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I need cylinder head xt 600, scrap is ok. I need cylinder head xt 600, scrap is ok.
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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Old 14 Oct 2014
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I need cylinder head xt 600, scrap is ok.
Anyone have one, as long as its flat on the top its ok. Its for the 3TB but they are marked 2kf so i think the old ones fit? its only for me to bolt the headcover on for welding.
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Old 14 Oct 2014
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Dont need it anyway, this is my solution instead, 15mm steelplate. What does the pro welders say about this, is it ok? anything else to do before welding? How much would be best for me to grind?



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Old 14 Oct 2014
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You can also put it in a water container up to just below the inside surface, We used to do some parts that needed to be done in water, worked pretty good. V it just over half the thickness and twice as wide. 1 root pass with very little filler rod, then a cover pass(TIG).
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Old 14 Oct 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrider View Post
You can also put it in a water container up to just below the inside surface, We used to do some parts that needed to be done in water, worked pretty good. V it just over half the thickness and twice as wide. 1 root pass with very little filler rod, then a cover pass(TIG).
Ok thanks, what about thighten the bolts hard or just a little?
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Old 15 Oct 2014
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Enough to keep things from moving, let it cool completely before removing. Make sure the welder preheats the entire cover before welding on it so that one area doesn't suddenly have high heat and the rest is cold, something that should be done with any aluminum welding. It would be nice to know the exact alloy so the filler rod can be matched.
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Old 15 Oct 2014
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Originally Posted by jjrider View Post
Enough to keep things from moving, let it cool completely before removing. Make sure the welder preheats the entire cover before welding on it so that one area doesn't suddenly have high heat and the rest is cold, something that should be done with any aluminum welding. It would be nice to know the exact alloy so the filler rod can be matched.
Thanks for info, i heated up the cover today and its huge difference in cooling from not having the plate. Welder says he will do a little at the time so it wont overheat, fingers crossed!
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Old 25 Oct 2014
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Well ??? how did she end up ?
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Old 26 Oct 2014
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Well ??? how did she end up ?
Good question..dont think he had the time yet, so i just have to wait. Did you find out about the gearbox?
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Old 26 Oct 2014
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Yep, I studied what was doing what and made a new spacer down by the last gear and added a thin shim between another, she works great now. The trans I assume is out of a German road bike model since it is different. Ratio is almost perfect, fairly low first, high fifth and even spacing between all, about the best I've run.
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Old 26 Oct 2014
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Originally Posted by jjrider View Post
Yep, I studied what was doing what and made a new spacer down by the last gear and added a thin shim between another, she works great now. The trans I assume is out of a German road bike model since it is different. Ratio is almost perfect, fairly low first, high fifth and even spacing between all, about the best I've run.
Thats nice, how is the high comp compared to stock?
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Old 26 Oct 2014
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It seems to start and run awesome. Low end torque is more than my other bikes, don't know about topend still breaking it in plus I don't consider these rpm motors. Doesn't run hot even idling, but it is only 50-60F nowadays . I was mostly interested in low end and low rpm cruising since this bike is using 19" front/18"rear, somewhat "tracker" style and will mostly just be my runner bike. Now that it is colder, nice to just twist the key and fire it up(notice what I said there?). Electric start snowmobile ignition switch.
I'm hoping to be able to take it in on the dyno with 2 of the others for a bunch of tests, waiting on a dyno , the only local place that had one had a major meltdown of sorts and lost use of it so it has been down. I want a base number so if I can get my efi going I can compare, the carbs are still the holdup on most modding benefits.
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Old 26 Oct 2014
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You are on stock carb and stock exhaust, high comp 95mm? Does it lift on 2 gear when full throttle?
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Old 26 Oct 2014
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Not stock exhaust,it's an older Cobra megaphone style. Haven't done any wheelies, old chain (2 master links) till I get a new one, don't care to snap it and crack the case, the bike took a longer chain than the one I got for it(was same length as my older XT's) so I had to scrounge. I just wanted to get the thing running so some things are temporary till I get new parts bought/made. Spent all extra $$ on sm rims/spokes/wheels & battery, still need the front spokes made.

Just taking off and short shifting I can feel how easy it goes compared to the others. No chuging basically, roll throttle it speeds up. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .(whats with the automatic cartoon with that word . ^ ^ ?)
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Old 27 Oct 2014
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apR7wX4QHxI 10.24 is epic!
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Old 2 Nov 2014
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That was a motorcycle magazine journalist testing the bike - but he forgot about the panniers. Whoops.
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