I am currently in the process of building a R80 G/S adventure travel machine. the current state is: stock (40,000 km on bike), striped to frame, cylinder barrels and heads removed, Trany in pieces. I would appreciate any advise anyone could offer as to improving performance, handling, and reliability for long distance travel in rough conditions. Also, does anyone know where I could source the larger "PD" tank that was sold with some of these bikes (or a suitable other brand)? I am not in a rush, but cost is a consideration.

Hi

I'm very happy with my 43L Acerbis tank, there's a choice of paintable nylon or couloured plastic. You can get them from any Touratech distributor or HPN, price was round about 1100DM if memory serves.

Other stuff that I've done on my GS are improved fork internals, WP shock, motoelekt solid diode board mounts, lowered foot rests, police spec. high output regulator. Best mod though is a bracket from,I think, Schneider, that stops the side stand flipping up.

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Sean

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Sean

Hi
Like Sean I also have the big Acerbis tank (tho now for sale). This can get a bit heavy when full, but remember the weight is very low down, unlike the BMW PD tank. Also, you don't have to fill it to the top each time. 35 litres low down is better than 35 litres high up. Also have the WP shock like Sean. This has withstood some serious bashing on dirt roads and is recommended. 1 inch handlebar risers make it easier to ride the bike standing up, as do CCM footrests. Finally, I have the Touratech sidestand which is stronger and better placed than the original.

hi timo
Try the airheads website there is a great tip on wiring www.airheads.org/contrib/wireupgrade.html

G'day Timo,

I have an '81 R80G/S.

After my first trip (Melbourne to top of Cape York, about 800km corrugations, creek crossings, etc), I *hated* the bike.
However, after much work, I improved it, and spent 18 months travelling with wench on the back around Australia.

I now *love* it.

My improvements:
* throw away the stock forks.
I fitted Yamaha TT600 forks, requiring a custom steering spindle.
The stock forks are too flimsy, and don't offer enough travel.
* Make the final drive breathe.
Otherwise, first bit of water, and voila! it's full of H2O. Replace the top breather on the drive with a tube connector, and run a rubber tube up into the air box (with a loop above, to stop any diff oil running into the air box).
You should probably do the same with gearbox, which loves sucking water.
* Re-route the engine breather.
Normally runs into the air box, and spews oil therein. Just run it *through* the air box, out to the ground.
* Fix the million & 1 electrical problems.
eg. rewire the alternator to start charging at lower RPMs.
& replacing the wires that broke going to the instrument / switch up front.
* Replace the gear & chain-driven throttle mechanism.
ie. the one on the bars.
If run for some time with a dragging cable, the gears can wear out, resulting in little, then no, pulling on the cars.
I rode from the top of Cape York back to Melbourne (4000km, odd), having to pull on the cable by hand. I couldn't get the right parts at the time.
I replaced it with a "conventional" cable pull off an old Suzuki dirt bike I had.

The main thing is to remember that you're on a bloody big lump, which *will* go most places, but needs some respect.

Cheers - Gavin.