Hi,

I'm thinking of fitting a re-useable Scotts Stainless Steel Oil Filter to my 2001 XT600e to avoid carrying spare paper filters with me on my next trip.

Scotts Performance Products

Does anybody got any experience with using these?

Thanks

Yes . . . they're made by K&P Engineering in the USA and have an excellent reputation. Recently, a consumer (accepts no advertising) motorcycle magazine (Motorcycle Consumer News) did a test and story on their filters giving strong recommendations.

They're very popular with racing teams because the blow-off valve is of a very hiqh quality and for some water-cooled bikes because they will not clog if water enters the oil and damages the paper/fiber pleats in normal filters.

Statistically speaking . . . they keep more dirt out of your bike's oil.

I use one in several bikes including a DRZ, KTM 950 ADV, Husaberg FE570 and formerly a KTM EXC 530.

It means no worries about storing paper filters while traveling and a little kerosene will clean the filter.

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Orange, it's the new black.

I've got one on my xchallenge, but it has only recently been installed so I can't give much of a report yet. I try to post here if any problems develop.

They are a good bit of kit, mines a few years old and still looks brand new, I clean it with hot water, dish soap and an old toothbrush for any stubborn particles, rinse from clean to dirty side, air dry in sun or if air temp is cold you can warm it over a stove, be careful not to over heat it as it is sealed with what looks like an epoxy, so not too much direct heat (flames) but make sure it is fully dry before putting it back obviously.

Saved the need for carrying a bunch of filters for our South America trip

Also a good idea to use a magnetic sump plug too.

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Cheers
Grif

'11 KTM 450 EXC
'09 Suzuki DR650
'00 Discovery Series 2 V8
'95 Defender 90 300 Tdi Overlander
http://gipperstravels.blogspot.ca

At the risk of (gently!) contradicting someone, trying very hard not to ruffle any feathers, here are some facts:

1- the stainless steel filter on the Scott filters down to 35 microns.
2- The filter I use on my F650 is the OX119 paper filter made by Mahle and it filters down to 10-12 microns *
In other words it is three times more efficient at filtration.

3- Paper filters are also three dimentional whereas stainless steel filters are, effectively, just 2 so it can be compared to a sieve.

4- The Scott filter will allow a greater flow of oil through than the OE paper one in the same amount of time due to its construction

If a coolant seal was to go turning your oil to 'chocolate', a paper filter would clog up much quicker and your oil pressure would rise triggering your warning light much sooner than if you have the Scotts filter fitted.

I have a Scotts filter in my spares kit in case I cannot find or run out of the OE.

You pays your money, you makes your choices and you takes your chances! but you might want to check on the micron size for your bike's oil filter!

and +1 for the magnetic sump plug.
There is one for the F650 which uses an Allen key- It works better than the spanner version as it doesn't 'chew' the soft aluminium edges.

and just in case (*) here is a screen shot of Mahle's email to me who manufactures my OX119 oil filter.

My wife and I have a pair of Kawasaki Super Sherpas, year 2009. I got fed up carrying paper filters and switched to Scotts stainless filters. Each bike now has 92,000 km on the clock w/o any problems so far. Microns??--what, me worry!!?? It filters the oil; I take it out and clean it--sometimes--and change the oil frequently since we work these little engines pretty hard. Anyway, for what it is worth.

You may have heard this before...size matters!

Yep, the stainless filters are in the same category as K&N air filters, they get better flo by reducing filtration. While 25 microns approx. is the size of white blood cells, so they are filtering decently, they just don't compare to the "ideal" size of 10-15 micron. A lot of racers change their oil every race and usually do motor work regardless, as long as big metal particles are not getting through, the oil is changed before big damage can be done. Also most healthy motors really don't have as much bad stuff floating around in the oil so not much damage is done.

On the other hand......when a filter allows higher flo and less bypass, more oil is being filtered each time around. Plus faster circulation on initial startup (when quite a bit of wear occurs) get oil to the critical area sooner than a better( but less flow) filter.

I personally run standard oem style filters plus magnets on the plugs and on the side of the oil tanks, where possible.

Oil filters are rated for size STATISTICALLY. In actual tests (and this has been verified MANY times) the screens used in the K&P (Scotts) filters remove more, not less dirt from the oil than paper filters AND filter to a smaller absolute size.

See pt 4 in the K&P FAQ.

The beauty of all of this is that it's accomplished at such low minimum oil pressure.

There's one thing modern engines (dry sump) don't like - low oil pressure.

Finally, water in the oil could cause a tearing of a paper element filter (eventually) which could lead to a clogging of the oil pump and . . . catastrophic engine failure. There's no chance of this with a Scott's/K&P filter.

No feathers ruffled but perhaps a few straightened.

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Orange, it's the new black.

A good read, always looking for good info . You never know when you'll learn something or verify what you thought was correct. I figured the less/no bypass and quick startup circulation was a big part of what they did good, wasn't so sure on the particle size and capturing area. I never have heard anyone claim they caused a worn out motor.
Old(er) people can learn things any time

I'm no fan of the K&N filters - they DO pass more dirt and I'd never use one on a non-race engine.

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Orange, it's the new black.

Coolant in oil doesn't necessarily turn it to gunky chocolate either.

I've drained oil pans with badly contaminated oil and it flowed like water.

The most recent one I did was on an early F800ST with a failed heat exchange unit. The customer had been riding it for 3000 miles with no warnings whatsoever. It flowed just like hot oil.

I'd have a stainless filter if mine weren't so cheap in the first place.

However, Bert is right !! I think paper is a better filter for minute particles. How much of a difference it makes to the actual long term health of your engine is any ones guess.

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Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

My question is how do you really know that the filter is really clean when we are talking about microns filtering, when using paper change you always have new clean start. I would recon that after a few oil changes the flow aint that good anymore and small particles is stuck in the filter.

Yes, I've seen badly contaminated oil flow quite nicely, too. The issue is the water's damage to the paper element. The element tears, clogs the oil pump and . . . catastrophic engine failure or at least lots of unnecessary wear from poor oil circulation from the impact to the pump.


Nope - you're cheap now. (I think that's well understood.) 6-10 changes with a new filter and . . . you're ROI is quite good and you're sending less gunk to a landfill.

Uh . . . no. Testing has completely refuted the alleged superiority of paper elements. The rating is a statistical one (not deterministic) and actual testing show the Scotts/K&P to be much better than ANY ASTM rated paper filter.

See pt 4 in the K&P FAQ.

Clearly paper "works" but many things do advance, though sometimes at a higher initial cost.

__________________
Orange, it's the new black.