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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  • 1 Post By steveloomis
  • 1 Post By xtrock
  • 1 Post By *Touring Ted*
  • 1 Post By awolxt

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  #1  
Old 27 Aug 2015
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security
I want to fit a cut out switch in the wiring of my bike as an extra security deterrent. I believe the on/off switch needs to be in the wiring that goes to the positive on the coil. Is this correct? Any particular type of switch thats better for this? I was obviously going to make this switch as hidden as possible. Cheers in advance of any help or ideas!

Bill
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Old 27 Aug 2015
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Get a switch like this http://98.124.154.122/index.php?app=...a88234x1f50ogv and hook it inline with the red wire that comes of the battery with the fuse. Mount it under the seat somewhere.

If you really wanted to you can get the handlebar mount and put it up there, just hang it down so it's kind of hidden or upside down. Who's going to think they need to hit that switch to start it when trying to steal it ?
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Old 28 Aug 2015
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If it were me, I have the CDI version and it does not use the battery for anything to run, I would put a hidden switch to ground the kill wire to the CDI. Unless the thieves are smart and know to pull the black/white strip wire off the cdi they won't be able to start it. My 2 cents. i'd refrain from looping a vital function through a hidden switch. If the switch goes bad you are in trouble. An open switch to ground should not cause problems.
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Old 28 Aug 2015
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Both good ideas! I have the tci version i dont suppose that makes a difference to anything though? The thieves that stole my bike had cut the ignition wires and had the starter motor turning according to the witness. They just couldnt get it to fire. Im guessing they couldnt work out what the other ignition wires were for.(i know i couldnt when i was trying to bypass the ignition switch a few weeks back) Thanks for the ideas guys!

Bill
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Old 28 Aug 2015
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Switch failure is a non issue, if it was there'd be thousands of bikes running around at night with their lights run on them at the brink of disaster ,however they don't suddenly loose power, with the tci the power wire going to the cdi is a good choice. The idea is to stop power from getting anywhere so a thief can't use it to jump anything.
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Old 28 Aug 2015
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So essentially , if i put a switch in the same circuit as the engine run/off kill switch. But hidden that would be simple but effective? Someone suggested reversing the actual kill switch wiring so run is off and off is run as a simple way of confusing thieves. I prefer the hidden switch myself. Thanks again jjrider

Bill
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Old 28 Aug 2015
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Ya the reversing the kill switch is a decent idea, thieves may automatically flop it both ways when tinkering though so I wouldn't trust it. There is a hot wire that goes to the starter relay, that would be the one, I believe it is red with yellow strip down there. It runs up to the cdi . It is the same one that goes up to the kill switch also but is red with white stripe then. I'd cut it way back between the battery and relay so no power goes anywhere. Wire colors may be different over there, I'm not sure.
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Old 29 Aug 2015
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Using high quality sealed switches will insure you are not likely to have more problems than you are trying to solve. Cheap switches will get wet and fail. Look at the environment they will have to endure.
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Old 29 Aug 2015
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sealed switch for boats will do.
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Old 29 Aug 2015
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If I had the choice I would have a switch that would prevent the bike from starting, but not kill it whilst it is already running.

Without knowing the loom in question in detail, I wouldn't like to suggest where exactly to put it, but it shouldn't be too hard to work out.

This is easy with an electric start bike as you'd just isolate the stater relay.

With a non battery required CDI it gets kind of tricky.

If fairness, you can have it anywhere you like, and if the bike cuts out then YOU know where to look and you can just bypass the switch quite easily in that respect. Maybe have a jumper cable ready to go with the same connectors.

As long as your use high quality new cable and connectors and do the job properly, your inline switch should be just as (or more) reliable than the rest of the bike.

This reminds me that I might put a switch into my own.
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Old 29 Aug 2015
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I was a gnats whisker from losing my bike to the pondlife that stirs when it goes dark Ted... anything that stops them or perhaps slows them down enough to make them walk away is a winner with me. Need the newly reinstalled alarm to remain unaffected by anything i do also. Waterproof switch ordered! Thanks for the advice


Bill
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Old 29 Aug 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awolxt View Post
I was a gnats whisker from losing my bike to the pondlife that stirs when it goes dark Ted... anything that stops them or perhaps slows them down enough to make them walk away is a winner with me. Need the newly reinstalled alarm to remain unaffected by anything i do also. Waterproof switch ordered! Thanks for the advice


Bill
Personally I don't like alarms that wire into the loom. Especially when they immobilise your ignition. Just another thing to go wrong and drain your battery.

Another option would be to get a direct to battery alarm.Gorilla make them. They work off vibration or tilt and you can fine tune it's sensitivity with the remote fobs. They're cheap too and easily disconnected once you know where it is. They don't have internal batteries If I remember correctly.


Or just get a very good disc alarm.
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Old 29 Aug 2015
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I agree Ted. I dont like the idea of cutting into the loom for an alarm. The one ive fitted had various options, one of which was an immobiliser function. I really just wanted something that made a noise that would be heard if the swines lifted it, so i didnt connect that wire....and like you mention i was a bit concerned that if the alarm went tits up with the immobiliser function in use it would cause a few problems. More than likely in a dark lane in the hissing rain!
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