Darien gap, how to make it through?

[Alex Rubtsov]

Hello, just trying a route planning. How can I make it through with motorcycle? Are there any directions from Yaviza towards Colombia by land? Any problems with authorities, bandits or something else except mosquitos, snakes, gorillas and the other jungle stuffs?

Alex

[Redboots]

Maybe you should read this

Darien gap - Lonely Planet travel forum


John

[MikeMike]

Ask Helge of 10 years on two wheels.

[Alex Rubtsov]

ok, thanks. it seems delusion. still no roads there. it remained only to decide between the sailboat or cargo ship.

[anaconda moto]

Thanks Redboots,

that is a intresting link.
A must read for anyone thinking of passing the darien gap!

.

[DougieB]

a while ago, and by bicycle, but interesting:

Crossing The Darien Gap By Bicycle Ian Hibell

[stickfigure]

When I was down there, a buddy and I spent some time researching exactly what it would take to cross the Gap on foot. We have a high danger tolerance, and I'm always deeply skeptical of advice that seems to be written for the prototypical dumb tourist.

Nevertheless, after talking to a number of locals (including some that volunteered to guide us) and spending some time in a couple Darién villages south of Yaviza, we decided against the trip.

The first thing is that the danger level varies considerably with time. The FARC is not nearly as strong as they once were, but they're getting desperate - in the previous two weeks of my visit, they had crossed into Panamanian territory twice to hold up general stores. Desperate, hungry people with guns. But that was two years ago - it might be more quiet now.

We had a fantastic time going into the jungle by boat on two occasions; one a couple hours in to a village that was throwing a big party, and another about four hours in to Union Choco where we were a guest of the regional judge (who we had met at the party). Unfortunately the morning after our first night in UC (staying in the hut that Trujillo used to use when he helicoptered into UC "to think"), a couple Panamanian soldiers knocked on our door at 6am and informed us that they had orders to "take us to Yaviza". No more information, the judge had no idea what was going on, and phone calls to Yaviza (from the single phone in town) could shed no more light on the subject.

When we got back to Yaviza, we found the Panamanian army mobilizing in secret - they were basically starting a war and didn't want us in the way. UC was pretty far from the front line but apparently there was a CIA advisor present who didn't want any Americans seeing him. Shrug.

So... this is how it is. If you try to cross the gap, you have to hide from *everyone* - the FARC, the drug smugglers, the Panamanians, and hell, maybe even the CIA. It might be super dangerous, it might be just mildly dangerous, but there's no way to tell until there are guns pointed at you. It just wasn't worth the risk.

I will say, though, that we had a fantastic time going to Darién villages. It really feels like the wild west down there; a strange mix of huts on stilts, topless natives, cockfights, and haggling over how many gallons of gasoline it will take to get upriver. One of the highlights of my year on the road. Just go to Yaviza and ask what's going on. If you're lucky you can catch a cheap ride on a boat hauling ice or .

Jeff

[markharf]

I have friends who walked the Darien in the late seventies. Things were different then. I don't know anyone who'd try it now, much less with a motorbike.

There is a truism in adventurous activities which states that no matter how clueless you are, you get away with most stuff you do, most of the time. It's the small percentage which is worrisome. If there's a 95% chance you'll survive with only minor injury or indignity, is this an acceptable risk? If you do it and survive, does that mean it's ok to do it again and again because it's obviously safe? Does that mean it's ok to go on the internet and proclaim it safe, because after all you did it and lived to tell the tale?

I've done lots of 95% safe stuff in my life. Personally, I find that the 5% possibility that I won't make it home looms rather larger than it used to, and I've learned to play it a lot safer than I used to. YMMV.

Edit to add: none of this is meant as a criticism of the preceding post. I'm just jealous.

Mark

[ClaudeNfat]

that may be of interest. I haven't called so I don't know if they take mc and how much.