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XTZ660 XTZ660
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Sean Howman, The Pamir highway in an unseasonably cold late October, Tajikistan

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Sean Howman,
The Pamir highway in an unseasonably
cold late October, Tajikistan



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  #1  
Old 1 Oct 2003
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XTZ660
Could somebody give me advise on checking a secondhand XTZ660. It is a 1992 model with 43000km on the clock. I'm planning an RTW, is the bike still suitable? What should I check and on what do I have to pay attention when I test drive it?

Where can I find a large tank?

Thank you for your help!

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  #2  
Old 1 Oct 2003
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Location: sydney australia
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i am also planning a a rtw trip on a 96 xtz.
they are a terrific bike with a very strong motor... it would be advisable to have the enginge rebuilt if it has 43000kms on the clock, so make sure you factor that into the cost when purchasing your bike, also suspension , clutch , regulator,etc... you may be better off buying a machine that costs alittle more but doesnt require as much work done. however, i have bought an older machine and am having it rebuit for the trip...just so i know its up for the journey.;
good luch...and enjoy.
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  #3  
Old 1 Oct 2003
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XTZ660 is the strongest bike there is. Make sure you mount a new version voltage regulator [with fins] and have the rear shockdamper rebuilt. For your pleasure buy progressive front springs and use 10W20 multigrade fork oil. That's all. With the standard tank you can do more than 450 kms. so who needs more?

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Fred, XTZ660, Holland.
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  #4  
Old 1 Oct 2003
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I'd give the bike a big thumbs up - owned a 96 for 3 years now and it great - I'd re-iterate about the regulator - the finned standard yamaha is a good cheap upgrade.

When you test ride don't expect to pull away with less than 2800rpm and expect to hit the rev-limiter at about 7200rpm.

but inbetween the power should be smooth across the range.

Check the inside of the front fairings for plastic welds - I know you can't remove them before you buy buy have a really good look at the tank brackets for the fairings - if they are bent or mangled at all then it's probably had a slide on its side.

Also look closely at the metal sub frame mounted off the front frame - it mounts the headlights and nose fairing/ clocks etc. Check the bottom 2 legs that stick out for any play or rust. again a good place to spot and damage incurred during a slide down the road.

Check both sets of indicators are the same (not just similar) for the same reason.

Hope this helps and enjoy it.

Tony.
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