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Yamaha XT 600 (start-up smoke) *video* Yamaha XT 600 (start-up smoke) *video*
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Alessio Corradini, on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, of two locals

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Alessio Corradini,
on the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia,
of two locals



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  #16  
Old 27 Apr 2016
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The above break in is pretty good but I would add that HEAT CYCLES are also very important in the first 200 miles of operation on a new motor or new parts.

Run bike as described above ... then park it 10 minutes, let cool.
Repeat, Repeat, Repeat ... you're done!

This is how both Honda and Suzuki have done it with 30 new press test bikes at
new model launch. A few heat cycles and straight onto the track where they spent the next two days at redline! No problems.
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  #17  
Old 28 Apr 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
most likely dirt in / bad check valve letting the cases fill with oil even after a few hours.
if anything else was suspect, there's no reason the engine would stop smoking after a while.

easy to check:
check your oil level after a long ride.
check again after an overnight, if level dropped considerably, then it's a bad check valve
What do you mean with "bad check valve" ?
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  #18  
Old 28 Apr 2016
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Any info regarding the heat cycles? My bike never got hot after a rebore and new piston...At leats no heat was transferred to the oil to show an oil temperatre above normal...?

Oeh yeah, most new bikes are just about redlined on a dyno before they even leave the factory... So theres the ring seal and and heat cycle for ya
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  #19  
Old 29 Apr 2016
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Heat cycles just let new parts expand (heat) and contract (cool), allowing parts to scuff each other and speed break in due to expansion and contraction.

I figure if Suzuki, Honda and Triumph use this technique on new bikes then it should be OK for a new bike or newly rebuilt bike. I still follow break in procedures after doing heat cycles, like never running at steady RPM and never lugging the motor. I also like to snap off throttle and coast down. All this is good for a new engine, valve gear, rings, et al.

PS: you are right, OEM's do rev them to test them, check oil pressure. I've even heard they do this with ONLY assembly oil ... crankcase empty of oil.
But I didn't see this myself ... so can't verify.
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  #20  
Old 29 Apr 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danimalu View Post
What do you mean with "bad check valve" ?
yo, lets not hijack this thread

study a bit your oil system from the manual. under the right side cover there is a check valve with a steel bal and spring that "should" prevent the tank draining oil to the motr when not working

open the right cover and youll see it
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  #21  
Old 30 Apr 2016
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Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
yo, lets not hijack this thread

study a bit your oil system from the manual. under the right side cover there is a check valve with a steel bal and spring that "should" prevent the tank draining oil to the motr when not working

open the right cover and youll see it

Aaa,and how i check if it's ok?
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  #22  
Old 30 Apr 2016
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the ball should move freely, no dirt trapped between ball and seat, sealing o-ring might be squashed and old-change it . dismantle it all, good clean in solvent, remount with fresh o-ring, be careful not to let any sealant into the valve. the o-ring doesnt need sealant to seal

but before you jump into this, do the very easy check i proposed you before the thread went into fresh-motor-run-in mode
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  #23  
Old 30 Apr 2016
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Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
the ball should move freely, no dirt trapped between ball and seat, sealing o-ring might be squashed and old-change it . dismantle it all, good clean in solvent, remount with fresh o-ring, be careful not to let any sealant into the valve. the o-ring doesnt need sealant to seal

but before you jump into this, do the very easy check i proposed you before the thread went into fresh-motor-run-in mode
Thank you!
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  #24  
Old 30 Apr 2016
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I saw your video on a better screen now . It's your valves seals . The way it took a few seconds after starting to start smoking , got bad , then slowly tapered away , that's the seals . Rings would smoke right away , then get worse as it warms up and have some smoke the entire time it is running . Your's quits after a minute or so right?

Too much oil would simply smoke till the oil is gone or force it out somewhere and drip on the ground . The check valve has nothing to do with it other than making it harder to check oil , even then if the valve was shot the scavenge pump will keep the motor from filling and you check the oil level in the tank as soon as you shut it off rather than waiting a couple minutes.
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  #25  
Old 30 Apr 2016
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JJ, seen the video too my bike smoked in similar fashion, fixed the check valve and problem was gone It could be seals like you are saying, but it MIGHT be the check valve too. checking the valve is so easy to do before tearing into the top end that it's really worth giving it a try before, don't you think? life taught me not to be so assertive about any on-line/remote diagnosis of engine problems, even with videos


dani, another super easy check you can do is drain the oil from the crankcase after an overnight stop and see measure how much drains down. tell us what you found
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  #26  
Old 30 Apr 2016
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I'll bow out , all yours ><

BTW , why have him drain the oil when he can just check the tank level right after he just ran it , and then check it after sitting overnight and see how much of a difference ? Much less work ? , it'll have to be empty to cause it to possibly smoke ,though neither of mine did when the check valves were shot , but both took 3 days to drain the tank empty , unless he forgot to install the valve completely.
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  #27  
Old 1 May 2016
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JJ, my bike did exactly what you described, after it was overfilled. It actually took a ride or two after overfilling it, before it startet to smoke.

As to the OP, the valve is around 10euro, so if you loose sleep over it, just change it. An easy way to check is to let the bike sit for a day or two, then loosen the oildrain-bolt in the frame. You actually dont need to take it completely out. If oil starts to seep, theres still oil in the frame, which means it isnt drained down into the engine, which again means the checkvalve is working. (or at least working to a point where all the frameoil, isnt drained into the motor in a day or two.)

If its bad, you should have a very hard time reading a correct oillevel when cold, but theese bikes seem like that even with the valve working.
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  #28  
Old 1 May 2016
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Use a oilstick from a car, checking the pipe down to drain screw in frame.
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  #29  
Old 1 May 2016
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tnxs JJ, actually that's exactly what i suggested in my very first reply

and agree with jens, they might as well drain oil slowly even with a good valve. i use both my supermoto and supermono XTs racers about once a month and I always have to drain the cases before a track session, ALL the oil usually drains down by then, it has become second nature by now.
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  #30  
Old 1 May 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboguzzi View Post
JJ, seen the video too my bike smoked in similar fashion, fixed the check valve and problem was gone It could be seals like you are saying, but it MIGHT be the check valve too. checking the valve is so easy to do before tearing into the top end that it's really worth giving it a try before, don't you think? life taught me not to be so assertive about any on-line/remote diagnosis of engine problems, even with videos


dani, another super easy check you can do is drain the oil from the crankcase after an overnight stop and see measure how much drains down. tell us what you found
OK! I will do that!
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