Hi,

I just wanted to share my bad experience with crossing these borders, or more specifically leaving Honduras. I should add that I have now crossed 10 borders and my only problem occurred at the Honuras border, and thousands cross the Honduran border every month without a problem... just to put this in perspective. Also the problem could have been easily avoided if I had the correct paperwork for my bike, so we can start the story with the moral, make sure you have your paperwork in order :-)

I crossed from El Salvador into Honduras close to Perquin; it's an hours ride on a rough road to the border from Perquin, and then a further two hours rough riding to Marcala in Honduras where the road begins again.

There is no border control on the El Salvador side (it's disputed terratory) so there was no aduana/customs process either, I'm not returning to El Salvador so it's no problem. On the Honduras side there is both passport control and aduana/customs if you call a fella sitting at a desk with a big paper journal "aduana".

My Spanish is poor however I made three requests for importation paperwork for my bike, I produced my paperwork for El Savador, Guatemala and Mexico to help explain what I was asking for but I received the same response each time I asked "vamos, no problema" and I was waved on... I of course knew that it would be "un grande problema" when I went to leave!

When I did try to exit Honduas at Las Manos my fears were confirmed. I had thought of by passing Honduras aduana and heading straight to the Nicaragua passport control but a moment of clarity about being a repsonsible foreign visitor made me face my problem head on. Honduras asked for my paperwork, which I didn't have but I explained why and where I had crossed the border. They asked for the $42.50 fee for entering Honduras, which I paid, and they asked for an additional $20 for "road tax"... I politely refused to pay. Perhaps I should have swallowed my pride with regards to paying bribes only as an absolute last resort.

I was soon being told that I had entered Honduras illegally. I showed information in my guide book to the contrary and explained that I had videoed my border corssing and could prove that I had entered legally, which was true.

I was told I could settle the matter by paying $200 fine. I refused. Soon the amount had risen to $250 and then $300. I offered to return to the El Salvador border and sort out my paperwork but aduana said that I was in no-mans-land and could not re-enter Honduras for 72 hours; Nicaragua won't let me enter the country until my paperwork was in order. I was stuck.

I was told if I entered El Salvador they would fine me $1000 for illegally leaving the country; I pointed out that there was no customs on the El Salvador border near Perquin so I could re-enter without a problem.

I was then told that the police (in the office next to me) had the power to impound my and would fine me $1000

A Canadian also crossing the border who was Honduran by birth stepped in and attempted to rectify the problem. The officials were smiling at me whilst asking for the "fines" and my blood was starting to boil. I kept up my supermodel grimmace of a smile.

After three hours of arguing I was told that I could leave, what re-enter Honduras to rectify the problem? No, go on to Nicaragua.

No bribe was paid but the officials pocked my $42.50 official fee having not given me my paperwork. I did however have my passport back as well as my liberty!

So I'm writing this to warn you:

1. Make sure your paperwork is in order. Mine wasn't and I was therefore comiting an offence which left me open to corruption

2. If you're coming from El Salvador and heading to Nicaragua via Honduras don't cross the border at Perquin. You will not get the correct paperwork, although you will have an adventure

3. If you have comitted an offence keep calm and cool, keep smiling even though you don't want to.

4. Don't be a clumsy bumbling fool like me

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I've just posted a video of my experience on YouTube if you want to see how it all transpired

YouTube - Brainrotting: Episode 9 - Corruption Electric Shock & Darien Gap, BMW F650 GS adventure motorcycling