Hello All,

I am collecting my new XT660Z Tenere tomorrow and plan on doing the "running in" with a 1000km roundtrip this weekend. The ride is entirely tarred highway in both directions so it will be a nice easy ride for the bike.

The manual simply talks about not exceeding 4500RPM for the first 1000km however would like to enquire about any other running in tips to ensure maximum long term benefits for the bike?

Thank you in advance..

Rui

Don't do it!

There is a lot of mysticism around engine break in!
you have to do it right or you'll never get the best relability out of that engine!

Google for motorcycle 4-stroke engine break in or something similar and you will see a lot of contradicting information!


Vando

There's a school of thought that says cane it from the off, and that way the rings bed in properly with the heat. The old school way was to start gently and build both revs and throttle opening gradually over 500-1000 miles, to allow all the moving parts to bed against each other as they go through the heat cycles. With modern materials and manufacturing, I think the old way is probably too kind, but if ever I get a new engine I always treat it gently. Once you've been taught one way, it's hard to do it differently.

I'd just say drive it moderately, don't go mad, and enjoy it. One thing's for sure - you'll never get fuel consumption figures like that again!

__________________
2006 XT660R daily ride, 1994 XT600E about to be reborn, Blog: http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/

Forgot to say - you lucky, lucky b*st*rd. I want one of those

__________________
2006 XT660R daily ride, 1994 XT600E about to be reborn, Blog: http://goingfastgettingnowhere.blogspot.com/

I always think the sign of a good break-in is low oil use afterwards. I've used the same method for all of my new bikes, 5 now, and have had good results. I usually complete the run-in period in two or three days. I basicly ride normally from mile one but without hard acceleration in the first 100 or so. I make sure that I slow the bike down on the over-run using engine braking too. I'm also gradual with the brakes using harder applications as the miles clock up. I gradually increase my revs and acceleration up to the 500-600 mark and first service including some full throttle towards the end. Don't worry about the odd bit of full throttle early on either if you need it for a safe overtake. Once the first service is done I use the full rev range over the next 500 or so before settling down to my usual "sedate" style of riding.

All I can say is it has worked for me on everything from 250 singles to 1000cc triples and my current 1200 Guzzi. I ran that one in in 3 days and then did 4k in the French Alps and the Pyrenees in the first 6 weeks. It's smoothed out and is oil tight.

As has been said though, everyone has a different idea so no one person can say they're 100% correct. This guy seems to know what he's talking about so read this first...

Running In | Ash On Bikes

Good luck.

Depends whether you want a fast sloppy engine, or a tight reliable one.

Manufactures will always ease on the side of caution & tell you not to thrash it straight away, they want you to tell all your friends how reliable it is & they will go & buy one as well <KERCHING>

I like my engine to pick up quickly off the mark, stuff reliability have fun.

Id take it out & slowly warm it up to correct temp (20 mins) then go & thrash it almost to max, then ride home taking time to cool the engine. Then next day do the same thing but take it further to the max, and repeat again for a third but this time ring its neck, get the revs right up to max &then take it home allowing for a proper cool down. One fast engine.

Or take it direct from the dealer when new to a rolling road & do it there its quicker & safer.

Your going on a long ride taking it easy, that's great but it wont be a fast engine, and when i mean fast i mean on pick up, faster revving.

But it will be what Yamaha want

My 2 Cents

Mezo.

Just ride like normal - but go a bit easier - common sense will tell you whats right.

Don't go doing 30mph in top gear up a hill, with the throttle wide open !!!!!!! Vary the revs, use the gearbox lots & enjoy.

Agree; follow the manufacturer's directions - they built the damn thing.

I wouldn't thrash a new bike out of the box. No way. Rev varying and engine breaking with no excess loading seem to be the key; I'd keep the revs down initially too.

Google " Break In Secrets"

__________________
Remember that Assumption is the mother of all f**k-ups.

Thanks for the tips guys. Pigford, my sense is that your advice is correct as this is the manner in which I have ridden 3 new bikes in, in the past and worked well from a performance and oil and fuel consumption perspective thereafter.

Just picked it up 1 hour ago and completed my first 25km..

I am riding the bike from Cape Town (home town) to Cairo in July and August so still going through the process of adding aftermarket items but thus far have added/ordered the following:

Akrapovic exhaust system (to be installed on Monday next week)
Larger footpegs (fastway)
Bar Raisers (30mm)
Throttel Rocker (kappa)
Rear Brake lever extension (touratech)
High Front mudguard (3 weeks from touratech!!)
Side Stand extension (touratech)
Main Stand (yamaha)
Plumbed accelerator and brake cables (yamaha)
Steel mesh headlight protector (3 weeks from touratech)
Onboard power sockets (touratech)
xenon spot lights (wunderlich)
Crash Bars (kappa)
Large Engine guard with toolbox (3 weeks from touratech)
Aluminium Chain Guard (ditto touratech)
Rectifier cover (touratech)
Barbusters (yamaha)
Radiator mesh kit (3 weeks from metalmule)
High screen (kappa)
Aftermarket rear suspension (ohlins)
Top Box 30L (Yamaha OEM)
Panniers (undecided but leaning towards Touratech zega pro's..any thoughts?)

Have you placed the order for this? the Off-the-road offering is a better item, and you can get a toolbox on this too. The problem is the mounting points on the bike, the OTR plate uses it's own mountings where the Toriatech one uses the Yamaha luggs welded to the frame (2mm steel with M6 nuts)


This is a waste of cash. The reason? The rectifier is located behind a thick steel heat sink, this item from Touratech just bolts onto the same steel heatsink!! So the rectifier is already protected. You would be advised to check the connection and water-proof it as soon as you can though (some people have had problems with this connection)


If you are planning an overland trip with this be aware that the mounting is ABS plastic and the locking mechanism is very susceptable to dirt. You need to keep the lock and internal plastic parts well lubricated and clean. You would be better advised to use a rear rack and a waterproof bag.


Panniers (undecided but leaning towards Touratech zega pro's..any thoughts?)[/quote]

I have used both the OE panniers (and top box) and the TT Zega Pro's. The problem with the OE ones is the same as the top box - they are very strong and are tougher than they look but small and you can't actually get much in them.
The Zega Pro's are a great piece of kit that fit well on the Tenere, Much better than the old Zega cases with improved locking/fastening and intergral lanyards to keep the box and lid in the same place. You can use these as a stand for the bike too (so you could do without the centre stand ) with a decent bash plate.