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17 Feb 2010
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snapped bolt
Help,ive just snapped a exhaust port bolt..whats the best way to get it out ...regards,punchy....
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17 Feb 2010
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AHHHHHHHHHHH...
Very common problem on XT600's...
If you are lucky and you can still see some of the bolt then you can try tapping it around with a screwdriver. Long and laborious but it does work eventually, but only if it's no seized (which it probably is).
You can also use a stud extractor but you need a fair bit of thread left out for these to work.
All the other methods involve removing the head off the engine which isnt the hardest job in the world.
From there you can weld a nut onto the thread (and the heat of the welding should losen it too)..
Worst case scenario is that you're drilling out the bolt slowly with a smaller drill bit and then using an internal stud extractor.
If even that doesnt work.. You will have to drill out the whole bolt then have a helicoil (or better, TIMESERT) put it.
With all of the methods.. A blowtorch will get it hot and help to get it out.
If you're not menchanically competent, take the head off and hand it to a backstreet engine reconditioner or bike shop. £50-£100 at a guess.
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17 Feb 2010
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I'd not bother with the "easy-out" extractors (lower photo) as these are brittle and as you'd need a really small one - its just gonna snap in there and you'll never drill it out!
If it won't move, the heads gonna HAVE to come off - or you'll damage it ! Then you can carefully drill it out on a pillar drill & may get away with just running a tap down it.... Or as mentioned a helicoil kit.
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17 Feb 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigford
I'd not bother with the "easy-out" extractors (lower photo) as these are brittle and as you'd need a really small one - its just gonna snap in there and you'll never drill it out!
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I've used them successfully on quite a few siezed, snapped studs.
It does take care and experience though. And yes, i've snapped them in the past.
It's worth a go before taking a black and decker to the head on a dodgy shed vice though. Less risky options should always be tried first in my experience. If you take the core out of the snapped bolt and inscrease the bit size until there is just a thin cylinder left, the "easyout" will bring it out with no problems.
They snap when people don't drill out enough of the offending seized bolt.
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17 Feb 2010
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As you say Ted, they can do the job well, but if you're not used to them, they can be a bugger! Sod's law is a "constant" ....
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17 Feb 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigford
As you say Ted, they can do the job well, but if you're not used to them, they can be a bugger! Sod's law is a "constant" ....
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Ain't that the truth.. lol
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19 Feb 2010
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A couple of other ideas from the bodgers arsenal:
Dremel a slot or flats so a screwdriver or molegrips work better.
Put a couple of nuts on with epoxy liquid metal down the threads. Lock them against each other (but with flats together if you can) and leave overnight. Turn with a socket long enough to get hold of both, mole grips, a pair of spanners etc.
Heat, easing oil and patience are your friend and much cheaper than spark errosion.
Andy
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21 Feb 2010
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Had exactly the same problem on mine with 3 snapped studs. After trying with mole grips and getting no where fast I used the welding method as mentioned and welded a nut onto what was left of each stud and all 3 then unscrewed without any problems at all.
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21 Feb 2010
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as I've said over and over lol WELD
Vando
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