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xt600 3aj - what tools xt600 3aj - what tools
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Sean Howman, The Pamir highway in an unseasonably cold late October, Tajikistan

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Photo by Sean Howman,
The Pamir highway in an unseasonably
cold late October, Tajikistan



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Old 24 Sep 2003
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xt600 3aj - what tools
I have a XT600 3AJ back in the UK. I am currently in the US and want to buy tools for it -- I have none to begin with.

Any advice on which tools I will likely need the most would be appreciated.

Particularly, should I buy metric or imperial sizes?

Thank you.
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Old 24 Sep 2003
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Hi Scoobie

go METRIC. get a good socket set - not a cheap one - they last longer - the sizes are more accurate and you are less likely to round off nuts and bolts.

also get a good set of spanners - combination spanners - ring at one end open at the other. again - the cheaper they are the less likely they are to be slack on fittings.

same goes for allen keys!

find a GOOD tool shop - get you bits from them - they will work out cheaper in the long run and often have good deals on sets of tools.

I don't know what kind of things you will need for the 3AJ, in specifics but there aren't many specialist tools I need for my XTZ. If it's wheel bearings you are doing get a good impact socket to use as a driver to get them in. Getting them out is another story.

Hope this helps.

Tony.
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Old 25 Sep 2003
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Thank you for the advice Tony!
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Old 25 Sep 2003
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Buy 6-sided sockets, not 12-sided, even less likely to slip.

Re: wheel bearings - if you need to replace them & there's no "bearing lip" to use as a drift point, then try the following (assuming you have access to a MIG welder):

Cut & file a small piece of steel bar to fit in the middle of the bearing, does not have to be a tight fit. Weld the ends of the steel to the inside of the inner bearing race and use this "bridge" as a drift point. The heat from the weld is enough to loosen the bearing in the wheel. Drift bearing out from opposite side, remove spacer tube, turn wheel over & there should still be enough heat in the wheel to allow removal of the remaining bearing. If not, heat wheel with a gas torch.

The above also works when removing disc mounting bolts that are rounded off - by welding a nut to the end of a steel bar (for a socket) & welding the other end to the bolt head. You'll need to keep cutting the bolts off if more than one needs to be removed.

One other point - when buying replacement disc bolts, don't assume that aftermarket bolts are cheaper. In the UK, M&P bolts for Yamaha's are £5.00 each, genuine bolts are under £2.00.

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