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  #1  
Old 19 Jun 2009
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bmw r80 gs

hello there sorry to be repetitiv (i think) i think im useles at finding stuff!! could anyone tell me or post a link of a thread, where it says what preparations are REALLY needed on a bmw r80gs (pd,basic..etc) i heard of the kardan lasting about 50k's!!? im planing a trip of 2 years of mixed tarmac and loose ground!! im not a rider that bombs it around more of a comfi rider that like a bit of orfroad sometimes and likes it of the beaten track!!

beck to the main quiestion!!! haha what would i neeeeeed to do for the bike to not give me much probles?? thank you very much if you understood what im trying to say hahaha x x x
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Old 19 Jun 2009
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Fix so that the shaft is in oilbath - they kind of tend to last longer if lubricated...

Yes I know they're not supposed to have oil in them - so what?!
Older beemers had - those shafts lasted.

As for pure service things... depends on when they were performed last...

Concerning your plan 2 years in hard conditions... you will encounter "service situations"... -

I would have the gearbox overhauled - new bearings and low 1st and high 5th also installed.
Maybe it is about time to install new valves and valveguides? Then install valvestem caps at the same time - saves the valve-butts and rockerarms.

Check the finaldrive for play and wear. If suspicious - overhaul now.

Forks - new seals, and install gaitors to protect the forklegs and seals. Use Omega 699 automatic gearoil (5W/20) and Omega 917 seal improver => seals will last the trip less you damage the forks.

I'm a fan of oil-coolers. Install an oilcooler if you do not allready have it.

Check the alternator brushes - if worn; renew now.

Regreas the stearing bearings and swingarmbearings; Omega 77.

If you have conic roller bearings in the wheels - regreas with Omega 77.

Check the wire loome and fill all connections with grease to fight off water and moist that will cause electrical problems if it gets into the connections.
Change bad or worn wires now.

Air-filter - see other thread here. Foam-filer is a good option.

If you choose to use Omega 690 80W/90 GL7 you will not need to change the hypoid during these two years. You may however need to top the final drive and shaft a couple of times. This reducing the needed oil-serevice to engine oil changes. Omega 757 20W/50 will last the two years also, but I would recommend that you change at haft time (or before 20 000km).

Steelspun brakehoses, Spiegel or Goodridge, gives a bit better braking. use Omega 917 in the brakehose fluid - improves braking operation over time considerably.

Bring gas-wire, chocke wire and clutch wire with you - if you leave them at home, they will brake - if you bring them along, they wont brake -

Install fule-line filter - the filter inside the tank does not filter well enough.
I use: Biltema Sverige
Inexpensive, see through - easy to see when it is time to change.

Oh... clutch... never worn out a clutch on my R80. Friend of mine wears out his clutches at about 60 000km intervall on his R100-sidecar... so,... perhaps you should pull the clutch and measure the frictionplate?... Maybe a new is due?...

Probably forgotten a lot of things, but these that I have listed should at least be the main and most important service issuses.
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  #3  
Old 20 Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc lindberg View Post
Fix so that the shaft is in oilbath - they kind of tend to last longer if lubricated...

Yes I know they're not supposed to have oil in them - so what?!
Older beemers had - those shafts lasted.
That's an interesting suggestion. Never heard that one, but it sounds quite feasible. The drive shaft on my R80GS survived over 100k kms of tarmac & dirt roads in Europe, Africa and OZ. It had a little play, so I exchanged it upon returing to Germany, but I'm sure it would have lasted another 20 - 30k kms. You do find drive shafts with grease nipples and replaceable bearings for he R80 & R100GS. That is what I have fitted now.

The tip regarding the gearbox is important. If it is overhauled, check whether the main bearing is secured with a circlip. Mine wasn't, and the I had to rework the gearbox at only 18k kms While the gearbox was repaired, I decided to fit a ceramic clutch. Came in useful in the OZ desert sand...

My alternator packed in at 65k kms, the starter at 80k kms. The rear shockabsorber should be exchanged for a Oehlins, WP or Wilbers - any rebuildable type - if it is still the standard BMW shock.
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Old 20 Jun 2009
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Sorry, I forgot to mention this web site: Joergs R80GS Page Very useful.
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Old 20 Jun 2009
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There is a producer of even better shocks than Öhlins:

Engans Racing Servicve
Boviksv. 4, 818 43 FORSBACKA
Tel: +46-(0)26-300 34
Fax: +46-(0)26-24 85 34
Engans Racing service - Eniro=

ENGANS RACING SERVICE - Infodirekt.se

Businesses in the village of Forsbacka:
Foretag
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Old 23 Jun 2009
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Check: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...long-tour-7818
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  #7  
Old 24 Jul 2009
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longer shaft life

I have found on my R80 GS that fitting a shorter shock absorber from an R100R has extended the drive shaft life from about 80,000 km to 160,000 km,
It means that the shaft is straighter when running and has less travel putting less load on the universal joint, it also helps if your legs are a little short
Mark
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