hi there bwm fans, im a tenere rider looking to purchase a 1986 GSPD with 86k on the clock, the bike is in good condition, the asking price is roughly 3000 euros , based in sydney ausralia, is this a reasonable price...thsnks for your help.

Hi Future boy
6000 AUD sounds steep, but if it is realy good thats what you seem to have to pay for one of these in Oz. Is it an original PD?
Has it gone around the block Kms wise? ie 186000kms. It is very likely. Does it have service books?
In 1984 they were AUD5500 new. Price jumped up in 86 with dollar devaluation.
You could get yourself a later model for less, or the basic G/S AUD2500 and put a PD tank on it. You can order them through BMW about AUD1500...cheaper than Acerbis.
An early R1100GS about AUD7500, basic Paralevers start at about AUD3500 but go right up to AUD9500 for the black and chrome ones with low kms.

You could also buy a new xt600e for AUD7500, it comes with warranty and zero kms!

Good Luck

now in Leipzig,Germany on an R80G/S PD 84

__________________
Close to Antarctica and a long way from reality

I've been following prices for the G/S and early PD's on the North American markets for a while now, and that seems to be about what they go for. In my opinion, the PD isn't worth the premium that some buyers want for what appears to be 'classic/ collectable' status - i.e. the signed tank. While the look and heritage are nice, most seem to agree that the Acerbis tanks are more practical (and half the price), and you can get yourself a good single seat on the open market, or have one made. Still, even regular G/S's in good condition seem to go for $3500USD and up. My preference in purchasing one used would be to look for the needed upgrades to brakes and suspension if you are going to pay a premium price for an old bike. Stock is nice if your goal is a vintage local ride, but will not cut it for serious usage of an off road nature.

thanks guys, now my head is really spinning , i went and had a good look at this bike (R80GS PD) and it seems to be very well looked after, i was thinking of riding this bike from london to india and now i wiil have to renew the suspension setup as we I be doing the journey two up(mono lever shock)....plus clutch...enginge etc,etc,$$$$$$$$$$$.....i think the bike is a little over priced so i better start haggling, any tips to look out for when buying an older bike ie.. the shaft drive , engine,shocks..and what are the main differences between the basic and pd models..thanks,phil.

[This message has been edited by futronix (edited 14 July 2003).]

[This message has been edited by futronix (edited 15 July 2003).]

The only differnce That I am aware of with the early PD is the larger tank and single seat/ rack set up, both of which are simple bolt on items to the stock G/S. Any used bike (come to think of it, any bike) intended for a long overland trip should have a thorough go over. A basic engine leak down test should be done. Clutch wear?splines lubed recently?. Transmission condition?
There is much written about the G/S GS models - look over Grant's description of setting his up. Lots of other info from searching the net.
The weaknesses I am most aware of are as follows:
charging system - known to fail, an upgrade (alternator, diod board) and spares are recommended by some.
Front brake - inadiquate for heavy loads on pavement - larger rotor/ caliper recommended.
Front forks/ triple clamp - thin and limited travel, better bracing at a minimum. have been known to break. Upgrading is a good idea,.
Rear subframe - will need bracing to carry heavy loads. Not that difficult to fix, but do something about it when you organize your rear carrier system or pay the conciquences down the road.
Rear shock - Must be replaced with a quality unit for serious travel.

Otherwise the rear Monolever drive arrangement is notably longer lasting then it's replacement: the Paralever fitted to the R100GS. Grant makes a note about the 3 lug rear wheel attachment being prone to failure if not maintained properly. The R80 is relatively low compression, and will tolerate low octane fuel better then its larger brothers and some later bikes. I like mine, and it is a good traveling bike. I miss the power of the R100 (and easy upgrade), but like the simplicity of the monolever.

Keep in mind that just about any bike choice will require modifications. In some ways, an older bike might be a cheaper starting point, certainly compaired to a new BMW.

hi
I have just rebulit mine After 150,00 miles and listened to people who have done serious miles (grant and chris)
things to do
1 rebuild gearbox at 60,000 miles
2 replace wire between dieode board and started motor with a thicker one and replace dieode board with thundercat dieode board from califoria
2 ecric dermant rebuilds driveshafts with grease nipples in e-mail Erdemant AT aol.com
3 replace rear shock with olins or wp one
then should be bullit proof
cheers nobby