In addition to riding bikes, I enjoy certain outdoor activities like hiking and climbing. The outdoor gear market is booming, and clothing technology seems to move at lightning pace, which each new season offering gear that is lighter, warmer, more breathable, and more durable (or at least, that is what the advertisers are trying to convince you, but that is a discussion for another time).

WHY SHOULD I CARE ABOUT HOW SOME HIPPIES DRESS?
Because with high altitude activities, weight and function are key, and climbers don’t take anything that they don’t need (sound familiar, HUBBers?) as extra weight and poor performing gear can literally be the difference between life and death. As a result, a general practice has evolved for how to regulate body temperature in a variety of conditions. This is directly relevant to adventure riding, where conditions can vary significantly yet the rider must limit his or her quiver of gear to what can fit in a few small bags. Moto companies have gotten more advanced with their product lines, but I still find the moto industry well behind the outdoor gear industry in terms of technology use and general know how.

THREE LAYER SYSTEM
What is commonly taught to people new to mountaineering and found in a variety of introductory literature is the three layer system. Each layer has a purpose and together act in concert, meaning that if done properly, the climber will always be able to adjust to conditions without needing to carry a full arsenal of clothes. REI has a nice write up on layering here:

How to Layer Clothes - REI Expert Advice

Below I will summarize the basics and apply them towards motorcycling. The three layers are: i) a base layer, ii) an insulation layer, iii) a shell layer.

THE BASE LAYER
The base layer is the layer that touches your skin, basically your shirt or long johns. Base layers are meant to provide some warmth, but primarily they are intended to help wick sweat away from your body*. They are made of either wool or some synthetic material (polyester is common) that attracts moisture from your body and helps it evaporate quickly. Wool products use a weight score to indicate warmth: 150, 200, 250 are common.

*At high altitude, you have the dangerous combo of high activity (body heat, sweat) with cool temperatures and strong winds (quick cooling). If sweat stays on your body, it acts as a refrigerator and can cause hypothermia in the worst case. Thus, it is essential that your sweat not build up on your shirt. This is why cotton is called "the death fabric" in climbing, because it absorbs sweat, does not evaporate it, and loses any warming properties when wet---basically creating a cold water bath around your skin. This is less a concern for motorcycling, where conditions aren’t so dire. Still, cotton should be avoided if possible.

Here is a short video on merino wool. The guy’s voice is annoying, but the summary is good and explains why merino is effective even in warm weather:




THE INSULATION LAYER
The next layer is intended to trap heat. Traditionally, two materials served this purpose: fleece and down. Down was always lighter, warmer, and packed smaller. On the other hand, fleece had the advantage that is does not lose its warming properties when wet, whereas down was useless when wet. So people climbing in cold dry climates would prefer down, while those in wetter climates would favor fleece. The insulation layer uses convection to maintain warmth, so a key part of this layer is the fit, as any holes or looseness will be an opportunity for heat to escape. That’s not to say a down or fleece jacket must be snug and tight, only that the exit points---the wrist cuffs, the waste---should either be snug or have a drawstring that allows them to be cinched tight.

Textile technology has advanced significantly in the past decade-or-so, and now down is usually treated to resist water and retain some warming properties, while outer fabrics are much more water resistant to prevent water reaching the down. Additionally, there are synthetic materials that mimic down but are less affected by water. Thus, the current crop of down products are much more versatile and can be used in much wetter conditions than those in the past. Still, some people like fleece, which is less bulky that in the past. PolarTec is the current leading edge of fleece technology. More and more there are options that mix synthetics, down, and fleece, where each serves a purpose in a certain part of the fabric.

THE SHELL LAYER
On top of the other two layers is the shell layer. Its sole purpose is to protect from the environment, such as wind and rain, but also the effects of snagging and scraping against tree branches, rocks, etc. Down jackets tend to be made of thin material to aid in their lightness and packability, and as a result they tear easily when exposed to rough environments. The shell layer protects them from that.

Shells can either be soft shell or hard shell. Soft are water and wind resistant but breathable. Hard shells are water- and windproof but do not breath. For all the marketing that says Gortex (and imitation products) is both waterproof and breathable, anyone that has spent more than 2 minutes in un-vented Gortex attire doing steady activity will confirm that whatever breathability it has is not enough. No climber likes being in Gortex any longer than they have to. It is hot. As a result, they often bring both a soft and a hard shell when climbing. The soft shell serves the shell purpose of protecting from environment until it starts to downpour, then it is swapped for Gortex.

A FEW LOOSE ENDS
The above was a quick summary. Some additional notes are worthwhile for further clarity:

- The system does not need to be followed in a 1-2-3 sequence. If you are cold but the outside conditions don’t warrant protection, you can put on the insulation layer and leave your shell in your backpack. Conversely, if it rains but it’s not that cold, you can just put your shell over your base layer. By mixing and matching, you can create comfort in a wider range of conditions and situations.

