Hi all, Just got my 1989 100GS and about to start prepping it for RTW trip.
Please can anybody guide me as to what mods i need to make, what parts i must re-new before i leave. It has been looked after but done 50k miles.

This is just a list of things that i know i need help with,

Change the standard handle bars to narrower 790ish possibly Renthal, can i keep the BMW switch gear! Can i fit oxford heated grips!

Uprate the front brake, what calliper do i need etc!

Do i need to get the whole bike re-wired or just the charging system!

My bikes only got a nose fairing with no screen, can i get an after market set up like on the Dakar!

What parts should i take on the trip.

All advise would be helpfull.

Please feel free to email me at twowheels03@msn.com

Thanks Paul

You can start with this link:

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...long-tour-7818


There are a lot of different opinions on this one. Personally I don’t think another caliper is worth the cost, consider overhauling the old one (and the masterpump). If you want better brakes go for a setup with bigger (or dual) disk.

If the wiring is okay it’s not necessary to modify it but make sure that all cables concerning charging is okay and the contacts are clean. Change brushes (if necessary) and it might be smart to carry an extra rotor.

I have no idea… Why narrower?


It’s possible but you will need various parts and a PD-tank, it will add a lot of weight. Personally I would have used HPN’s fairing and tank.

It depends on your route…
Airfilter(s)
Oilfilter(s)
Spark plug
Tubes
Clutch wire
Throttle wire(s)
Brake lever
Clutch lever
Rotor
Silicon
Tape
Electrical wires
Fuses

It’s possible to store most of the items inside the frame (under the tank) and attach the wires to the bike.

Considering the milage and hoving no idea what kind of maintinence the previous owner preformed, i would seriously consider having the driveshaft replaced with a re-built one with greasable u-joints. Mines got about 100k. miles on it now. Same with the transmition, maybe it's due for a new set of bearings (do the cir-clip thingy while your at it!) You may consider a lower first gear while the box is open, depends if you plan to get off the beaten path a lot, it really helps maneuver the beast around. Huge amounts if info on the HUBB about brakes, you'll have to search or i'll be repeating myself . If you keep the stock charging system, remove the rubber mounts on the diode board and get solid ones. Definately carry a spare rotor. Same with cables, they're light and easy to pack. Put on some real barkbusters from Acerbis, the ones with the aluminum bar molded into the plastic, it'll save your levers and M.Cylinder. The stock bars are fine, but you can buy kits to install tapered bars...really not necesary though. I had a REALLY hard time finding a comfy set for my bike and actually miss the original bend, it was the most comfy. Make sure your comfortable with the bike before you leave, and you know how to maintain it. get rid of the paper filter and get a UNI FILTER, they're washable. Use soap and water and let it dry. Don't forget to oil it! And remember, the red light on the dash is susposed to come on at idle . See link:
http://web.mac.com/adventman/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html

Thanks loads guys for some good solid info, I will put it to good use.
Regards Paul

After well over 100,000 k's on my 1993 R80GS a few thoughts from my side:

The circlip should be ok. What Mr. Ron is thinking about is that for 8 months in 1993 the circlip was omitted and instead the bearing was additionally glued in. Big crap - mine got unstuck at 18 thou resulting in a major gearbox balls-up. What makes sense is to check the 5 main bearings in the gearbox and replace them if necessary. And while you're at it, exchange the cog for the first gear against a shorter and the 5th against a longer ratio. AND while busy with the gearbox get rid of the standard clutch and replace it with a ceramic. Lasts for the rest of the lifecycle of the bike, even if you really grind it in sand and muck.

Exchange the standard front springs against White Power progressive springs.

Exchange the rear shock against either Oehlins, White Power or Wilbers if it isn't done yet. They can be rebuilt and last muuuuch longer than the standard Beemer shock. And perform much better.

The standard brakes are sufficient for dirt roads, otherwise careful riding... The rear brake can be fitted with softer linings which improves the drum brake considerably. The front disc could be exchanged against 320mm discs from HE (Supermoto Supermotard Funbikes Monobikes Felgen-einspeichen Speichenraeder Bremsscheiben HE-Motorradtechnik Freilassing Motorradfelgen) unfortunately only in German. But I found them to be adequate.

I rather like the standard handlebars, but lifted them by 2.5cm. Try Touratech.

Personally I'd stick to the fairings you've got. The newer fairings with the higher windscreen produces more turbulence around the helmet causing more noise. I finally sawed off my screen so it's even shorter than the older fairing.

I fitted the Acerbis/HPN tank and wouldn't like to miss it. Check the web - there are always second hands for sale.

Check the driveshaft, but if there is no play, just carry on. I've still got my first and it is still good. Mind you, I don't try to dice anybody, but I did lots of dirtroads.

Take a rotor along and don't forget the special screw to remove it. Take a spare diode board and regulator along.

My two-pence worth.
Hans

__________________
Only when we pause to wonder
do we go beyond the limits of our little lives.
(Rod McKuen)

Sorry, what I forgot to mention. Second thoughts ;-)

Scrap the standard bashplate and take a Dakar plate. The standard palte was probably more for decoration porposes and cannot take any beating.

Get rid of the pannier rack ant get a Touratech or try your own creation. The standard rack is too weak for bad roads whith luggage.

If you intend to cross many a deep river, think about HPN fittings for the breather of final drive and gearbox. The HPN goodies are fitted with a tube going into the airbox, so no water can dilute the oil.

Depending on how tall you are you might think of lower footpegs. Try Touratech. Additionally you could redo your seat to raise your seating position. Makes sense for people over 180cm.

I fitted a second sparkplug per cylinder, but that isn't really necessary. The engine runs smoother, but what I found much more important was to balance conrods & pistons. This made a hell of a difference.

That should do.

__________________
Only when we pause to wonder
do we go beyond the limits of our little lives.
(Rod McKuen)

I'm quite sure the circlip is missing on the output shaft on your bike. I had one installed on my '89 - the circlip groove had to be cut. While you are in there, the lower first gear is a good idea. You HAVE to get this done if it is not already. Catastrophic failure if you don't.

For bashplates, the Touratech one is a bit bigger and stronger than the Dakar.

Check out Motorrad Elektrik - #1 Source for your BMW Motorcycle Electrical Needs for over a Decade! (256)442-8886 Rick is a sponsor of this site and everything he sells is good stuff. I got a high output voltage regulator and a Panasonic gel battery from him four years ago, rode around the world and the same battery is still in there and working great.

There is lots of info. on your brake options in the BMW tech section. I think Motobins will sell you a K-100 calper and mounting bracket that is supposed to work well.

Upgrade the diode board and mounts and carry a spare (I hard mounted a Thunderchild diode board and it still burned out on me- alone in the desert in Sudan but I had the stock one as a spare)

I agree about the shocks. Front and rear have to go.