10Likes
|
|
11 Aug 2012
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 168
|
|
rear brake pads cant fit
Hi, the piston seems to be too far out for the brake pads to fit. How can I get the piston in again for more space? (i havent touched the brake)
|
11 Aug 2012
|
|
Registered Users
HUBB regular
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Scottish Borders
Posts: 24
|
|
Hi
I left the old pad in on the piston side and used a set of water pump pliers to ease it back, squeezing on the pad and caliper, you need to protect the caliper with a thin bit of wood to stop it getting marked, or you could leave the old pads in and lever between them with some strong screwdrivers, it's worked for me every time.
Best of luck.....
|
11 Aug 2012
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 168
|
|
Thanks, i got it back now. But now i cant get the pads in, its just not enough space on the back side of the brakedisc, between the brakedisc and the caliper body..the caliper body wont be able to be taken down into place.
|
12 Aug 2012
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lithuania
Posts: 204
|
|
I use a clamp like this:
http://static.traderscity.com/board/...amp-wood-1.jpg
works perfectly. Maybe your caliper isn't moving where it supposed to move? Some pictures pointing out the problem would really help.
|
12 Aug 2012
|
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: London
Posts: 404
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zergman
Some pictures pointing out the problem would really help.
|
yep.
For instance, is the caliper single-sided? (A piston on one side only).
From this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by bergspre
its just not enough space on the back side of the brakedisc, between the brakedisc and the caliper body..the caliper body wont be able to be taken down into place.
|
I assume it is.
In which case, the whole caliper slides side-to-side on two pins, underneath little rubber gaiters.
Sometimes when you change the pads, specially if it's a long time since they were last changed, the caliper seizes on the pins. But it's usually easy to free off.
So if the caliper isn't moving side-to-side, you'll need to work out how you remove the caliper from the pins. Sometimes they unscrew from the caliper-holder, or there might be some clip arrangement.
You'll need to clean the pins - there may be rust there - and grease them carefully.
Don't damage the rubber gaiters.
A close-up photo or two would help, both sides of the caliper.
(Or the exact model of bike, probably someone here will know the procedure straightaway).
|
12 Aug 2012
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 168
|
|
Its a XT600E year 2000
I can take some pictures today. Maybe its necessary to take off the whole caliper body and clean it..i dont like the idea of having to bleed the system cause ive never done that before, so thats why i havent taken it apart yet.
|
12 Aug 2012
|
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: London
Posts: 404
|
|
Don't worry about bleeding. Usually no need to interfere with the hydraulics at all to clean up the sliding mechanism.
It would be handy to have a solid box or something similar, the height of the caliper off the ground, to give you a solid surface to work on.
And whatever you do, don't separate the two halves of the caliper - that's not necessary either.
Just as a safeguard, make sure there's no way you can accidentally press the rear brake pedal - just in case......
|
12 Aug 2012
|
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: West Wales, UK
Posts: 753
|
|
Pad replacement can be done by just swinging the caliper up away from the disc, but it's usually easier to remove it altogether. As long as you don't disturb the hose joint, you don't need to bleed it afterwards.
I usually use some water pump (slip-joint) pliers or at a pinch a woodworking clamp, and a big screwdriver with some wooden wedges. Anything to force the piston (pistons in the case of the front brake) evenly right back without touching the side surfaces. It/they must go right back into the caliper body so that they are flush or below - if they are proud of the caliper, even by a mm or so, they wil not go back with new pads.
Remove the part of the caliper that holds the pad opposite the piston (from memory, it just pulls off), clean and grease the sliding pins and reassemble making sure the rubber boots locate correctly in their grooves.
You've then got to get the anti-squeal shims and the pads back into the caliper - I find this the hardest bit of the operation as it is fiddly and requires three hands The shims are meant to clip in place, but if they are old they have lost their spring and will need holding. The caliper and pads should then slide over the disc, put the bolts back in, torque correctly, pump the pedal to restore pressure, and you're done.