- Personal preference is a key factor. People run naturally hotter/cooler than others, so that should be taken into account when deciding which weight base layer to purchase. Also, different combinations can be used, where one person may go with a light base layer, they might opt for a shell that has a fleece lining, which will add more warmth to make up for the light base. Conversely, someone might use very heavy base layer to allow them to go with lighter and more packable insulation and shell layers. The trick is to try things out and see what works for you.

- Continuing on the prior bullet, testing gear is key. Try it under different conditions and in different combinations. Ultimately, every experienced climber settles on a few choice items that they know exactly how to apply to get the comfort level they are seeking under the prevailing conditions. Likewise, an experienced rider should narrow in on a few key pieces of gear over time.

- The system is really designed to be three layers. If you find you are regularly adding another layer for warmth, they you should just increase the warmth level (i.e. buy a warmer version) of one of your pieces rather than adding a whole new layer, which gets bulky and restricts movement, while requiring more space for packing.

3 LAYERS APPLIED TO MOTORCYCLING
Since the first man on two wheels ever sought to ride outside his climate region, riders have been on a quest for “the perfect jacket”. Something that is both warm and cool, that is tough enough to survive get-offs but also is flexible and light. None of this is possible in one jacket, but we continue to chase the dream. With the proper layering system, however, a rider can significantly stretch the range of climates his or her gear will accommodate.

In motorcycle terms, you jacket is effectively the shell layer. The fit of your motorcycle jacket will be important, as it needs enough space to wear the base and insulation layer without being restrictive. If you are shopping for these layers, it would be worth bringing your motorcycle jacket shopping, so you can try layers on under it to see how bulky the whole outfit gets.

COST
Assuming you have a motorcycle jacket, for ~$200USD more you can get a full system. But, as with anything, there are more expensive and nuanced options that allow you to spend a lot more.

Baselayers
Smartwool and Ice Breakers are my two favorite brands, and run about $80/ea for tops and bottoms. Other brands (Ibex, Patagonia, Sherpa, Ex-Officio) are breaking into the market and so alternatives are available in the $50-60 range. The good thing is that this is not a cutting edge technology, so last year’s merino wool is just as good as this year’s, allowing you to grab clearance items at substantial discounts.

Side note: some brands offer hooded base layer options. I haven’t tried one (though I am currently shopping for one), but think the tight base layer hood under a helmet could be a great cold morning feature than you can remove as the day goes on. Here is one such version:



Insulation
Pretty much every apparel company offers a down jacket now, so options are endless. Things to look for are down rating (higher is better) and fill weight (the amount of the particular down used in the jacket). Less fill with better quality down may offer the same warming properties of more fill with poor quality, but will allow the garment to be lighter (and will cost more). Uniqlo has a $70 ultralight jacket that is very popular. It is 700 down. Mountain Hardwear offers the lightest down jacket on the market, called The Ghost Whisper, that is only 7oz and uses 800 fill. You pay for it, though, at $320. In between these two, there are plenty of options.

Note that some down jackets have double zippers that are meant to accommodate climbing harnesses. This feature is useful for riding, as it allows you to unzip the bottom of your jacket a little so that it doesn’t bunch up when leaning forward (KLIM jackets have a double zipper for this very purpose). Another nice feature often found on fleece layers is an extended sleeve with a thumb hole, allowing the sleeve to extend under your gloves. This creates a seamless level of skin protection from the wind, which we all know is tenacious at finding ways into your jacket on the coldest of days.

Shell
This is your motorcycle jacket, so likely you already have one (or many). The decision here is whether to go with hard shell (something with Gortex) or soft shell. A soft shell would require some additioknal kind of rain gear like Frogg Toggs or the like. In this case, you might consider going with a lighter insulation layer in order to save money and packing space, as the rain shell can be used in cold conditions for added warmth. Just be prepared for that muggy feeling you get from a lack of breathability.

CONCLUSION
If used properly, a good base layer and insulation layer should be enough to supplement the limits of your jacket. The more you use it, and try different versions (share with fellow riders if you can), the more refined your system. In the end, this should allow you to limit the amount of gear you pack while also improving the comfortability of riding.

Differing opinions and questions welcome. Fire away!

Nice, and I can see where you are coming from.

In the early part of your writing, your reference to hyperthermia should read hypothermia - a typo of course, but an important difference in the context of that sentence.

I can fully identify with one of your final points, viz the warm, fuzzy feeling of donning a final rain "deflecting" layer - I guess we all know that feeling of an increased extra layer against the rain!
In effect, we can be warm and dry as the optimum condition but we can also put up with "warm and wet" or "dry and cold".

You haven't touched on the issue of also wearing the protective layer that deals with "offs" of course.

__________________
Dave

^ Fixed the typo. Thanks.


As for "offs", that was kind of out of the ambit of my topic. I personally am an AGATT guy, but there are many that prefer comfort to protection at times. I'm sure the issue has been well debated on this site---it certainly has on other moto forums I've been on. The key is whatever level of protection you like, hopefully my write-up gives you some ideas for how to stretch the use of your jacket.

