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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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  #1  
Old 2 Aug 2007
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Last gasp!

Ok, Ive checked so bloody much on the XT and getting nowhere. Ive found that the right hand exhaust valve has very little gap, if this is the problem, then I will MOT it and see what happens, if not, Im breaking the damn thing and buying a nearly new KLE.

It has loadsa new parts and would be a great basis for somebody, but to be honest, my interest has gone.


Anyone interested in a project or breker for bits gimme a shout.

Pete
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  #2  
Old 2 Aug 2007
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which model?
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  #3  
Old 2 Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by Basspete View Post
Ok, Ive checked so bloody much on the XT and getting nowhere. Ive found that the right hand exhaust valve has very little gap, if this is the problem, then I will MOT it and see what happens, if not, Im breaking the damn thing and buying a nearly new KLE.

It has loadsa new parts and would be a great basis for somebody, but to be honest, my interest has gone.


Anyone interested in a project or breker for bits gimme a shout.

Pete

Pete,
Your latest post is a bit confusing because it is completely disconnected from your earlier ones; if you can link in your earlier posts, or summarise what you have experienced or know about the problem, I reckon you will get good advice and support here!
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Old 2 Aug 2007
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Ok, I opened up the exhaust valves to the correct clearances, bump started it down a hill, and it goes!!!!!!!

The valves were all set, but I dunno, they must have closed up.

It's popping a bit on the overun, I dont think the exhaust is very well sealed. One of the exhaust studs snapped when refitting the exhaust. Another job to be done!

I have now fitted new relays, neutral light switch, disconnected the fuel pump and all the daft cut outs on a 3AJ, new rectifier, new plug, replaced all the joints in the ignition wiring.

I now have a good spark, a supply of petrol, (niether were great) so I take it the exhaust valve was open slightly, and drawing in air, causing the carb shooting backfires.

Any advice as to how to remove an exhaust stud without removing the head?

I might just rebuild the relationship with my Tenere after all!

Pete
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  #5  
Old 2 Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by Basspete View Post
Any advice as to how to remove an exhaust stud without removing the head?
You're pretty much gonna *need* to pull the head, trying to get a stud out without doing so is a painful process. Hell, it can be a painful process *without* pulling the head...

As to how you get the stud out, a lot depends on what tools you have, and how the stud is broken. If there's any of the stud left protruding, your life might be made somewhat easier. If it's flush, you *might* get it out with a fine punch and a hammer. I'd steer clear of extractors, if you snap one off in the remnants of the stud you're in for a helluva job. I've made that mistake before.

This is a good link - it's for Volvo cars <spit>, but it's alu heads and steel studs, so relevant - Exhaust

Simon
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Old 2 Aug 2007
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Thanks for that, Ive got about 4/5 mm protruding. I'll have a go at getting it out in situ, but if I have to, I'll drop the engine.


Pete
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Old 2 Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by Basspete View Post
Thanks for that, Ive got about 4/5 mm protruding. I'll have a go at getting it out in situ, but if I have to, I'll drop the engine.


Pete

Pete,
I guess you will apply lots of penetrating oil and give it plenty of time to soak into the thread; then "worry" the stud, applying more oil as required.

You could get a quote for a workshop to remove it insitu using their specialist tools; depends how you value your time versus your cash!

Quite agree, if the exhaust is loose it could be causing the popping but maybe you should check the fuel inlets to ensure they are well sealed.

You've got a spark and you have fuel flowing so you can't be far away!!
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