Before you start this trip – think twice.
Why do: magnificent views
Why don’t: difficulty, length, security and weather
Crossing the Copper Canyon was part of my longer trip which started in Prudhoe Bay(AK) in June and ended in Cancun in July this year. The only map you can find with any path through the CC is OpenStreetMap. In theory the are two options to cross Rio El Fuerte: ferry or bridge. Based on info I got from the local people, the ferry doesn’t operate anymore. The bridge is narrow and old but OK.
The starting point could be El Creel and the first civilization after the CC is small city Choix, the total distance is about 270km. The first section El Creel to Bahuichivo (100 km) is a pretty nice road with a new tarmac.
Then, to Cerocahui (15 km) the road is worse but still tarmac. The section between Cerocahui and Choix is an adventure or nightmare. The segment to Rio El Fuerte is extremely tough, 100% of stony road with small, medium, big and huge stones only. A couple of years ago I have crossed Africa twice (from Europe to Cape Town and back), ridden on famous Congo and Cameroon roads, Angola, dirty roads of western Tanzania and epic Isolo-Moyale road in Kenya.
Based on my experience I have to rank (the most challenging roads category) the CC road as a top 1 road without any doubts.
For this 165 km I have used the second gear maybe twice, maybe three times but in total for no more than 1 km. The 1st gear ride all the time. Incredible uphill and downhill rides, I have seen one such uphill grade in Tanzania only. The loose stones all the time, very sharp curves. There are a few quarries on the road so you have to be careful because of tipper truck drivers they don’t expect any traffic on their road. No other traffic on the road.
I have been in Bahuichivo at 2PM (it’s definitely too late), reached Choix at 10:30 PM without any breaks on the road (exc. some foto stops only). My main concern was if the river (about 1 km before the Rio El Fuerte) is doable on the motorbike – no bridge. I have asked a few locals on the road getting contradictory info. Someone told me the river level is definitely too high, someone said that river is pretty low. In June almost every day there are thunderstorms on the road. I got it twice. The first storm was with very heavy rain, I had to stop for a while even, the second one was easier. It took about 3,5h to get to the Rio El Fuerte, the first river to cross wasn’t too deep, about 40 cm only with the stony bottom. If you don’t meet the rain the last 2km to the Rio El Fuerte can be pretty fast, as stones disappeared suddenly and smooth, clayey segment begins. It my case after the two thunderstorm this part of road was like skating rink. 3 or 4 times my rear wheel tried to overtake my bike.
When I crossed the Rio El Fuerte I thought it’s done, a big mistake!!. The next part of the road (about 30-40 km) has less stones but a lot of clay and mud. There was a very heavy rain about 1 hour earlier so the road was extremely slippery, again with very sharp uphill and downhill rides. A few times I was very close to my bike fall. Stones begin when to road departs from the river, again sharp up and downhills. The worst points are 4 or 5 rivers (depends on the weather) you have to cross, all with the clay bottom. Very challenging, especially the last one (quite deep and double streams).
When you cross the Rio El Fuerte you are entering the infamous Sinaloa state, home for many drugs cartels. You can find a post at HU about one biker, he was killed on this road segment by cartels two years ago if I remember correctly. Was I scared then? frankly speaking - yes I was. Especially when after the dusk, the strange 4WDs with black screens passed me a few times. There are no villages on the road on the Sinaloa site so what was the destination for these 4WDs?
Finally everything ended well, there was no accommodation in Choix so I had to ride the next 50 km in the night to El Fuerte, with the road slalom between the walking cows and badly marked roadworks area. Found the bad after 11 PM. The tarmac road begins about 5 km before Choix.
I’m riding F800 GS with a heavy bags and panniers attached, so this road is like a cutoff point for such bike. Having light, smaller enduro bike it would be easier. Definitely no option for any cruiser bike.
Anyone who wants to cross CC has to depart from Bahuichivo at 10 AM at least.
There are 2 hotels between Cerocahui and Rio El Fuerte, the next one in Choix.
I hope this report could useful for those who want to taste the CC crossing road 
Crossing date: 2016\07\03
Enjoy

Did something similar from Batopilas to Los Mochis via Choix in 2007, zero planning, I just noticed a dirt road heading in the direction of the coast and asked a vendor if it went to Los Mochis. My GPS was being temperamental that day too. Scenery was just amazing, one of my favorite parts of my trip actually. Hard going in places on the GS1150 but was worth it once I got my cerveza at the other end

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Mike


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