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Stuborn flywheel (molten) XT600 1997 Stuborn flywheel (molten) XT600 1997
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 1 Sep 2020
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Stuborn flywheel (molten) XT600 1997
Hi,

I tried removing my flywheel from my 1997 XT600 3TB.
From the search in this forum I already came upon shock, heat and hammer.
However this did not work and it made things worse. The heat was aplied for maybe 1 or 2 minutes and already some molten metal came out of the edges of the flywheel(rotor assy). Which surprised me quite a lot as some people posted they heated it for 15 minutes...

How screwed am I? Do I need a new flywheel/rotor assy? Also the flywheel is still stuck.

Will try to take a pictures tomorrow.

Let me know what to do.
Thanks!
Last edited by MB1988; 1 Sep 2020 at 22:44.
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  #2  
Old 2 Sep 2020
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not good... the "molten metal" is the resin fixing the magnets to the rotor.


if you want piece of mind, then yes, you need another flywheel, used or new


dont know what/where you read, but the right way is to build or buy an rotor extractor/puller, better get it, you need it anyway.



so many threads explaining that, dont know how you missed them...



not that difficult to DIY really, here is mine


https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...030_214043.jpg
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  #3  
Old 2 Sep 2020
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You need a proper puller/extractor. The XT600 Rotor is one of the hardest to remove I've come across and I fix engines for a living.

Forget a hammer. Unless you're putting it back on.
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  #4  
Old 2 Sep 2020
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Yeah, ofcourse I did use an extractor puller. Actually I used 2. The first one destroyed the threads and second one is almost the same. And I did lubricate the threads.

So mine might be even more stuck than normal for a xt600. And apparently a xt600 is already more stuck than other bikes.

Fml
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  #5  
Old 2 Sep 2020
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If you used the correct extractor with the correct amount of heat in the right place, then there is NO WAY an extractor would strip threads.

Unless it's been installed incorrectly.

I think you're getting past the DIY stage. You may need a slide hammer and a welder now or take it to someone with the correct tools.
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Old 2 Sep 2020
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The threads on the puller itself. Not from the crankshaft. My bad if I was unclear.

My thoughts as well to bring it to a specialist. Kinda feels like losing as it would be a first.
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Old 3 Sep 2020
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post pics of those pullers, interesting to see also what doesnt work....


if the stator is already bad, then you could weaken with an angle grinder the central part that clamps on the shaft till it cracks, seal rest of engine with a bag against the abrasive dust
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  #8  
Old 4 Sep 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MB1988 View Post
So mine might be even more stuck than normal for a xt600. And apparently a xt600 is already more stuck than other bikes.
They are ALL bastards to get off, our friend Geoff uses the boiling water method, pours a jug over the flywheel & tightens slightly, boils another jug & repeats and again & again until it goes "pop" and fly`s across the workshop.

This process may take up to an hour or more.

Mezo.
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  #9  
Old 7 Sep 2020
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The promised pictures.

Stuborn flywheel (molten) XT600 1997-20200907_174824.jpg

Stuborn flywheel (molten) XT600 1997-20200907_174754.jpg

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  #10  
Old 7 Sep 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
not good... the "molten metal" is the resin fixing the magnets to the rotor.

if you want piece of mind, then yes, you need another flywheel, used or new

https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...030_214043.jpg
Prefer not to buy a new one.
I guess I can just fit a secondhand one from the same make (3TB) or are more makes/years possible?
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  #11  
Old 18 Sep 2020
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Originally Posted by MB1988 View Post
Prefer not to buy a new one.
I guess I can just fit a secondhand flywheel from the same make (3TB) or are more makes/years possible?
So I guess no problem with a secondhand flywheel from a 3TB?
Or can I use other makes as well?
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  #12  
Old 18 Sep 2020
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Yeah 3TB/ 4PT and TT600RE flywheels only as they will suit the TCI system
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  #13  
Old 18 Sep 2020
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A Tip on using a puller - tighten it really tight, and give the centre bolt a good bang with a very big steel hammer - that will often do it. It needs the pressure and the shock. Heat doesn't hurt either, but it's always been the big bang that does the job for me.
Trick with heat is temperature differential - get the OUTER part good and warm, and the SHAFT cold - so the outer needs heating quickly - NOT 15 minutes, and then an icy rag on the shaft for 10-15 seconds or so, with lots of pressure already on it, and then a good bang is the ultimate in my experience.
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  #14  
Old 18 Sep 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Johnson View Post
A Tip on using a puller - tighten it really tight, and give the centre bolt a good bang with a very big steel hammer - that will often do it. It needs the pressure and the shock. Heat doesn't hurt either, but it's always been the big bang that does the job for me.
Trick with heat is temperature differential - get the OUTER part good and warm, and the SHAFT cold - so the outer needs heating quickly - NOT 15 minutes, and then an icy rag on the shaft for 10-15 seconds or so, with lots of pressure already on it, and then a good bang is the ultimate in my experience.
too late, he first posted here when the rotor was already, f%^&*d up....


but tip could be good to post as a sticky.... agree with your system BTW
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  #15  
Old 23 Sep 2020
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Originally Posted by dzl View Post
Yeah 3TB/ 4PT and TT600RE flywheels only as they will suit the TCI system
Thanks.
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