If the above doesn't work, then there is something wrong somewhere, as it's a relatively easy and straightforward job. Pics would help here.
Hope this helps.
|
23 Sep 2012
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 168
|
|
|
24 Sep 2012
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lithuania
Posts: 204
|
|
The piston is obviously too far out, you need to push it back in. To do that I use a tool like in my previous post.
|
24 Sep 2012
|
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Nieder-Olm, Germany
Posts: 144
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zergman
The piston is obviously too far out, you need to push it back in. To do that I use a tool like in my previous post.
|
These tools sometimes tend to give a false sense of security. I remember when I could not move the darn piston with that tool, but could do so with the pressure of my thumb. Slightly misaligned pressure will absolutely block the piston and may cause damage. Push it out a bit more, clean the piston thoroughly, apply some break fluid and push.
BUT: Given the fact that most people have to top off the brake fluid as the pads wear down, it´s ususally a good idea to open the fluid container and remove excessive fluid when pressing back the piston - as there will just not be enough room in the container to accept all the fluid.
Cheers
Chris
|
30 Sep 2012
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 168
|
|
I have taken the piston in, shouldnt have taken the picture before i did that.
Anyway, even when the piston is completely in, there is no way to fit any break pads. The biggest problem is the outside of the brakedisc where it seems to be like 1-2mm clearance.
Basically when i push down that big clunk on the top(caliperbody?) it wont come down if theres a break pad in there. When pushed down it covers the whole thing and its too close to the breakdisc..
Some of you said sliding pins,but i couldnt find any way to move the caliperbodys part individually. It looks like its 1 whole piece.
|
30 Sep 2012
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lithuania
Posts: 204
|
|
If you are disassembling it like in the picture - you have unbolted a sliding pin.
Put it back together, and unbolt the two bolts at the bottom (marked), and then try to fit the pads.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Rear ones are super easy to fit if you got the correct pads and everything was working as should before you disassembled. I'd say maybe the disc is too big, but that's not the case here.
|
5 Jul 2013
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 168
|
|
I have unbolted the two bolts at the bottom but obviously theres something wrong. Are the 2 sliding pins supposed to adjust the width of space where the disc is coming in between?
The left sliding pin can be loosened, the caliper will then pivot around the sliding pin on the right side.
I think maybe the right side sliding pin is stuck. Is that supposed to slide out?I cant see any screws or anything, so if thats supposed to slide out it must be really stuck or rusted. ?
Here is a picture with annotations:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zergman
If you are disassembling it like in the picture - you have unbolted a sliding pin.
Put it back together, and unbolt the two bolts at the bottom (marked), and then try to fit the pads.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Rear ones are super easy to fit if you got the correct pads and everything was working as should before you disassembled. I'd say maybe the disc is too big, but that's not the case here.
|
|
5 Jul 2013
|
|
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: wirral
Posts: 270
|
|
Hi There!
In your photo, undo the bolt on the left and remove it. The caliper body will then rotate upwards, with the caliper almost at right angles to its original position, it should slide off (towards you). Hope this helps
Bill
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Next HU Events
ALL Dates subject to change.
2024:
- California: April 18-21
- Virginia: April 25-28
- Germany Summer: May 9-12
- Québec: May 17-19
- Bulgaria Mini: July 5-7
- CanWest: July 11-14
- Switzerland: August 15-18
- Ecuador: August 23-25
- Romania: August 30-Sept 1
- Austria: September 12-15
- France: September 20-22
- Germany Autumn: Oct 31-Nov 3
2025 Confirmed Events:
- Virginia: April 24-27 2025
- Queensland is back! May 2-4 2025
- Germany Summer: May 29-June 1 2025
- CanWest: July 10-13 2025
- Switzerland: Date TBC
- Ecuador: Date TBC
- Romania: Date TBC
- Austria: Sept. 11-15
- California: September 18-21
- France: September 19-21 2025
- Germany Autumn: Oct 30-Nov 2 2025
Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!
Questions about an event? Ask here
See all event details
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
|
|
|