your story about your old boss!

Matt

__________________
http://adventure-writing.blogspot.com

http://scotlandnepal.blogspot.com/

*Disclaimer* - I am not saying my bike is better than your bike. I am not saying my way is better than your way. I am not mocking your religion/politics/other belief system. When reading my post imagine me sitting behind a frothing pint of ale, smiling and offering you a bag of peanuts. This is the sentiment in which my post is made. Please accept it as such!