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XT600 Engine rebuild questions (crank, bearings, valveseals etc) XT600 Engine rebuild questions (crank, bearings, valveseals etc)
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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  #31  
Old 27 Jan 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrider View Post
That's .002" less but still .0118" clearance (SAE since I'm used to it) , it'll be ok .




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Thanks. 10W40 fine with the above in mind?
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  #32  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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Yup .



.
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'86 XT600/3TB motor,,, '88 XT600, ,,'92 XT600e,,, '08 Husky TE510,,, '05 DRZ463,,, '95 KLX650 ,,,'96 KLX650
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  #33  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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I just found out that in a XT600Z service information it clearly states 0.25-0.75mm big-end clearance, while in the XT600 EAC 1990 service manual it states 0.35-0.65mm. I thought the 600 engine core (crank, piston etc.) was pretty much identical for all models. Does someone have any idea?
Last edited by Doubleyoupee; 28 Jan 2019 at 17:22.
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  #34  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrider View Post
That's .002" less but still .0118" clearance (SAE since I'm used to it) , it'll be ok .




.
+1, you should be fine
do a dry mount of the crank in cases, button them up and see if it turns freely to be sure
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  #35  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
+1, you should be fine
do a dry mount of the crank in cases, button them up and see if it turns freely to be sure
Wel unfortunately it's not.
I just found out the big-end pin is now touching the bearing:



My understanding is that the bearing should be placed all the way against the crankshaft, although there will be some clearance because of a small shoulder that prevents the inner race of the bearing from going any further. Correct?

Either way, it's now rubbing against the pin as you can see in the picture... so I brought it back to be adjusted.. if possible (i've already removed the timing gear).
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  #36  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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havent changed a left bearing in a while and too many other motors open to remeber, but a crank that i have here has a good 2.4 distance between pin and bearing
im afraid there should be a washer between bearing and crank, the parts list wil not show it because its one assy
no way a few tenths mistake would cancel a 2.4mm gap..
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XT600 Engine rebuild questions (crank, bearings, valveseals etc)-img_20190128_201835.jpg  

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  #37  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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had a look in better light, not sure it's a washer. it might be that the bearing should have no radius so it stops at the shoulder sharp. maybe you mounted a non original bearing that has a radius? then it would sit more inwards...
Last edited by turboguzzi; 28 Jan 2019 at 21:27.
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  #38  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
had a look in better light, not sure it's a washer. it might be that the bearing should have no radius so it stops at the shoulder sharp. maybe you mounted a non original bearing that has a radius? then it would sit more inwards...
I already removed the bearing and there is no washer. There is a small shoulder that the inner race of the bearing sits against. That's why there's a gap between the crank and bearing.
There's still a gap for me, but not at the pin. The pin touches the bearing directly. I think it's the original bearing (it's a Koyo).

Either way, it wasn't touching the bearing before. It's because the crank was pressed 0.6mm inwards, so the pin protrudes more and touches the bearing now.
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  #39  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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If service manual states 0.35-0.65mm i would for sure use it in the correct value and not hope its ok outside.. But what i find strange here is the shop you had to do this, they must have seen that the bearing touched?They maybe didnt have all parts?
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  #40  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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Originally Posted by xtrock View Post
If service manual states 0.35-0.65mm i would for sure use it in the correct value and not hope its ok outside.. But what i find strange here is the shop you had to do this, they must have seen that the bearing touched?They maybe didnt have all parts?
Well actually, the XT600Z 3AJ "service information" says 0.25-0.75mm. That's what confuses me. I've never seen that mentioned anywhere else.



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  #41  
Old 28 Jan 2019
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88. Crank 1
34K-W1141-00-00


93. Crank 1
1VJ-W1141-00-00


I dont know it they had some difference spec. Anyway the bearing is not possible to move now and use again, start all over and get the gap you had before dismantle.
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  #42  
Old 29 Jan 2019
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even if it's 0.6 off, with a 2.4mm measured gap between pin and bearing race they shouldnt touch... it might well be that what defines the bearing position is the gear wheel and you should press the last few mm using the gear wheel as a driver so it stops at the step in diameters in the shaft. what im triyng to say is in other words that the bearing should not go all the way till the shoulder.

was there a gap between the gear wheel and bearing before you took them off?
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  #43  
Old 29 Jan 2019
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Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
even if it's 0.6 off, with a 2.4mm measured gap between pin and bearing race they shouldnt touch... it might well be that what defines the bearing position is the gear wheel and you should press the last few mm using the gear wheel as a driver so it stops at the step in diameters in the shaft. what im triyng to say is in other words that the bearing should not go all the way till the shoulder.

was there a gap between the gear wheel and bearing before you took them off?
What are you basing this on? Where did you get 2.4mm from? There was definitely no 2.4mm gap before. More like 0.5-1mm.

I can move the bearing axially with two screwdrivers- it's very loose on the axle. I don't know what position the bearing could be other than all the way seated on the shoulder - otherwise it will just move anyway.

Before I took them off, there was no gap between the timing gear and bearing, and around 0.5-1mm beween crank and bearing:



You can see the shoulder here:



This was before. Now it's touching the pin every so slightly because it moved 0.6mm
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  #44  
Old 29 Jan 2019
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Ok i maybe missunderstood what you wrote, but when its pressed on i would think it couldnt be moved by hand.
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  #45  
Old 29 Jan 2019
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Originally Posted by xtrock View Post
Ok i maybe missunderstood what you wrote, but when its pressed on i would think it couldnt be moved by hand.
The timing gear is pressed on. The bearing I can simply tap all the way down using no effort, just some light taps. But as you can see on the last picture - it can't go any further because there's a tapered shoulder that hits the bearing's inner race. Unfortunately now, the big end pin hits the bearing first. Just.
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