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clutch slips at speed , drags at standstill. clutch slips at speed , drags at standstill.
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 8 Jan 2010
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clutch slips at speed , drags at standstill.
Hi guys , My problem is that my 1989 50000 mile 3aj tenere clutch slips in the higher gears under full power and drags at a standstill in first gear, so much so that i cant get it out of first gear without stopping the engine, when on the move at normal speeds both the cluth and gearbox work normally, when i bought the bike a few years ago the clutch was slipping so i replaced it with an after market item, didnt cure the slipping and got dragging aswell , I have put up with it ever since but now its begining to P me off, any ideas? , Trev.
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  #2  
Old 9 Jan 2010
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First check the actuating mechanism/arm, etc... is it adjusted properly, free moving...etc. Check that its nice & clean & greased up as necessary.

Is cable free & oiled? Then if that don't cure it - its casing off & have a good look at the clutch plates and inspect clutch basket & feel for free play.
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Old 9 Jan 2010
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Thanks for the advice Pigford, As soon as the weather warms up a bit ill check the items youv mentioned. Trev.
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  #4  
Old 9 Jan 2010
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Clutch drag/slip
See post about 4 weeks ago entitled "clutch drag " - similar problem

Cheeers AK
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  #5  
Old 9 Jan 2010
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The most likely cause is the bike has had the wrong oil in it at some stage. You may need to pull the clutch plates out, clean them in a solvent and re-assemble.

all the best
dan
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Old 10 Jan 2010
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Good point about wrong oil - it may have knackered the fibre plates, so they have expanded and started to fall to bitz..... !!!!!
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Old 10 Jan 2010
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clutch slips at speed , drags at standstill.
Thanks everybody for even more advice, Is there a best oil for an xt? in the past i have used a semi synthetic oil from my local bike shop . One thing i have noticed is after changing the oil the clutch slips very badly for about the first 200 miles then gradually improves . Strange goings on if you ask me.
Best regards, Trev.
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  #8  
Old 10 Jan 2010
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sounds like the clutch basket is worn and the plates are snagging and not moving freely
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Old 10 Jan 2010
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As long as the oil is specifically for a wet clutch (ie: motorcycle) and not just car spec, it should be OK. Clutch fibre plates can and do break up & deteriorate over time. I had some fall to bits on me old Gixxer 1100 - but it was over 15 yrs old and took loads of abuse.... The fibre plates started falling apart, with bits coming adrift. If this is the case with yours, bits could get wedged in the wrong place causing drag?!

My old Trumpet clutch drags like there's no tomorrow, but this is due to the rubber cush drive thats in the hub, rotting and bits getting caught up in it - I can NOT get it into neutral when the engine is running !!!!
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Old 10 Jan 2010
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Best Oil
Opinions vary (a lot) on oil , but XT guru Dave Lambeth only uses Millers CVT 20/50 - not cheap but the best for the relatively ancient XT motor .
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  #11  
Old 10 Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ak47 View Post
Opinions vary (a lot) on oil , but XT guru Dave Lambeth only uses Millers CVT 20/50 - not cheap but the best for the relatively ancient XT motor .
A very good range of specialist oils from Millers and much loved by diesel enthusiasts, but unlikely to be available outside the UK, e.g. Africa, Russia etc. My handbook (4PT engine) recommends an oil classification of API Service SE, SF, SG or higher and NOT to use anti friction oil. All oil containers will show the API classification.

Geoff
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  #12  
Old 11 Jan 2010
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1st clutch slips-
If clutch is in decent condition and adjusted correctly I suggest increasing the spring pressure. I use shims i make on a lathe that go under the clutch springs to boost pressure.
note I have to do this with a new clutch with performance springs as well, its a solution to the weak clutch design. currently using approx a .3" spacers.

2nd clutch drags when released-
Before you install clutch side cover operate clutch and watch opperation of pressure plate it should rise evenly from the clutch plates if not spring pressure if uneven and will cause drag. (pressure plate is partially draging on clutches} I will add necessary shims to equalize pressures under bolts (setting spring height)
Also you might have a incorrect lever perch combo not giving enough throw to release well.
And with all the above eventually I will need to readjust the equalization of the springs as it will start to drag again. But then I am real hard on the clutch or torque converter I call it. They can take quite a good amount of abuse.
I am currently running Mobile-one 0-40 one of the reasons for the need of higher spring pressure. but a real smooth opperation when it works right.
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  #13  
Old 11 Jan 2010
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Hi Trev,

I agree with Wolf Zero that it may very well be the so called clutch basket, that bit that holds the clutch together. Stops the steel plates from spinning when clutch is disengaged and provides drive through the steel plates to the friction plates when clutch is engaged.

I can visualize your clutch slipping if the adjustment is incorrect too tight however this would be consistent if the engine was in 1st or 6th

I have had a similar problem with my DRZ250 and this problem is consistant with liots of bikes similar because they operate in the same manner. Mine was draging in 1St …..The bike place I bought it from repaired it under a warranty system.

However when I repair things I go all the way, they just replaced the discs and filed the groves in the clutch basket,

Now I am thinking that your clutch basket is badly worn and the plates are not moving backward and forward as they are required to do.

When you are able to inspect this….couple of things to look out for and checks can only be made when the clutch is disassembled,
· Firstly after disassembly check the basket and if there are wear grooves where the clutch plates sit discard the basket and replace.
· Check that there is no rust on the steel plates this will cause drag.
· If the friction plates have been overheated they may be warped place them on a flat surface of a thick piece of glass and see if they wobble by pressing on the edge of the plates in several places
· If there are blue or brown heat marks on the steel plates check in the same manner to see if they are warped,
· If the friction plate’s show signs that there is some contamination in the linings. Place some emery paper on the glass and rub the plates until they look clean
· Do the same with the metal plates be sure that the plates are kept flat on the emery paper on the glass surface?
· Replace your oil with oil recommended by the bike manufacturer most high grade oils are recommended and unless you are being a cheep skate then buy the cheapest oil such as recycled oil which is sold in supermarkets etc.

Hope this helps but guts feeling it’s your basket always open to discussion and if you find anything diffrent please let us all know

Kind Regards
Champ

If Your in OZ around the brisbane Gold Coast area the give me a call share a meal a chat and yarn look forward to hearing about your adventurers
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