This is a must have for any bike, especially a thumper. You don't need crashbars like on a twin or triple. Note that you'll need bar risers for this kind of barkbusters, more about that later.

The forks on the Dakar/Sertao are pretty old and simple tech, so it's a good way to improve them without breaking the piggy bank. I've heard that Racetech Emulators are a must but haven't tried them myself.

Lighter and more robust than a standard one (you don't have a kick start to save your bacon on these bikes and the EFI is not firing if the voltage is too low). It doesn't puke all it's acid everywhere when (not if) the bike is lying on it's side too.

There are alternatives to Touratech of course, but you get the idea. Those bikes don't have so much ground clearance so at least protect the bottom accordingly.

Mine are home-made with chicken fence, it's working great, protecting the radiator from small pebbles and medium sized rocks that could fly and damage it

This protects your forks tubes and simmers from all the dirt you'll encounter during your trip.

This is a must have, the stock pegs are absolutely useless as soon as you start standing up offroad. There are a lot of possibilities, from Touratech complete rally kit like I have to Pivot or home-made pegs. The Touratech folding gear lever still bends in crashes but can be bended back if necessary (mine is pretty much beaten up now but still works perfectly).

Again, a must have to stand up, but still useful when sitting (straghtens my back). Chose either 30 mm (a bit more than 1") to 50 mm (about 2"). Note that you'll need a new brake line for any risers above 30 mm.

You'll thank it when your chain snaps and hits it full speed. It will save your engine case.

Mine are from AFAM, but DID are fine too. Keep your old chain and sprockets as spares. Carry one or two spare links just in case (with the tool to close them if you don't have a clip one).

This saves a lot of weight, gets rid of the cat allowing you to put bad quality fuel and gives you space to put a tool tube or a fuel can in place of the RHS silencer. Mine is a Scorpion Oval but any single sided exhaust will do (Arrow, Leo, GPR, Staintune etc.)

Avoid Öhlins which are made for racing. Buy an Hyperpro (or Touratech one as they are made by them), Wilbers or WP one. Avoid the hydraulic preload adjustement as they are impossible to repair on the side of a Third-World road and buy one with a mechanical preload adjuster.