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Changing camshaft/valve springs Changing camshaft/valve springs
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 10 Oct 2014
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Changing camshaft/valve springs
I have a performance camshaft and heavy springs for the valves, how much power will i gain installing this? How is it so adjust the valves? Do you change headbolts when every time head is off?
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Old 10 Oct 2014
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You will need more mods to get everything out of this new cam. (carbs/exhaust/piston/maybe bigger valves and porting)

Where did you buy everything? I want them too
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Old 10 Oct 2014
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That's a good question. I have only found 1 cam that does not require a high compression piston. They say it will improve across the whole band. It will let more air and gas in up to the limits of your existing carb. If installing a bigger carb will improve power on the stock cam , is there much to gain by adding a better cam to a maxed out stock carb? Let us know.THUMPTHUMP
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Old 10 Oct 2014
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Ok, but i have kn filter, new exhaust, and dynojet kit. I know they change only cam on cars and get more power. Have the high comp piston, but i dont know if i want to change, i quess the wear on the rest will be high. Its some old stuff bought from whitebros, piston is wiseco.
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Old 10 Oct 2014
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Go for it , If you have the high compression piston it can use bigger and longer intake duration. It will also like to expel the exhaust quicker. If you are going to play, play to win. THUMPTHUMP
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Old 11 Oct 2014
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Well i dont know, bike is running perfect now. Maybe i change everything and get alot of adjustment problems again, its not like done in one hour changing back again. JJ is doing the swap so ill wait and see what he says about the bike after. First of all i need to get the headcover fixed..
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Old 11 Oct 2014
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In my opinion, these bikes are NOT race bikes or even close. They are Tractors and do the intended job very well for a very long time if taken care of properly. If your engine is running fine, no smoke, no excess clatter, leave it alone and it will continue to do so. My 86 has maybe 15k miles, not sure as speedo was broken for years, but a recent compression check with a brand new gauge showed it to have 171 pounds of compression. This is at the top of the range for this stock engine. The bike used a slight bit of oil and always has, it does NOT smoke or clatter excessively and pulls like a "Tractor". I plan to keep it just as it is. I do plan to try some cartridge emulators to smooth out the harsh ride and perhaps a new adjustable rear shock.

I am looking for suggestions for a new rear shock, any ideas anyone?
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'84 XT600 is now bored to 2nd oversize and new OEM pistons and rings installed. No more smoking.
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Old 11 Oct 2014
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Yeah i agree, high comp piston will make much more wear on the bottom end of engine. Its better just change bike to a KTM and never worry about lack in power, for me its most importan to have a bike that i can thrust running at all time and if i get the oil leak fixed it will be ok.

Rear shock is expensive, hyperpro and Wilbers.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilbers-Type...9bddd9&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hyperpro-Spo...1ead89&vxp=mtr
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Old 12 Oct 2014
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Yea these bikes aren't anything close to race bikes and go a long time in original specs, I have several that'll stay that way. I also like to see what can be done with them and if they handle it good, only one way to know. The one thing about making more power is that gearing can be lowered so a person can go the same speed at considerable less rpm's, which will reduce wear over time, just what is the crossover point. MY new motor is geared quite high but pulls great(thanks to the hi-comp), my rpm cable is too short so I couldn't hook it up yet but I'm guessing 3000ish rpm's @60mph and oomph to spare. A person will loose long term wear the more power adders you do(and the extent taken) but the motors will take a bit more without loosing the original longevity ,greatly depends on how the rider uses that extra power and maintains it.

I believe an under powered and always struggling motor will be more abused than one that can putt along unstressed and pulling easily. The under powered motor will be revved higher for longer periods than the one that can be short shifted and kept at low revs . Again it depends on the rider mostly.
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Old 13 Oct 2014
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That's sort of my way of thinking about it. The XT 600 motor has a longer stroke than a KLR. DR and the XR. If bored to 101 mm , one more than a KLR it would be 700. The XT has a lower red line than a KLR. So, If its a tractor make it a great tractor. I want to try a 10:1 with an oil cooler. I still have to find someone to reduce a 11.5 :1 wisco to a 10:1. Leave the revs to the short strokes. My main concern is the transmission. With the problem with the first gen 5th gear issue, In hope the dedicated oil line and the taller ratio that the e starts have will help it take the extra torque. Yea I know the fix started in 88. Has any one chipped gears in the E starts? THUMPTHUMP
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Old 13 Oct 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THUMPTHUMPTHUMP View Post
That's sort of my way of thinking about it. The XT 600 motor has a longer stroke than a KLR. DR and the XR. If bored to 101 mm , one more than a KLR it would be 700. The XT has a lower red line than a KLR. So, If its a tractor make it a great tractor. I want to try a 10:1 with an oil cooler. I still have to find someone to reduce a 11.5 :1 wisco to a 10:1. Leave the revs to the short strokes. My main concern is the transmission. With the problem with the first gen 5th gear issue, In hope the dedicated oil line and the taller ratio that the e starts have will help it take the extra torque. Yea I know the fix started in 88. Has any one chipped gears in the E starts? THUMPTHUMP
That seems to make more sense than camshaft and chasing revs....
If you want something that revs itself to early destruction and the crank may not last 100 hours get a 450..
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