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Valve clearances 2002 600E Valve clearances 2002 600E
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 12 Oct 2008
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Valve clearances 2002 600E
Hi folks, hoping to take advantage of advice from anyone who's done the valve clearances, just as part of the regular servicing, with the engine is still in place.

Anything to look out for, be careful of, do while I'm there?

I never seem to get the clearances bob on, am I right in thinking I should err on the wide side, clearance wise?

(She does get pretty hot on a regular basis, on the tougher, more technical green lanes, when I get stuck!!


Thanks in advance - anyones twopenny's worth is most welcome!
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Old 13 Oct 2008
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well, It's normal for it to heat up... it's air cooled remember? xD

As for the valve clearance, I have no clue how to do it... If you get the workshop manual of the 1990 XT600E it should be exactly the same as your 2002

download the workshop manual from here: Smokin' Lizard

Vando
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Old 13 Oct 2008
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Originally Posted by bacardi23 View Post
well, It's normal for it to heat up... it's air cooled remember?
Vando
Yup, and when there's not much air moving past it, it gets pretty hot!

Thanks for the link, much appreciated.
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Old 16 Oct 2008
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Feel ....
The gauge should go through not too easily, not too stiffly, as we say in Dutch it should go through 'sucking'. This does not help you, I understand, so follow the rules as follows:
* Do not worry too much - being off 1/100th of a millimeter will not affect reliability
* The manual says inlet 0.08 - 0.10 (on mine, that is) - so there is margin! Personnally, I set the inlet 'stiff' on a 0.1 feeler gauge
* My manual says 0.10 - 0.15 for exhaust - margin again. So I set it with a 0.15 feeler g., stiff again.

Oh, and my engine has survived 120.000 km's.

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Old 16 Oct 2008
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Originally Posted by aukeboss View Post

Auke
Exactly what I was after!

Thanks for the input.
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Old 8 Aug 2009
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I want to do this now too and i understand the manual except 1 thing. It says to turn it so you can see the T mark.

But it also says "be sure the piston is at the Top Dead Center on compression stroke".

Does this mean i have to turn it to the T mark and THEN also check that its on the compression stroke? How do you check that?put your finger in the sparkplug-hole?
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Old 9 Aug 2009
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Originally Posted by aukeboss View Post
The gauge should go through not too easily, not too stiffly, as we say in Dutch it should go through 'sucking'.
That's a very good description! I was taught that it should be a 'firm sliding fit' - a bit like drawing a knife through butter. It's one of things that you just get the 'feel' with practice.
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Old 20 Mar 2010
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The 1990 version 1 manual says 0.05-0.1 for inlet.

I have a question though, will the gap increase over time or get tighter?

Will the engine feel better/run better on the smallest gap possible 0.05 then a higher gap? So if the clearance increases over time the closer to 0.05 you can get when setting it the better?
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