All good info But motorcycling is quite a different activity to hiking, climbing, cross country skiing.

Manufacturers (like REI) assume users are active, doing physical exertion. Fabrics like Gore-Tex great when your working hard getting up a trail or cross country skiing across Sea ice. Other fabrics like Capilene and others are also amazing, along with the latest thin Merino Wool jerseys and such. Love it.

Many don't know Gore-Tex's "breathability" won't help in HEAT ... but is great in cold. Was specifically designed for exertion by users for Winter use. I tested very early Gore-Tex products in Antarctica in the 70's (USARP) we got a full tech rundown from THE MAN himself. It was not great for us because we got bird shit, oil and grease all over it and it no longer was waterproof!
Gore-Tex fabric must be clean to work! (otherwise was great!) I saved a set for myself for our days off cross country skiing. Worked great until you fell in a Seal breath hole in the Ice (which I actually did ).

Back to Motorcycles:
On a bike you mostly just sit there freezing in wind blast ... (unless doing technical off road work). Mountain climbers sweat like rapists, bike riders sit and freeze. What's the wind chill factor at 70 mph?

But as you suggest, layering correctly is important on a motorcycle too. But you left out a MAJOR important piece of the gear puzzle that's been in the mix since the early 70's: Electrically heated gear.

Early elec. products were of limited value (I know, I was there). Low output, inefficient. Even today you need a bike with a fairly robust charging system to get the most out of Elec. gear. But even my feeble DR650 with it's mere 200 Watt output does enough to save my life wearing my Gerbing elec. jacket liner.

But once again ... that layering thing comes up. Few riders know or understand how to layer when using an electric jacket liner. Ask Gerbing. (I did)

They say:
Jacket should not be too loose fitting. (snug) Jacket should be 2nd item ... worn on top of base layer. Anything else should go OVER elec. Jacket liner. This puts the elec. liner close to your skin and the over layers help seal in the heat.
IT WORKS!

I estimate my Gerbing is worth about 3 Merino wool sweaters or two down Parkas (thin ones) Less bulk, more heat!

But FAR more riders ride in HEAT than COLD. And heat is a bigger challenge than cold is, IMO. I've seen more than one set of ADV riders turn tail and run for home... ended their trip because they could not handle the heat.

Of course they wore gear for a true EU Winter in Cent. America. They were par boiled. Lots of tricks for hot weather riding and lots of good info on that too. But it's Winter ... so I guess we should stick with that ... for now. what's that? It's 90F in Panama now?

Totally agree on the activity. Sitting on a motorcycle is more like open cockpit aircraft than mountain climbing, there is little warming activity unless you stop to have a stretch.

Heated clothing however I find too unreliable to bet anything more serious than comfort on. I want food and insulation sufficient to survive a breakdown.

The biggest design flaw with motorcycle clothing is the short bomber jacket designs. Race fashion as usual, but the gap at the waist needs sealing. I wear a one piece flying suit under the armoured and waterproof layers.

Andy

I also had in mind open cockpit flying - not so much of it around nowadays, but a silk scarf would still work well.
I have thought about using my silk sleeping bag liner as a combined neck scarf and "body wrap" across my chest, especially on one particular occasion of heavy rain, thick mist and near zero viz in the Alps, in July!

The shortie jackets are a pain, but there does seem to be a decent selection of longer styled jackets in this "adventure" market of today.
Personally, I often wear a kidney belt for this very reason, it covers the potential gap very efficiently and it is just one more layer around that area which is very "comforting".
They are not expensive either.

The USA manufactured AeroStitch all-in-one riding suit is an interesting variant for the issue of sealing the gap.

__________________
Dave

3/4 riding jackets have been around in force since at least mid to late 1980's.
Very common here in USA and in UK.

Silk is wonderful ... underused and underrated by riders. I love my Silk glove liners and Silk sock liners under my Smart Wool socks. I've not found a Silk Sleeping bag liner but it would be great!

Scarves are good, very romantic, but I prefer a really good wind stopper Balaclava. One that is all encompassing and tucks into top of jacket collar. Very effective.

In the Antarctic we were taught to keep head and neck warm as so much heat loss happens there.

I love this one: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/silk-hik...d_8329035.html

I prefer a fleece buff, stuffed into the jacket collar and a larger goretex buff on top that goes over the jacket collar so that water won't run into the jacket. Stadler has a nice one, TouraTrinkets does one as well but I think it only fits on their own Companero jackets.

__________________
Belgium to Nordkapp via Iran | Discover Overland | Destination World

I bought a moto-specific buff (Rev'it I think, but not certain) and I hated it. didn't keep my neck warm, leaked air, and was uncomfortable in general.

So on one cold day I resorted to using just a regular wool scarf, which I wrap around my neck a few times and then tuck into my jacket. I was surprised at how well it worked at both blocking wind and keeping me warm. Sometimes, old and simple trumps new and engineered.

Regarding the hyper variety, the thread linked below contains a salutary message.
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...haustion-64722

__________________
Dave