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29 Sep 2011
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Hi Jens..........I,ve got a 2002 600e and have removed the snorkel and plan on putting a drz 450 muffler on,do you think I need to do anything to the carb?.......or shall I just do some plug checks?
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30 Sep 2011
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Valve clearance done, but essay pending!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pera
I´ve talk my brother that you have no space for the "galga" (sorry I don´t know the English word) adjusting the valves and he said: wow, that bike must run as a Vespino (50cc. bike) and for sure overheats.
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Job done. There was some free play in the intake valves, but almost NONE in the exhaust ones, no space at all for the feeler gauge (galga). So, I was rushing to test the bike (I had to pick up my father-in-law in 20 min in the airport!) and... fuel hose went out from the right petcock! No kidding! Hose was very, clamp was gone and I had no wire/tie around, I got freaking mad! So, patience, I cross fingers to try it tomorrow after we go sightseeing. I pray it'll run better!
So, Thanks a lot for the much better colour pics, pera! Sure, it was running poorly!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Eskildsen
Hi, the carb has several "circuits" which overlaps each other. Think about the circuits as waterhoses with different diameters, operating at different times.
I've red youre sparkplug, but you dont know which circuit you have been testing. A bike can run lean at idle, or at low rpm (idle circuit) and run rich at full throttle (mainjet) orthe other way around. It could also be spot on in lower and higher rpm's, and be lean/rich at cruice.
So you need to know what you're testing, to diagnose the problem.
You can test the idle curcuit (idle jet) by cruicing around int he first 3-ish gears at low rpm, for a couple of minutes.
You can test the needlesetting at regular cruicespeed, and the mainjet ith WOT.
Before you test, make sure thet bike is fully warmed up, so you get the best possible combustion.
You're plug aint that bad. I've tried to read plugs and compare them to the results of my lambda-guage. Every plugreading was lighter in color than i though they would and shoud be. They were more gray-ish than brown.
So unless you feel it surging, I would leave it alone. My 2003 xt600e came slightly rich in all circuits, mainjets were actually a couple sizes to big for max hp. I think they do that to help it cool better.
To sum it up, dont worry about it. I wouldnt bother doing all the stufff I've done over time, if I could turn back time. Just make sure there are no airleaks and stuff like that, and adjust youre Co screw for strongest idle.
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Very good explanation, I had only read about wide open throtle, but no low rev for idle. Happy to know about the different circuits, great info (so much to learn, thanks!). I won't touch anything by now, I "may" only lower idle, it runs at ca. 1500 rpm, which IMO looks too quick.
And if valves adjustment went well, I'll try a compression test (I got a gauge at 15€), mainly curiousity! I plug it to the sparkplug hole and try to e-start and read the result, am I right? (Clymer speaks only about kicking for old models, I assume it'll be same to e-start it).
Have a nice weekend you all!
Last edited by estebangc; 1 Oct 2011 at 11:10.
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1 Oct 2011
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Kenymact: I wouldnt think so no, if it pops a lot in decel, or feels like its surging in the midragen, you probably got work to do. Otherwise I would leave it alone.
Estebangc:
As I recall, you need to give it "full throttle" when youre doing a compressiontest, to get right results. I dont even know what the results should be, so very interested to hear from you.
The, now, loosened exhasutvalves could also help to lower the temps in youre engine.
Good work
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4 Oct 2011
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Engine running cooler... but readjustment to be done soon!
Tested bike yesterday! Some slight tapping/knocking, but running certainly better and I’d say some 10-15 ºC cooler. Yuppie!!!! And what a pleasure to ride it again! Between 3000 and 3500 rpm was feeling at its best, but after 4000 rpm much more vibration Mainly rode in 4th gear at 75 km/h and also some 5th in the highway at 105 km/h. (5th gear noise is still another issue, but as Pera pointed me out, quite a common problem I should think of at a later stage).
Today got it in the city and tapping was much more obvious and engine got hotter (I rushed a little with a colder engine?). Sure, my (noisy) Airoh helmet really helps to listen to any noise… Similar to this thread, coming from the same area. I was wandering: maybe I should have tightened more the locking nuts?
Anyway, happy at this stage, since I had already planned to re-do the valves adjustment again till I feel it is just perfect (to my clumsy standards!), so I can proceed later to compression test, looking forward to use the gauge ( louis.de 15€)! I will keep you posted, sure, all the details in the pipeline, Jens.
Ah, I definitely have to work on the brakes, or I’ll kill myself. I really lost confidence in a corner with some gravel when back break said “sorry, abstent”!!! (at least that is how I ride, I could be even worse). So, I plan start with rear and if it works OK, I will keep on with front. Ah, I ordered in a shop nearby this rear brake rotor which to my limited knowledge looks like s**it compared to the OEM Yamaha.
Esteban
PS: Angled feeler gauges and KEDO valve adjusting tool would make my life much easier, what a pain to adjust the valves in such a tiny space!!!!
PS2: Just getting mad adding photos and hyperlinks!
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13 Oct 2011
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White smoke coming out!
Is it normal that WHITE FUMES/SMOKE come out of the front of the bike AFTER VALVES CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT?????
First time I adjusted (tried to) got some smoke out, but thought it was because of petrol spilled over the pipes. It lasted quite short. And later rode it quite long with no problem
But this second time much more white smoke came out from the front, like the pipes (but cannot tell) with quite pungent smelling. Started several times and kept on, so stopped it just in case.
Is it normal??? Any thought about what it can be??? (Edit) Solved: WD40 BURNING! :-)
PS: btw, had a hard time adjusting thiner gauge (0,05mm) to go through but not thicker one (0,10mm); same for 0,15 and 0,20. I was happy since I thought I had it perfect for the compression test...
Last edited by estebangc; 14 Oct 2011 at 19:49.
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