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24 Aug 2010
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GS1100 Issues - Should I buy one?
Hi all,
I'm looking to buy a GS1100 and have read up about a few gearbox related issues.
I believe that around 1996-1998 there were problems with a M97 gearbox and that buying second hand you need to find out the type of gearbox and if there are any gear related issues as this could lead to major problems.
I also read that a new transmission/gearbox can cost as much as buying a new bike.
Can someone straighten out the facts for me as I'm a little confused...What year would be the safest bike to go for, in terms of gearbox problems? A pre-'96, with the old gearbox or a post-'96 with no problems?
I want to buy an 1100 to travel up to Scotland (from London) to see my family initially and, depending on how it goes, the rest of the world.
I looked at a 650 but the insurance wasn't all that different and I think the GS would feel more solid when riding.
Thanks
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24 Aug 2010
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24 Aug 2010
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thanks, pretty useful page that!
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24 Aug 2010
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I'm also a fan of the 1100's..
Also, I hear the clutch lives are about 30-40k !! It can be a very expensive job (just in parts) if it's approaching or not been done.
There are kits you can buy and a competent home mechanic should be able to do it. Something to look out for !
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24 Aug 2010
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hi, yes I like the 1100's as they're a little cheaper and a bit more rugged. I'm looking at one on ebay. Let me know your thoughts or what I might have to look out for/ask if I can get to see it this weekend.
1997 BMW R1100 GS YELLOW on eBay (end time 25-Aug-10 21:27:32 BST)
I read it was about 70k that these clutches could start to be problematic but it may just be down to the individual rider and bike.
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24 Aug 2010
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The clutch on the 1100 should last more then 100kkm. It can be measured if you remove the starter.
Some of the earlier bikes had problems with the crank-seal and drowned the clutch in oil.
The price of a new friction disk is around 200€.
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24 Aug 2010
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I have a 97 model, great bikes, the gearboxes got better after 97, but earlier gearboxes can be sorted to be as good, they are pretty easy to work on and there are plenty of used parts available for them, the clutch in mine lasted 80 K, a new clutch is around £200 if you do it yourself, £400 if you want me to do it for you, lots of them around with interstellar mileages, one American chap is up to over 400,000, mine is over 110,000 and runs and rides beautifully, though it does look travel worn, get over to UKGSer for more information.
Stewart
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24 Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBaba
The clutch on the 1100 should last more then 100kkm. It can be measured if you remove the starter.
Some of the earlier bikes had problems with the crank-seal and drowned the clutch in oil.
The price of a new friction disk is around 200€ (#6).
[url=http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0404&mospid=51667&btnr=21_0076& hg=21&fg=05]RealOEM.com
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I was talking miles, not KM... I've heard of a few going as little as 30,000 Miles. I'm not sure of the reason behind it.
I was looking to buy one a while ago. Still might next year.
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25 Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pip the Scotsman
Hi all,
I'm looking to buy a GS1100 and have read up about a few gearbox related issues.
I also read that a new transmission/gearbox can cost as much as buying a new bike.
Can someone straighten out the facts for me as I'm a little confused...What year would be the safest bike to go for, in terms of gearbox problems?
Thanks
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As with all stuff one buys - one can get a good sample or a "monday object...".
I do not have experience with the 4-valve gearboxes, but I have seen these issues:
* these bikes are -not- dirtbikes... the bolts holding the gearbox to the engine will ripp out the threads if one use thies bikes as dirtbikes (i.e. jumps).
* wheelies may damage the gearselector "drum"... causing deep groves in the aluminum roll which will cause bad, heavy, tiresome gearshifting; a complete gearbox overhaul will be required...
* the seals in the gearbox for the rod(?) that controls the clutch may leak causing a well lubricated clutchplate; need to be modified by using the same sealing technique that the pre 1981 (R75-R90 mainly) gearboxes had.
As for clutch life...
My clutches have lasted X-miles... 100 000km? 50 000km? 150 000km? I do not know - worked too much on my /7 bikes to know.
Friend of mine needs to change his /7 clutches at about 60 000km.
On my VW Type 4 (>2300kg) - the clutch was changed at about 360 000km. The van have just passed 490 000km. There is an indication that the thickness of the clutch is getting thinner...
None of my friends riding 4-valves have change their clutchplates; 50 - 150 000km.
Point:
* The life of a clutchplate depends on how the vehicle is used. Lots of clutch-drag; poor gearshifting, traffic-jam, etc will were heavilly on the clutch.
The clutch is the least of expensive issues that one may encounted with these German Cobras ( http://img.directindustry.com/images...ns-P336602.jpg )... The fuel injection is a far more common problem... The hallsensors seems to be an issue with all BMW boxer bikes... not to mention the dry-running shafts and u-joints...
When you buy a secondhand vehicle, expect that there will be "hidden" issues... You may get a positive surprice (no problems) or find that even with your worst expectations it turns out to be in even worse condition...
So it is hard to advice.
You may get lucky, or your workshop may get swamped with work...
Drive Safely,
Albert
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25 Aug 2010
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Thanks for replying all.
I found this if it's any help to anyone
BMW R1100 5-speed transmissions
It goes into explain why there are issues. Seems like the R1100 April 96 onwards had this M97 transmission and could develop this problem at high mileage. having said that Albert has a point, when you buy second hand you could be buying more problems than you know.
That doesn't mean you shouldn't do your homework...they're selling for a reason.
thanks again and safe riding.
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25 Aug 2010
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My '99 R1100 clutch lasted 252000 km , and could have gone longer. I had it replaced last year when there was a problem with what was thought to be the clutch , but it was actually the plastic and metal piston at the aft end of the push rod .The piston was collapsing giving erratic clutch behaviour- one minute way too much free play at the handle , the next shift way too tight.This push converter can be changed out without removing the tranny. However since it was in the shop and considering its km I hade the clutch replaced at the same time . In afterthought, I should not have done so, but the $$$$$ are gone now. Now the tranny is in need of repair as a shim or something similar has broken up. Would that they had found that out last year while they had the tranny on the bench!
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